Auto Top-off Set Ups

[Big_Pun]

yes the aqualift will siphon, read that and also was warned by a felllow maast member the other day when he was showing me his ato system

[Kristy]

Wow, Allan... I keep reading your reference to a gallon a day for evaporation loss. We use fans blowing across the surface of the water year round for temp control, with more fans during the 9 months of summer blowing across the sump. Our evaporation is about 3 - 5 gallons a day, depening on the season (5 in the summer) and we only have a little more water volume than you do. Interesting... what do you do for temp control? Do you have any temp issues?

[wkada]

Something like this would control your RO/DI reservior, hooked up to a simple timer.

Specifications

How it works:
The solenoid is an electronic valve capable of handling the higher pressure of reverse osmosis (RO) or city water system. The valve opens when powered, and remains closed when not energized. A topoff controller is normally required to use a solenoid, however some people have setup a timer to control the solenoid to open for a few minutes per day. A solenoid is commonly placed on the 1/4" water line between your RO water filter and your tank. They can also be used to fill a topoff reservoir or for water changes.
Model:Polypropylene Solenoid Valve. Normally closed (open when powered). 120VAC .09 Amps Internal components are saltwater safe (plastic and stainless steel). Quick connect 1/4" OD tubing fittings are included.
Temperature and Pressure:90 PSI Max. 120 degrees F Max. Click Here for more informationFlow Direction:Direction matters! Connect your RO system to the high pressure input side labeled "IN" on solenoid. Connecting the solenoid backwards will cause water to slowly leak through the valve.Dimensions:Length 2.75", Width 2", Height 2.5"Cord Types and Lengths:2 prong power cord 18 Gauge, 3 feet in length. Solenoid leads approximatly 18" in length. Connection is soldered and double heatshrinked.Solenoid Valve
$34

[allan]

Bingo! That solenoid is what I'm looking for on that end. Hook that up to my RODI to fill my staging barrel. Then my ATO can be supplied by the barrel to the sump when the float valve opens/closes dependent on water level.

Karin, am I seeing your float valve right? It's in your fuge? Is your return water in the same chamber as your fuge macro?

Kristy, I should have said seasonal water evap. During the winter I use heaters to keep my water up to 78-79. Water volume prevents a rapid temp swing so when the weather (or house) temperature fluctuates out of norm it's gradually felt in the tank with no worries. I have one fan in the canopy that since I've returned the tank to its current location I haven't been using because I've been far too lazy to hook it up to the timer. I used to run it an hour after and before lights on and off. My entire canopy is enclosed and the top is vented so I've very little exposed surface water in the display to contribute to water evap. I don't run a fan in the sump because my water doesn't get hot enough for that, although I used to in my 100 gallon setup.

I would like to get something that will control (instead of a timer) my heaters and fan respective to the temperature of the water. So far those units are an arm and a leg. Of course I think it's more interesting to want something I can't afford rather than to get be able to afford it outright. Makes installing it a grand event. Weird huh?

[Europhyllia]

Allan I have two float valves. Yes one is in the fuge.
It's dripping into the baffle that comes from the skimmer department. Thinking about it it may get mixed in better if I drip it into the skimmer compartment.
I had a reason for not doing that though but I forgot what it was. Maybe something about not wanting the kalk to get majorly aerated (CO2 saturation) before being added to the tank water. I'll have to look and will get back to you on that.