Sump Plumbing Help...OVERFLOW???

[GeoB]

I think you have all the info you need, but since it sounds critical that you get it right the first time I’ll restate some things and add my 2 cents.

Like was said before, add water to the sump through the tank, letting it go through the overflow to the sump. This way your tank will be at or just below its operating level and you can check your siphon breaks on the return lines to make sure they are at or just above the tank waterline. You can also check to make sure the drain lines from the overflow to the sump are not leaking or anything.

Fill your skimmer to its operating level before filling your sump.

Have on hand plenty of towels and an easy way to remove water from the tank. Probably won't need them, but better safe than sorry.

Make sure you can turn the return pump on and off easily while you are first setting up. I use a surge protector power strip within easy reach so I can just flip the switch rather than grabbing a plug with a wet hand. Watch the tank level closely at first and be ready to turn the pump off if the tank is about to overflow. If you do have to shut it off, IMMEDIATELY watch the sump level. If your returns don’t break siphon, your sump might over flow. If it looks like this might happen, turn the pump back on and start removing water from the system. You may have to turn the pump on and off a few times to keep the tank or the sump from overflowing while you are removing water.

When setting up, don’t add water to the sump while the return pump is running. While the pump is running there needs to be enough empty volume in the sump to catch all of the back flow when the return pump is turned off. It is very tempting to add water to the sump if the pump starts to run dry and make a lot of noise, but if you add too much you will get an overflow when the pump turns off.

It is a little difficult to get u-tube siphons fully primed. As long as they are mostly primed and there is enough flow, they usually fix themselves in a minute or so, but your tank level may be a little higher and your sump level a little lower during this short period. Jostling them a little can help get the last of the air out.

[Mr Cob]

Thanks GeoB!!!

[crossxfire2]

Do yall have any pics of your whole return line, and overflow line? I am about to set one up, too!

[erikharrison]

I did it easy, plastic tubing from HD. The kind used for beer bongs The overflow uses spa flex, looks like an old vacuum hose.

[crossxfire2]

I did it easy, plastic tubing from HD. The kind used for beer bongs The overflow uses spa flex, looks like an old vacuum hose.

The see-through kind? Also, did you connect your return line to pvc? My return will have to travel up and above the back of the tank, and dump into the top of the water line because my tank is not drilled. What would be the best way of going about doing this?

So, I will have my siphon box, which re-starts if the power were to turn back on after a power outage, right? Then I use any old plastic (the correct diameter, of course) tubing from Home Depot to drain the water into the sump. For the return, I connect the tubing to the pump, and the other end to some pvc which can hang on the back of the display, which will dump the water bank into the display? Of course, I will drill the holes that draw air into the line in case of a power outage.. is this all correct? Are there any flaws?

[GeoB]

I don’t know if it is the best way, but here’s how I’ve done it. For going over the top of the tank with the return line you can use two 90 degree pvc elbows to make a U and maybe a third to direct the return water horizontally into the tank. You don’t need to glue the third one which will allow you to adjust the direction of the flow in the tank. Or instead of the third elbow you can use a ¾” threaded adapter and a loc-line. Water doesn’t like to turn, so to maximize flow I usually go up a size for the elbows (if the return line is ¾” then I’ll use 1” elbows). Between the U and the return pump you can use a hose adapter then clear vinyl tubing. You can use all hard pvc, but this sometimes creates vibration/noise issues. Using a return line that is a size or two larger than the pump outlet will increase flow a lot (if your pump has a ½” outlet, use a ¾” or maybe even a 1” return line). Use hose clamps for all of your hose connections and pvc tape for all threaded connections.

For the drain lines I’ve used the spa flex as well as hard pvc and flexible pvc and combinations of all three. It might depend on your setup as for what will work best.

The overflow siphon should stay fully primed when flow stops. If it doesn’t there is a serious problem with the setup. Be sure to check this by turning the return pump off and back on again.

[Bill S]

Speaking of hose clamps, don't use the ones from HD or Autozone, etc. Go to a Marine or Boating store and buy them there. They are the same price, but the marine clamps have a stainless steel screw in them, rather than chrome plated mild steel. It may take 6 months, but you WILL notice a difference! In a year, the HD ones will be completely rust encrusted.

Oh yeah, and as noted above, go up a size with hard plumbing. A jump to 1" from 3/4" gives you twice the volume (the piR2 thing...), which helps overcome the losses in elbows.

[crossxfire2]

So I can obtain hose adapters from Home depot I assume. Am I correct? Also, is it bad to use clear tubing for the overflow? Is spaflex quieter maybe?

[Mr Cob]

So I can obtain hose adapters from Home depot I assume. Am I correct? Also, is it bad to use clear tubing for the overflow? Is spaflex quieter maybe?

If light will get to the clear hose then it will begin to build up algae which could slow your flow over a period of time.

[caferacermike]

Even go so far as to impress and confuse the guy at West Marine by asking/demanding 316L stainless steel. Grades 303, 304, 308 are all typical consumer grades of stainless, they all still contain iron. Not alot but enough to start the oxidization, rusting, process. Once it begins it will spread like cancer and eat away at the clamp. 316L is a medical grade, implantable, stainless that all of the iron has been blown out during the casting. By leaving in a small amount of iron it makes the metal easier to machine. Stainless kitchen knives are generally 304ss as it is easier to sharpen. It does not hold it's edge as long as it could but the ease of the end user to sharpen is a larger benefit. How many of your stainless knives and utensils come out of the sink with rust spots after a while? Quite a few of them. That expensive ss chef knife you bought that sat in the bottom of the sink for a few days seems to get little rust spots all over, those are where the iron bits remained.