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Thread: Tentitively optimistic (seahorse babies)

  1. #61

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    It's an interesting suggestion for the coffee filter. I will run it past people at the org as well to see if they also think it could keep hydroids out.

    Since I saw hydroids in the baby tank several weeks ago, I think it is likely that I still have some after seeing the sudden death of some of my biggest horses. I feel that I got past most of the hurdles with these guys. The only thing left was getting them on mysis and keeping everything else status quo.

    The only thing with starting completely over is...it is starting completely over. The tank would have to cycle again, etc. If I can keep my cycled tank, it would really make things easier. I am keeping the filter section in the same tank. I have found that any drains, pumps, filters and the like ALWAYS wind up sucking up some babies! :( My algae is wrapped in bridal veil, so no amphipods are escaping.

    I actually don't change the water all that often. Once a week is generally what I have been doing. I assumed that since I have been using the main tank water each time, it has kept stress to a minimum. That is, I haven't seen any stress from water changes.

    It is definitely a challenge to keep these guys. I am proud of myself so far--especially keeping the reidi mix for over 5 weeks! They are REALLY difficult. Other than this new development, things have gone pretty well. Hopefully, I will be able to remedy the situation and have more success.

    I have learned that raising seahorses is kind of like raising children: You can read all of the information you can get your hands on, but you are never certain of what will work with YOUR babies! There is definitely a learning curve. The more tweaking that I do, the better things seem to go.
    The moment his HEAD is in view, hit it with the LIVE ROCK!

  2. #62
    erikharrison Guest

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    Yeah, as you can tell, I like this thread. Coffe filters won't leach any garbage into the water either since they are food grade. Is it possible that there are dyes or anything in that bridal veil material? It possibly could have leached into the tank giving you all of those problems in the beginning?

  3. #63

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    Another post from seahorse.org worth viewing:


    QUOTE(barbaloot @ Dec 28 2007, 08:36 AM)
    eeamoe, I think you have some good advice. I will panacur very soon. Where can I find Panacur? I didn't see any on DanU's site and haven't found any at my LFS.

    Dan carries Fenbendazole/Panacur in both granulated and liquid form. The liquid form is easier to work with.
    http://www.seahorsesource.com/cgi-bi....cgi?id=300101

    I would advise against treating the adult's display tank with the medication unless you don't mind risking your snails and any other invertebrates that may be present. The medication can also linger in the rock, sand, and equipment making the display inhospitable to inverts for quite sometime following treatment.




    QUOTE(barbaloot @ Dec 28 2007, 08:36 AM)
    Would it be worth a shot to drain the baby tank, bleach it, then put the sand, etc back in and fill with fresh saltwater? I imagine the sand, etc would have hydroids and would just reintroduce them? When new babies are born, will they continue to bring over hydroids (assuming this is the problem)? Even if I move the daddy to the baby tank prior to giving birth, wouldn't he bring them over, too? How do I stop the cycle? Will I have to treat my display??

    As long as you use water from the adult's main display tank you will reintroduce hydroids into the nusery. Using water from the main display introduces many potentially harmful microscopic organisms — such as hydroids, ciliates and bacteria — into the nusery tank.




    QUOTE(barbaloot @ Dec 28 2007, 08:36 AM)
    I would rather not risk the fresh water dip. Can I treat the tank with the babies in it safely? After treatment, do I bleach the tank or just do a massive water change?

    You can use Fenbendazole/Panacur in the fry tanks with the fry present. As long as it is properly dosed it will have no ill effect on the fry. Are there inverts in your fry tank?




    QUOTE(barbaloot @ Dec 28 2007, 08:36 AM)
    I just got a new UV sterilizer for my main display. Will this kill hydroids?

    The UV will only kill hydroids in their free-swimming stage and only if they happen to go through it. The following link will take you to a generalized diagram of the lifecycle of a hydroid. http://www.palaeos.com/Invertebrates...elia_cycle.gif




    QUOTE(barbaloot @ Dec 28 2007, 08:36 AM)
    Since I have the live sand, rock, and algae in the baby tank, will it stay cycled with a 100% water change with fresh saltwater?

    Yes. Nitrifying bacteria live on surfaces rather than in the water column. As long as there is an ammonia source such as fry waste, present in the tank, the bacteria will survive and the tank will remain "cycled".
    The moment his HEAD is in view, hit it with the LIVE ROCK!

  4. #64

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    Here is my newly revised plan:

    Set up the 65 gallon with fresh saltwater, sterile live sand (in tubs again for easy cleaning), dry base rock (make my own aragocrete), macro algae that has been freshwater dipped.

    Add biospira and a purchased culture of pods.

    Sponge filter plus other airlines if needed. Divider (horses on "bare" side again) and colorful fake coral hitches.

    I will put my older horses in this tank before treating the 10 gallon baby tank with panacur. I know it is taking a risk of spreading the hydroids, but I really think there are only a few present in the baby tank (if that is the problem at all--I'm still not convinced in any one direction) and the likelyhood of them being on the surviving babies would be slim to none. After moving the babies, I will bomb the baby tank (10 gallon) with panacur, do a water change at the end of the treatment and add a package of biospira. This should get the tank ready for the next batch. If I add a culture of pods afterwards, will they survive?

    From now on:

    1) Use only freshly mixed saltwater (no "cycled" tank water)
    2) Use only materials that have never been exposed to another tank
    3) Use 10 gallon panacured tank for newborns (0-5 weeks)
    4) Try to move pregnant male to baby tank shortly before giving birth
    5) Keep a strong culture of pods going in tanks at all times

    ---------------------------------------

    Update:

    Water change today--only freshly made sw. Herd consists of 2 Barb cross (7 weeks old), 8 Reidi cross (5 weeks old), 14 Reidi cross (2 days old).
    I have the newborns in a breeding net thingy hanging on the side of the tank. I would say the holes are only slightly bigger than that in cheesecloth. This seems to be working well to keep them from getting into things they shouldn't (a play pen--if you will), and it is much easier to feed them without competition from the other horses. Also, the water flow seems to be good. However, most of them do not look too healthy. I think going through the filter and getting caught in the algae may have added stress that is taking a toll. Also, I don't believe I have the same strong copepod population I did when starting out the other reidi cross group. I believe being able to eat at anytime around the clock either freshly hatched bbs, live copepods (enriched daily with DT's), refrigerated rotifers, frozen rotifers, and frozen bbs gave them the best chance at survival. By the way things look, I don't expect this batch to make it. :( I should have another batch in 2-3 weeks though. My lovers were at it again this morning.

    I've had pretty good success so far. Hopefully, the revisions will make it fool proof (yeah, right!!). :hysterical:
    The moment his HEAD is in view, hit it with the LIVE ROCK!

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