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Thread: 300 RR Setup

  1. #11
    Join Date
    01-26-2005
    Location
    McAllen, RGV
    Posts
    1,847

    Default RE: 300 RR Setup

    The glass that glass cages uses is not the real starrphire. Its just low in iron. Good luck with the tank. I agree with Gary on having someone local build the acrylic overflow.
    Jerry

    Trying to get back in the hobby... Will be seting up my 75g rr soon

  2. #12
    Join Date
    12-09-2002
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    1,998

    Default RE: 300 RR Setup

    I would suggest you do a lot of reading; here, on reefcentral, and a few books. You could start with Shimek's "The coral reef aquarium" which is a small book aimed at the beginner, it's great, then move on to Anthony Calfo's books. Believe me, the more reading you do, the fewer headaches you'll have.

    Your biggest equipment purchases will be lighting, water movement, and filtration. You'll want to thoroughly research each one before you buy anything. So many people in this hobby, including me, have put together systems without solving the various issues completely, and usually that means buying something, which then means you need to get something else to solve a new problem, etc....

    I have a couple of suggestions about lighting and the other equipment, but you should definitely just take these and others as directions for researching. A tank that size will cost alot of money, and you only want to buy things once if possible. Anyhow, think about 4 MH bulbs, either 400W mogule base, preferably with luminarc reflectors, or 250W double ended mini pendents. They might have 400W DE fixtures out now; if so, look into those. The mini pendents are the easiest to deal with and will generate the least heat. The money you spend on those might be saved by avoiding a chiller.

    For flow, the sequence pump is great, but if you're keeping stony corals you'll want more. An easy solution would be a few of the tunze powerheads; get the biggest ones they make. They have to sit in the tank, but they'll save you a bundle on electricity down the road.

    For filtration, you should consider a big protein skimmer; I personally feel that the big beckett skimmers are really hard to beat and are more powerful than the recirculating "euroreef" type, but that's my opinion and others will disagree. Think about a beckett skimmer that's about 5 ft tall with a couple of beckett injectors. You won't regret owning one.

    Of course you'll want to plan out yur plumbing with a large sump and figure out to the best of your ability how you'll route all the pipes, etc, before the tank arrives. If you can't do that, which is really understandable, you might consider not getting it drilled until you have it at home. That's assuming getting it drilled after you buy it won't void the warranty and you can get someone to come to your house to drill. If I had to guess, I'd say 4 holes for 1.5" bulkheads along the back wall, high up, would be fine for a calfo style overflow. There's lots of info about it in his book. I'd be tempted to not drill the bottom or anywhere low on the wall; a leak could be devastating. Many people do that, though, with no problems, so the choice is yours.

    Have fun!!!

  3. #13
    Join Date
    12-13-2004
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
    Posts
    587

    Default RE: 300 RR Setup

    Quote Originally Posted by GaryP
    First off, welcome to MAAST.

    Your tank sounds very similar to falcondob's here in SA. If you get a chance to get down here I would suggest contacting him and I'm sure he would be happy to let you check it out.
    I agree..Welcome to MAAST. Yes, I have a glasscages, 300gal, 96x24x30, starphire-like glass on 3 sides. This was originally going against the wall, wife turned it into a room divider, so I had to improvise.

    First, I would suggest NOT buying the furniture (hood and stand) from glass cages. It ok, but for what they charge (plus shipping), you can get something much nicer custom built. There are several MAAST members that do it. Second, if you are going to do everything under the stand, all I can say is, God Be With Thee. I did that and I still have a closet next to the tank and I am on medication. Just a heads-up. ;)

    No exactly how and where you are going to put it. Take into consideration water, electric, and, possibly even sewer when you look at placement. A 300 gallon reef/sps/lps/clam tank needs lots of electricity and lots of water. Minimally you need (IMHO) at least 1600-1800 watts (maybe more) of MH light and some actinic supplement. I have Lumenarc reflectors and that allowed me to come DOWN 200 watts and increase the amount of light in the tank. That will heat your tank pretty good, so fans and a chiller are in your future. Be prepared for utility bills you really didn't expect.

    You are getting a BIG tank. Buy a skimmer that matches it. Buy a really good one and save your self a lot of headaches. I now have a Euroreef in-sump with two sedra pumps. I wouldn't trade it for any other skimmer (maybe a little bigger Euroreef). Others will have other recommendations on a skimmer, I will stick with Euroreef. You don't want a skimmer you have to babysit.

    RO/DI, Kalk Reactor, Calcium reactor, auto top off, temp controller (or tank computer), light timers, phosban reactor. All these are probably optional for most people, but required by me. (Especially the temp controller. Talk with Richard at CB Pets about that one. Temp flucuations, I am convinced, killed a powder blue and a really great chevron tang.)

    Closed loop seems to be the way most people are going. I have two tunze 6100s. I like the flexability of the powerhead. I run a Dart return pump on two 1 1/2 drains and returns. I have a 40-50 gallon sump and a 70 gallon fuge. The fuge has made a big difference in the number of pods I have in the main tank.

    Let me know if you have any questions. If it can be screwed up, I have probably done it. (I am one of those hard-headed learners.)

    Good luck, it will be a blast!
    John
    John
    220 gal reef
    60 gal (inactive)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    10-21-2002
    Location
    Central TX
    Posts
    2,535

    Default RE: 300 RR Setup

    Basically what everyone is trying to say is there are no real cookie-cutter answers to drilling a tank or best placement of bulkheads. It all has to do with your situation/location of the tank and what you have planned for the tank as far as livestock and equipment. Once you decide on livestock (fish only or full reef), then you have to decide on equipment needs and then how you can set everything up. You will have a very difficult time setting everything up inside the stand so you need to have as much planned out beforehand. Make drawings of what will sit where and where pipes/tubing need to run. Take your time so you look at as many things as possible. It's difficult to think or plan for every little thing, but the more you do now, the easier it will be to set your tank up and the happier you will be with the end result.
    -Chris

  5. #15

    Default RE: 300 RR Setup

    Check out the Large Reef Tank forum on www.reefcentral.com

    There are lots of write-ups on there to read up on. Even those that do not have large tanks like they do, can learn alot about managing and setting up systems, just on a smaller scale.

  6. #16
    H2Ocean Guest

    Default RE: 300 RR Setup

    Thanks for everyones help

  7. #17
    Join Date
    12-13-2004
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
    Posts
    587

    Default Re: RE: 300 RR Setup

    Quote Originally Posted by H2Ocean
    Thanks for everyones help
    That is what MAAST is, and should be, all about!
    John
    220 gal reef
    60 gal (inactive)

  8. #18
    Join Date
    09-23-2003
    Location
    N.C.San Antonio
    Posts
    1,438

    Default Re: RE: 300 RR Setup

    Quote Originally Posted by gjuarez
    The glass that glass cages uses is not the real starrphire. Its just low in iron. Good luck with the tank. I agree with Gary on having someone local build the acrylic overflow.
    yep you are right...glasscages does not carry "starfire" glass , starfire is a name brand for a kind of low iron glass...if you want to pay four times the price then go for starfire, if you dont then just get low iron glass...I have seen the two side by side and could not tell the difference.

  9. #19
    H2Ocean Guest

    Default RE: Re: RE: 300 RR Setup

    I have seen them both myself and I agree

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