I am a little confused about which pump to get. They dont seem to be that inexpensive. Can you give a recommendation?
I am a little confused about which pump to get. They dont seem to be that inexpensive. Can you give a recommendation?
I just got my Sequence StingRay pump on Thursday to replace my Amp2100 pump that has lost its seal. Unfortunately it is a bit larger than the Amp and with the female threaded connections I would have to add some connections to it to get it to work with what I have. Either way, it is too big to fit where I have my Amp currently so I haven't had a chance to hook it up and check it out. Probably just save it for my 240g.
-Chris
how much $$$$ Chris? Im plumbing through the wall so space isnt sucha huge issue.
I'm not selling it. And I know you wouldn't pay me what I paid for it anyways! Got to customaquatic.com, the new Sequence pumps and that Amp3000 pump is on sale there.
-Chris
The way the friction and bio load are conected is that the skimmer produces more foam in the presence of increased organics in the water. More foam means more volume for the same mass of water, and as such, more friction in the tubes. Now, i have to say I've never tried using a big non-pressure pump like an ampmaster on my skimmers, just samller ones like magdrive and a few iwaki circulation pumps. What I've found with these is that the water level in the skimmer is very hard to maintain steady. It drops when there is more foam produced, raises when there's less. It's certainly possible that an ampmaster might be strong enough so that this would not ocurr; I was just giving my experience with pmps and my skimmers. For example, my small skimmer works MUCH better with an iwaki 40rlt, rated at 800 gph, than with a mag 18, "rated" at 1800 but probably putting 1200 or so through the injector. This is not just a matter of flow; it's much easier to adjust the skimmer and have it produce a steady foam and water level; the reason for this is that the iwaki is much better at putting out the same flow, even with variances in the back pressure.Originally Posted by kris4647
I can't really comment on what works better with other skimmers, not having the experience with them.
And BTW, I'm certainly not mad for your comments! :grin:
IME this is all about to drain... errr the drain. Water level problems, to me, seem to be hooked to drain deficiencies or problems. Meaning, a properly mounted skimmer [esp Beckett] are mounted above the water line. To drain via gravity to the sump regulated by a gate valve. For instance when you feed heavily, a properly drained skimmer will, die in relation to lost surface tension..then surge due to the added organic load and regain its former level when the organics are removed. Most of the folks I've helped with this problem have a submerged drain; which would explain many inconsistent level problems. A pvc tee installed on the drain with one outlet vertical as a vent sometimes helps.What I've found with these is that the water level in the skimmer is very hard to maintain steady. It drops when there is more foam produced, raises when there's less
I dont disagree with you on pressure pumps, but from personal experience an Ampmaster 3k [seal problems and all] compare to an Iwaki 70rlt [for the two beckett skimmers I experimented with] at close to half the amp pull [measured at the plug]. Seen some of your skimmers Matt I wish mine was as well made..
Its funny we are having this fairly technical discussion, and myself, presumably knowledgable ;), found his Beckett inlet to have a piece of gravel AND activated carbon in it. Probably reducing my efficiency by 50% for around 4 months. I guess you never quit learning.
I have heard of the sequence install problems BTW. They are huge, still hear nothing but good once you wedge them in. The suction/discharge pipe diameter are killer. Some are 2", just keep in mind [sure you have] not to restrict the suction side. A sharp install guy once gave me a tip on increasing your bulkhead size.....(drum roll)
You can temporarily glue a piece of acrylic [silicon?] over your current hole [covering it completely] This will give you something to start your drill bit on the hole-saw going with, which will pull the teeth on the hole saw through. FYI. Hope anything I've posted helps.
Good Luck!!
There is another way as well to make a hole larger. You can put the next size smaller hole saw inside of the one you are going to use that matches the original hole that way it will be centered as well.
Just another idea .
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