I agree with Ross there. The most common and fatal mistake by a newbie is rushing the tank. I would defianately give a tank atleast a good month and a half to two months before even thinking about adding a clown, and much less any kind of coral.
I agree with Ross there. The most common and fatal mistake by a newbie is rushing the tank. I would defianately give a tank atleast a good month and a half to two months before even thinking about adding a clown, and much less any kind of coral.
Have a great day Bob!
GUNS UP
Lets quit jumping down peoples throats!!!
..Its usually a matter of time. If it was wild caught, it takes them FOREVER to eat..But tank raised eat anything you throw in, some take a few days but surely eat..Wild caught maybe?
The unfortunate thing in this post is that everyone is right here, except perhaps for the assessment of bio-spira. This is due to variables not considered.
FWIW, all my clowns curtailed eating quite a bit a few days ago and they were little hogs today. We even delayed a spawn for a few days. Attibuting cycles and feeding patterns to the weather changes has lots of merit on this one. With the temperature and humidity swings, that makes a difference inside the tank too. On top of that, a tank at 76 degress will be more affected than one thats heated a little more above room temp.
Fish feeding response is influenced to a great deal by the deep ocean rotary currents. Since there is no such chart for San Antonio, who can say what the influence of that was combined with our highly variable weather pattern the past few days? The fish's feeding triggers (or lack of in this case) tell the story on that one.
Larry
INSTAR
CEO, Biologist
"Heck, the water is clear, must be good"
instar,
so the assesment that bio-spira is a waste of time is incorrect, is that what youre saying?
also, like i stated earlier, my cichlids went through something similar, that being one tank would get ich when the weather shifted in any way (like from hot to cold, cold to hot, ect ect), but it had to be somewhat mild to extreem (say, 10-20degree flux in temperature?).
anywho, my little booger is eating like usual now, and my scooter is doing great
ps - anyone got any suggestions as to what type of soap i should use, since im working at parts store where i frequently get oil n other automotive fluids on me?
i use Gojo right now, and my tank hasnt suffered one bit. id like to get something that i know is safe for tanks + gets out oil n whatnot..
Since I'm working at an automotive repair shop now, I'll try to offer some suggestions here:ps - anyone got any suggestions as to what type of soap i should use, since im working at parts store where i frequently get oil n other automotive fluids on me?
i use Gojo right now, and my tank hasnt suffered one bit. id like to get something that i know is safe for tanks + gets out oil n whatnot..
Gojo is great for getting the grease off, but is a fairly "strong" type of cleaner (not what I would consider a "mild" soap). What I do is use the shop soap (much akin to Gojo) to scrub my fingernails up to aprox. 4" North of the elbows before I leave work...when I get home, I use Dawn liquid dishwashing soap and repeat the above process - I figure a soap that doesn't leave a residue on a shiny dish or plate will do the same for my hands and arms. Be sure to spend as much time as needed to make sure all the soap is rinsed off though! Regular body soaps (such as deodorant soaps) would probably be a no-no...think of the residue that will build up in a shower stall - well, they leave residue on your hands and arms too - all of which will come off in your tank(s). A nice non-scented glycerine soap would probably work well also. HTHs ;)
W.
that helps a bunch. thanks!~