Overflows

[Mr_Cool]

I have to throttle back my return pump (a Mag 7.5) because the two built-in drains are only 1". I thought of using a HOB overflow along w/ the built-ins, and then I could open the return pump all the way. But, I don't want to have the overflow box inside the tank.

Is there a problem using one of the existing built-in overflow's inside part, along with a U-tube and an outside part of an overflow to accomplish what I want?

(Does this even make sense? I know what I'm thinking. I just don't know if I'm saying it right.)

[hobogato]

that will work fine. you just have to build the outside part of a normal HOB overflow and silicone it to the back of the tank.

[rz1a]

i put a T right after my pump, split it so it goes back to the sump and the other goes to the DT. both have ball valves so in case it was split too much i can throttle back the one going to the sump or the other way.

im using flexible hosing so im not sure if it would be easy for you to do it or not

[caferacermike]

I'm completely boggled as to how 2x 1" suction tubes cannot handle a Mag 7.5. I hate to say that I think there is something wrong with your plumbing. I run a single Eheim 1262 on 1 1" suction line, that's about 800-900GPH through a single 1" drain and I could still go larger.

[Mr_Cool]

I'm completely boggled as to how 2x 1" suction tubes cannot handle a Mag 7.5. I hate to say that I think there is something wrong with your plumbing. I run a single Eheim 1262 on 1 1" suction line, that's about 800-900GPH through a single 1" drain and I could still go larger.

Oh, it's a Mag 9.5. Does that make a difference, Mike? My plumbing has some 90's and tee's in it because of the way I built the stand. I know that will slow things down a bit. All I know is, if I open the ball valve all the way, I get water hitting the glass brace in the center of the tank. It WILL overflow if I don't cut it back a bit.

[kaiser]

Oh, it's a Mag 9.5. Does that make a difference, Mike? My plumbing has some 90's and tee's in it because of the way I built the stand. I know that will slow things down a bit. All I know is, if I open the ball valve all the way, I get water hitting the glass brace in the center of the tank. It WILL overflow if I don't cut it back a bit.

I would try to redo the plumbing and eliminate all the elbows. Use some flexible line instead of rigid pipe. Keep in mind that the drainline has to be able to vent, without it you will slow it way down. Do you use any kind of durso pipe? If that hole is too small you'll slow it way down.

[Mr_Cool]

Okay. Here are some pics of the plumbing.

The first one is the drain from the left rear corner overflow. I couldn't come down too much farther because of the cross brace. This pipe (w/ the ball valve) continues on to the next pic. I needed the two 90's to drop down under another cross brace. The third and fourth pic are pretty much the same thing just on the right side of the tank.

I didn't get pics of it, but (you can kind of see it in the fourth pic) the right side tee's off to another ball valve where I can adjust the flow to my fuge area. The rest of that pipe leads to the left half of a 75 gallon sump/fuge. (The fuge is the right side of the 75.) The last pic shows how the water flows from the left half of the 75 to a 55 gallon which is used as a true sump. My return pump is in the 55.

I know it seems confusing. Should I scrap the whole thing and go with a more efficient design. Or, do I really just need another drain?

[caferacermike]

Well as a guide most dual 1" overflows are rated for 1,200GPH.

[kaiser]

Do you have a overall picture of this set-up? It's hard to get the whole picture with just a few detail pics.

[Mr_Cool]

The tank is so long, I can't get a good pick of all the plumbing. That is, I don't have enough room on the sides of the tank to be able to get all of the plumbing in. (I can't back up anymore because the walls are in the way.)