DI life expectancy

[Bill S]

I'm not sure why a water softener would be hard on an RO/DI unit. I've had my first one for about a year, and I just replaced the DI resin. It's been hooked up to my icemaker too - classic on/off cycling. I still had nearly 0 tds when I replaced it. I pay $10 a bag for the resin. Also remember that SOME manufacturers (Coralife) don't use the expensive (correct) resin.

[duc]

OK so it looks like I did everything right and that maybe the softener is shortening the life of the DI.

bstreep where is it you purchase you resin from? I can find it for $15 on-line but as you know $10 local is better
Clif

[discuspro]

I know softeners exchange Ca and Mg ions for Na and K. Not sure if the softener is causing all the trouble but I do remember living in a house with a water softener and finding all of the glasses that I drank from became really scratchy and rough feeling after a few years of washing. Pretty sure Na is filtered easily by a good working membrane. Check this article it also has a link telling how to recharge DI resin, but it might not be that easy unless you know what solutions they are using.:

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.php

This might be arguable but I just found this quote from this link, "If you have especially hard water, you might consider running it through a water softener before the RO/DI filter. That process removes calcium and magnesium by swapping sodium for them. While aquarists are not generally worried about calcium and magnesium in their source water, they can foul RO membranes by forming calcium and magnesium carbonate precipitates inside it. That precipitation will reduce flow and eventually make the membrane unusable."

Maybe I should retract my first statement, but all of this just seems weird.

Also, found this quote, which I've always wondered about myself when it comes to silicate, "It may also be desirable to have two DI cartridges in series if there is a lot of silica or other easily penetrating problem ions in the RO permeate."

[Bill S]

The reason why you have etched glasses is that you are using too much detergent. The recommendation with a water softener is 1/4 to 1/2 the normal amount.

I buy mine online from www.aquasafe.com.

[jim1000]

Check to see if your water system uses cloren(sp), or clorimen(sp) which san antonio did some months ago. T normal carbon filters does not work for this, and eats up di cartriges. Purly h2o carries this carbon, call and talk to the owner.

Jim

[duc]

Brian (the owner) has been more than helpful I was just feeling around to see if I was the only person who has had such a short life. He said he sells medical grade which last longer, main difference is it doesn't chg colors so I have to use a TDS meter (which I do) to monitor it.

At what ppm should I quit using my water? Is 8ppm OK, borderline, or bad water?
Clif

[matt]

8ppm TDS is pretty low; I wouldn't worry about using that water at all. I used to have a Kent R.O./D.I. filter and could never get TDS below 10ppm. I've produced about 30 gallons so far with my purelyH20 filter and the D.I. has changed color on about 2".

[duc]

8ppm TDS is pretty low; I wouldn't worry about using that water at all. I used to have a Kent R.O./D.I. filter and could never get TDS below 10ppm. I've produced about 30 gallons so far with my purelyH20 filter and the D.I. has changed color on about 2".

That sounds just like mine 2" real fast then the whole thing withing 70-80 gal's more and now I have lots of white after a total of 120-130ish. Interesting I wonder if he had a bad batch since two of us have the same results or if this is normal, I am also curious how yours will be doing in 90 more.
Clif