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Thread: Did some tests on tap water and Ro water from SA.

  1. #1

    Default Did some tests on tap water and Ro water from SA.

    Out of curiosity last night, I ran some tests on water straight from my tap, and water from my RO filter. interesting results... I used the morel dry tab test kit, and didn't test for amonia... thought you all might be interested.


    TAP
    PH 8.6 - possibly higher, scale doesn't show.
    Total Disolved Solids (TDS) at or over 465 ppm
    Buffer Capacity was at 8DKH (I believe it was dkh, don't have it infront of me now.)
    Nitrite = 0
    Nitrate = 20 ppm

    RO Water
    PH 6.8
    TDS 40 PPM
    Buffer Capacity (zero reading)
    Nitrite = 0
    Nitrate = 20 PPM

    not sure how accurate this test kit is, I got it for my wifes goldfish, which I consider it 'good enough' for. I found it very interesting that the nitrate level came through my RO filter... Guess it's time to change the carbon block.

    I will probably be purchasing a new prefilter and carbon block from airicewater.com since it seems so highly reccomended here.


    I guess I never noticed the nitrate in my water change since it is always going into nitrate free water, 30 gallons of tank water in perfect condition to 5 gallons which probably dilutes to a level to low to measure.

  2. #2

    Default

    Seems like you need a DI cartridge.

    Waters comes out of my RO/DI at 0 PPM with clean filters.

  3. #3

    Default

    yeah, i have definately had the filters running to long... I think I will slowly convert over what i have... new prefilter first, then a new carbon block, then a DI.
    "Maybe in order to understand mankind, we have to look at the word itself: "Mankind". Basically, it's made up of two separate words - "mank" and "ind". What do these words mean ? It's a mystery, and that's why so is mankind." ~ Jack Handey

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ram_Puppy
    yeah, i have definately had the filters running to long... I think I will slowly convert over what i have... new prefilter first, then a new carbon block, then a DI.
    Your going to need to change your filters failry often since your water supply is pretty bad, mine varies from 285 PPM - 325 PPM throughout the year.

  5. #5

    Default

    yeah... and I don't just use it on my tanks, I use it for my carnivorous plants as well, the thing is in near continual usage.
    "Maybe in order to understand mankind, we have to look at the word itself: "Mankind". Basically, it's made up of two separate words - "mank" and "ind". What do these words mean ? It's a mystery, and that's why so is mankind." ~ Jack Handey

  6. #6
    Join Date
    10-13-2003
    Location
    NW San Antonio
    Posts
    7,113

    Default

    The important number would be phosphate, but then, as we have discussed on numerous occasions, no truly acurate test for phosphate is available on the hobbyist level.

    Gary
    Gary

    125 SPS, 75 gal. LPS/softie reef, 9 gal. Nano

  7. #7

    Default

    I would doubt the nitrate test is correct in either water unless you really believe fertilizer is getting thru your R/O membrane.
    Larry
    INSTAR
    CEO, Biologist
    "Heck, the water is clear, must be good"

  8. #8
    mharris7 Guest

    Default

    total ppm from an ro/di can vary depending on the tds going in - ro/di let a PERCENTAGE of TDS through. The higher the amount going in the higher amount of what makes it through. It's not all bad stuff though. If it's calcium (which is very likely anywhere in Texas) its all good.


    -Mike

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