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Thread: NEED PLUMBING HELP ALSO

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua
    I think he's got the dolphin setup as a closed loop
    :o

    That's not a closed loop, that's a surge/wave maker!

  2. #22

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    Really I appreciate all your input. I don't want another water world in my apartment.
    NaCl:
    1) the open pvc pipe is just temp. I have screens to put on the end.
    2) I don't understand this number (I'll look of the Calfo), how can I make the bulkheads lower or the drains lower? I'm not getting that.
    3) I tried to get the 55 drilled, it was a no go. besides, there is no way to provide enough water to the dolphin with my setup, I realize that now. Thats why I was gonna try that closed loop scenario, otherwise the water would flow though the sump/fuge like rageing rapids.
    4) I though with the drains I could have one to the sump fuge, and use the other bulkhead to atach to the dolphin and have it suck the water out of the tank from there.
    5) the bulkheads are 1 inch, and by screwing ontop of the threading (instead of going inside the bulkhead) I have increased the ID to 1 1/2 inch.
    6) tried the loop back to the sump with my original design and didn't work.
    7) don't have the room for a fuge.
    8)

  3. #23

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    actually don't have room for a seperate fuge and sump. the 55 goes like this:
    drain area > baffle > fuge area > baffle > pump area.

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by ansonluna
    Really I appreciate all your input. I don't want another water world in my apartment.
    NaCl:
    1) the open pvc pipe is just temp. I have screens to put on the end.
    An overflow box provides surface skimming. The "Gunk" on the water surface is drawn into the overflow box due to the surface tension of the water. With just screens on the pipe this gunk won't get pulled off the top of the water.

    2) I don't understand this number (I'll look of the Calfo), how can I make the bulkheads lower or the drains lower? I'm not getting that.
    What I meant was cap these bulkheads and drill others lower or in the botom of the tank - that's probably not realistic , right? I'm not sure how to solve this one? You really need Durso standpipes to eliminate the water drain noise. With just straight pipes, even if you add an overflow box in front of them, it will sound like a toilet flushing 24x7. You may be able to do an external durso type standpipe? I attached a really bad drawing! :oops:
    3) I tried to get the 55 drilled, it was a no go. besides, there is no way to provide enough water to the dolphin with my setup, I realize that now. Thats why I was gonna try that closed loop scenario, otherwise the water would flow though the sump/fuge like rageing rapids.
    Hum, I gotta think if you got two 1" drains working properly they would be enough for the Dolphin, but the flow through the sump would definately be "brisk"! How about you sell the Dolphin on MAAST and get a good submersible pump (Eheim) for your sump return? With your input to the Dolphin over the side, you run the risk of the pump not self priming after a power loss and buyrning out the pump - bummer!

    4) I though with the drains I could have one to the sump fuge, and use the other bulkhead to atach to the dolphin and have it suck the water out of the tank from there.
    The Dolphin is a HUGE overkill as a closed loop on a 125

    5) the bulkheads are 1 inch, and by screwing ontop of the threading (instead of going inside the bulkhead) I have increased the ID to 1 1/2 inch.
    Good, I couldn't ell the diameter from the pics. Are the PVC fittings inside the tank (other side of the bulkheads) 1" ID too?

    6) tried the loop back to the sump with my original design and didn't work.
    You would need two ball valves on either side of the Tee so you could adjust water flow to each.

    7) don't have the room for a fuge.
    Using a small portion of the 55g will be ok, just use a 1200 Maxijet or similar to pump water from sump to fuge and a **** betwen the fuge & sump so water can flow back to the sump area

  5. #25

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    alot of good tips, thanks :idea: . I have room in the plumbing system in my hood that will allow me to put another set of Y'd off "outputs", making six total. That would totally keep me from having to use powerheads at all. And since it would be a closed loop, I could point the intake down and make sure it is lower than the water level so that if the power went off and came back on there would always be water in the closed loop system....or thats what my little brain in my huge head is thinking. and although the skimming may not be the best, it will have to do. I've seen tanks at the fish stores making it work.

    There's no way in :evil: that im tanking the tank down again to drill more holes. and if I went any lower it would cause more water to go into the sump/fuge with a power loss and cause a flood.

    The inside of the bulkheads is 3/4 inch.

    I'm gonna be a hard head and incorporate everyones recomendations into my new idea and work it and see what happens. All you guys can do is pray for me...and wish me success.

    Thanks for the help again. If I don't get this blasted thing to work I'm gonna give up....I need to be concentrating on school. I sat in my class this morning and all I did was think about how I could get this to work. AND IT WAS MY RESEARCH METHODS CLASS...THAT I FAILED LAST SEMESTER!!! I had hoped to have this situated before school started again, but here I am.

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by ansonluna
    I need to be concentrating on school.
    Cancel all my previous recommendations! Speaking as a father of two college age children - drain the tank and work on the GPA!

    The tank is a good Spring break project ;)

  7. #27

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    How do I keep critter or fish from being sucked into the intake...put a sponge on it or something.

  8. #28

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    Ha ha...it was supposted to be a inbetween the semesters project....but nothing ever goes as planned....thats what makes life enjoyable (and causes ulcers, white hair and probably my balding).... :lol2:

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