Filtration can be done with sumps, canister filters or HOB filters, in addition to a protein skimmer. Keep in mind your filtration will need to be capable of handling the large bioload seahorses will place on your tank. A sump that is at least 30% the size of your tank works well. A good protein skimmer, rated for 2-3 times your tank volume is recommended. They are designed to remove dissolved organics compounds, which seahorses produce in large quantities. It is beyond the scope of this discussion to go into detail on the efficacy of different filtration systems. Filtration is a emerging topic that seems to change constantly. Bottom line is your filtration system will be dependent on the amount of water changes you are willing to do.
Tanks can be set up with either a sand bed or barebottom. There are pros and cons to either system. The advantage to a barebottom tank is it is much easier to see and remove any excess waste. Tanks with sand beds are aesthetically more appealing, however they are harder to clean. If you decide to go with a sand bed use a fine grain sand to help reduce the amount of waste that gets trapped in the substrate.
Lighting comes down to a matter or personal preference. Two things to keep in mind are the amount of heat lights generate and seahorses will require shaded areas they can hide in. LED’s seem to work the best since they run coolest.
Aquascaping should provide a number of areas for hitching and hiding. When planning your tank décor remember that seahorses will readily move between and through objects placed in their tank. Decorations like roman columns or plastic chains are just large enough for some seahorses to get their head in, however their bodies will not fit. Sadly, this has precipitated the death of more than one individual. It is best to set up a tank with areas for free swimming and other areas where they can hitch or hide. This can be achieved by placing any rockwork more toward the center of the tank and leaving open areas on the sides and front. Avoid setting up a tank with live rock that may contain aiptasia, bristle worms, hydroids, crabs, etc. Starting with dry rock is the safest way to go.
A well aerated tank is also essential due to their rudimentary gill structure. A opened ended airline works well for increasing oxygenation in the tank and provides another hitch for them. You will also find they seem to enjoy a good bubble massage. Many people also use strategically placed airlines to prevent the build up of detritus around rock work.
Heaters are not required in a seahorse tank as they do better cooler water. In reality keeping your temperature down can become a challenge in S. Texas. A chiller is not essential for tropical species as long as you have other means of cooling your tank. Fans will typically reduce your tank temperature by 2-3’. Keep in mind, erectus have been found as far north as Nova Scotia in some very cool waters.
Feeding
Captive bred seahorses are already trained to eat frozen mysis shrimp, with the exception of dwarf seahorses which will require a continuous supply of live food. Hikari, PE and SFB are three brands that are readily available. Live foods can help supplement their diet as long as they are disease free. Common live snacks for larger seahorses include mysis shrimp, ghost shrimp, peppermint shrimp and amphipods. Copepods and baby brine shrimp are exclusively for fry or dwarfs. Brine shrimp have very little nutritional value and do need to be enriched if they are going to be fed to seahorses. When feeding adult seahorses, give them just enough that they will consume all the food in 30-45 minutes. It is easier to add more food to a tank than it is to remove uneaten food. Adults should be fed twice a day and younger seahorses at least 3-4 times a day.
Potential Problems
Common signs of disease include rapid respiration, lack of eye movement, attempting to ingest food without success aka. “weak snick”, loss of appetite, lethargy, positive buoyancy, discoloration or lumps on the body or tail and abnormal behavior, such as hanging upside down or laying on the substrate. Many of these problems can be resolved without antibiotic therapy simply by improving your water quality and reducing your tank temperature.
Mixing different genera of syngnathids can prove fatal to all tank occupants. Captive bred pipefish are not readily available in the US and normally require a source of live food, as well as deworming. They can also harbor pathogens your CB seahorses have never seen.
Mixing different species of seahorses is also not recommended. They can carry different pathogens that they are resistant to, but can prove fatal to a non resistant individual.
Avoid aggressive/fast swimming fish, things with stinging tentacles, organisms that snap shut like clams or have large pincers like crabs and some shrimp.
Temperature spikes can prove fatal to seahorses. Living in S. Texas you may want to consider adding a chiller to your tank. Seahorses handle cooler temperatures much better than heat.
You purchased a pair of female seahorses and one of them develops a pouch. Fry are now inevitable. Below is a photo of a few newborn ingens delivered by a single mail.
If you encounter any problems with your seahorses please contact me ASAP. I would much rather respond early and find nothing wrong, than see someone waiting to long and I can no longer help them.
Summary
Syngnathids are a hardy family of fish and when kept under optimal conditions can live for years. There is a great deal of misinformation in regards to their husbandry which can shorten their lives. It is best to start with healthy individuals from a known source. Tank requirements vary from one species to another and need to be designed to accommodate their specific needs.
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