Jade,
pH is not normally a large issue in a tank that is propered buffered and has alkalinity readings in an acceptable range. The exception to this is when you are running a calcium reactor, as Rick is doing. You are literally pumping acid in the form of carbonic acid into your tank. Monitoring your pH is very important when you have a calcium reactor, especially when it is being dialed in, as is the case with Rick.
Joshua,
A pH meter should be calibrated every time it is used, regardless of the brand. Typically you need at least two pH points to do a proper calibration. In our case that is 7 & 10. People that running their pH meters continuously are just fooling themselves with a false sense of security. Unless you are going to spend several thousand dollars on an industrial model pH meter and hire an instrument tech to service it, you are never going to get accurate meansurements from a full-time service pH meter.
Rick,
I don't know what the green light is that you are referring to, but the only way to calibrate a pH meter is as I described above. You may have simply been testing whether your battery was working. 
Another note about pH meters. The inside of a pH electrode contains a solution of potassium chloride. The electrode should always be stored in a potassium chloride solution between uses. This can usually be put in the sponge inside the rubber cap that goes over the electrode. You can buy the storage solution or make it by using Morton Lite Salt. Please read your meter's directions on calibration and storage. You can severely shorten the life span of your electrode by not treating it as instructed. I suggest anyone planning on buying a pH meter do some research first and determine just exactly what it is capable of, and what it is not. I think a lot of perfectly good meters get accused of low quality simply because their owners don't bother to take the time to read the instructions.
Gary
125 SPS, 75 gal. LPS/softie reef, 9 gal. Nano
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Originally Posted by ~pete~
