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Thread: AT1 Top Off System #308

  1. #11

    Default

    I use the spectrapure one. It works great if you want hook directly up to your ro/di.

    http://www.spectrapure.com/St_alc_p1.htm

  2. #12

    Default reef fanatic

    Guys,
    How long have you been using your reef fantic models? What type of sensors do they use. Is it the same type you can buy at floatswitch.com or whatever that link is?

    Is there a possibility they can become stuck because of salt encrusting the sensor?
    George O. 110 Reef,2x250 watt 20k XMi MH\'s,2 x 110 watt vho actinic ,40 gallon custom sump w fuge;
    \"call it\"

  3. #13
    Join Date
    10-21-2002
    Location
    Central TX
    Posts
    2,535

    Default

    George - the Reef Fanatic level controller comes with 2 sensors (more of a float switch than an electronic sensor). If I remember correctly, they also sell replacement sensors if needed. The sensors are normally below water so salt doesn't encrust on them. As with any sensor/measuring equipment, it's good to clean them from time to time (although I haven't done anything to mine). I couldn't find my receipt to see when I purchased it, but I've had it for about a year I would say. I do know from talking to one of their reps that if an electronic light ballast is too close or emits a lot of electrical noise it can affect the controller. I have a 96watt electronic PC ballast near mine and haven't had any problems though.
    -Chris

  4. #14

    Default top off controller

    CapTexas,
    Sounds good man! I will have to add one to my setup. Thanks again guys!
    George O. 110 Reef,2x250 watt 20k XMi MH\'s,2 x 110 watt vho actinic ,40 gallon custom sump w fuge;
    \"call it\"

  5. #15

    Default

    Mine has been installed an running about 4-5 months - no problems yet?

  6. #16

    Default

    I will chime in here. I have actually built several cheap auto-top offs that cost less that $15. All you need is a float switch and an extension cord. Use a float switch like this: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...mId=1611760105 And wire it in with an extension cord and plug your pump into that. You simply cut one of the wires and connect each end to the wires on the float switch. These switches can trigger low or high, depending upon which way you mount the cylinder (it flips over if you need). You can double your reliability by using two. I never had a single problem with mine. If anyone wants to build one, feel free to consult me for free advice.

    However..... I will say that this time around I bought an osmolater. For something like top-off, I wanted to get the maximum reliability. The osmolater has two nice features: it has an IR sensor completely out of the water that backs up the float switch, *and* it has a time limiter that keeps it running for too long at once.

  7. #17

    Default

    One other thing. Here is a good, recommended use for a float switch like this. You can use it to monitor the level of your top-off water. All you need is an LED flasher (get one with a built-in current-limiting resistor) and a battery. Wire the switch into that, and put the switch at about the 1/4 level in your top-off container. When it gets that low, the flasher will light and let you know you need to replenish your top-off water container. (personally, I would never plumb my RO unit into anything)

    Again, if anyone wants to do this kind of thing, I would be glad to offer technical advice for wiring. It is pretty simple.

  8. #18

    Default

    hmmmm, Tunze or Reef Fanatic????????


    decisions....

  9. #19
    brianK Guest

    Default

    I've been using the ReefFanatic model (with 2 float sensors) for about 6 months now and its been running along fairly well. I did the one setup with one sensor in in my sump (sensor face up) so the controller knows when to add water, and one with the sensor face down in the refill tank to know if the water level is too low to pump any more. The setup has worked pretty good so far. If I remember correctly I think I payed around $85 for it.

    Brian

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