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Thread: RO/DI units

  1. #11
    Join Date
    10-06-2008
    Location
    San Antonio...formerly Port Aransas
    Posts
    713

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    very interesting feedback and good topic....

    good thread
    Fish

  2. #12
    Join Date
    03-28-2009
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    307

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    Quote Originally Posted by TexasRedneck View Post
    No offense taken - after all, we don't know each other, so there's no way of knowing background. I've been doing water purification and treatment since 1976 - everything from softening to ultrafiltration. I've designed and installed everything from plating shops to pharmaceutical systems. I've screwed up by the numbers, too - I am an Honors Graduate of the University of Hard Knocks!

    I currently have about 5-600 RO units out - everything from 1,000 up to 100,000 gallons per day. The RO's are commercially made (IOW, no - I don't make 'em), but I've been involved with redesign of 'em over the years. I don't say all this to boast, but rather to give you an idea as to my background and where I'm coming from - because yes - I DO tend to "overbuild". So I try to be cautious when I approach something designed for residential use, and remember that it's not made to be nearly as robust as a commercial unit. That's why I said that while I don't like 'em, pretty much everyone uses 'em.

    I see a lot of them fail - not when new, but 2-4 years down the road - because I service some residential units with the fittings on them, and I can ASSURE you that the failure rate is significant enough that they'd never go on a unit in my house - but bear in mind that I say that knowing I'd spend a good 20-30 bucks in fittings and several hours labor by the time it's over and done with. But, that's fine for ME - it's worth it. Most folks don't consider it to be worth it, and that's okay too - it's their house!

    Generally speaking, when I'm working with JG fittings and removing/replacing tubine, I replace the fitting as well. Overkill? Maybe - but remember that they seal because of an o-ring which WILL compress over time - so taking the tubing out and reinstalling it will often result in a leak, and I hate going on a "call-back"!
    OK OK ... so you've got some experience What fittings do you suggest for a home system then? The compression type fittings?

    I've looked into alternatives to JG speedfits and found that the acetal versions have higher pressure ratings, but still a single o-ring seal. The Mur-lok fittings have double o-ring seals and similar pressure ratings. I don't know about the Jaco fittings, but never really liked them because they are the compression type, though probably sturdier. What would you use in a residential setting? I have two RO units under two sinks in the house and I'm thinking about swapping to Mur-loks just as a preventative measure.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    06-23-2009
    Location
    New Braunfels, TX
    Posts
    7

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    I prefer the Parker "Fast-N-Tite" fittings. Jaco's I avoid. None of 'em are perfect, but the Parker's I routinely run at 2-300 psi without a problem.

  4. #14

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    Back to the original question - I'd not purposely buy a system with a pump. Get a system w/o one, and if needed, you can always add one later.

    Russ
    SPONSOR

    RO and RODI Systems and Supplies
    www.BuckeyeHydro.com for all your water purification needs
    Info@BuckeyeHydro.com

  5. #15

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    Great information here guys. Ive been hobbying for 1.5 years and am currently thinking of an R/O system. Never thought about putting one in my garage! Is there any particular type of system that you could recommend? There seems to be as many types of systems as there are chemical testing kits. Ive got a 125 gallon Reef system, but hoping to move up to 200 in the near future. How many stages should i be looking for and for that matter, which brand seems to last? Currently im doing about 30-40 gallons of water change every 1.5 weeks. I know the biggest draw back is the waste water that the system rejects. How do you guys recycle that into usable water and not just waste it?
    Thanks for any info you can give to a somewhat nube.

  6. #16

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    Rather than put it in your garage, I'd rather see you put it in your basement, if that is an option.

    Russ
    SPONSOR

    RO and RODI Systems and Supplies
    www.BuckeyeHydro.com for all your water purification needs
    Info@BuckeyeHydro.com

  7. #17
    Join Date
    06-23-2009
    Location
    New Braunfels, TX
    Posts
    7

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    There's a ton of 'em out there - check w/Sam's for one that's pretty inexpensive and fairly user-friendly. I sell 'em - but not as cheaply as Sam's does, and what they have should do the job for you. The water waste is simply the nature of the beast, until you get into larger (and more expensive - $500 to 1k) units which will allow you to recover up to 75% of the feed water. With either one, a softener is a good idea - but with the high recovery units, a softener is absolutely necessary on water in the San Antonio/Austin area.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by BuckeyeFieldSupply View Post
    Rather than put it in your garage, I'd rather see you put it in your basement, if that is an option.

    Russ
    Not too many houses in South Texas have basements Russ....about 99% do not.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    02-10-2009
    Location
    San Antonio, Bulverde Village
    Posts
    8,057

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    I've been thinking of getting a water softner, thought I had one turned out it was just the loop to tie one into.

    The water softner, would that make the RODI unit more efficient?
    Reefing 210
    Multi-Genera

  10. #20
    Join Date
    03-28-2009
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    307

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    Quote Originally Posted by allan View Post
    I've been thinking of getting a water softner, thought I had one turned out it was just the loop to tie one into.

    The water softner, would that make the RODI unit more efficient?
    RO membranes last longer when there aren't calcium carbonate salts clogging them ...

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