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Thread: Sump questions

  1. #1
    StephenA Guest

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    Get the 100g Reef Ready. Do the reseach on sumps, there are many different ways to go. A Model 2 Sump from Oceanic would work on that tank. The reef ready tanks are nice because they are plumbed nice for Sump Use.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    12-09-2002
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    Actually, I would have to disagree a bit. If I were starting again, I'd definitely use the Calfo style overflow, which you would not get on the "reef ready" tank. I do certainly agree that your tank should be drilled for a sump rather than using an external overflow. But, I think the Calfo set up is much better than the typical corner overflows.

    As far as the sump goes, there are lots of choices, and you have all sorts of time to decide. Probably the best, but most expensive option, is to have a nice cast acrylic sump/refugium made to fit your stand. This can be designed in all sorts of ways. Another option is to modify a glass aquarium that fits in your stand by drilling it for an external pump, and adding some baffles/dividers for a refugium area and to help with the inevitable bubbles you get from the drain splashing down from the tank. A third option, the cheapest, is to use a plastic tub of sorts. It really can be as simple as something to hold the water from your tank and any equipment you want, like a skimmer, heaters, etc. Yu'll find all sorts of designs and ideas on line. One good place to look is in the DIY forum on reefcentral.

    As far as plumbing, the basic scenario is: water drains from your tank via an overflow of sorts, falls down into the sump where it collects, then you pump it back up to the tank. Use a good external pump for your main circulation; it will stay cleaner, hold its flow better, and transfer less heat to the tank than a submersible. Plan on adding flow in the main tank via a closed loop or powerheads. These can be cheap (maxijets) or expensive and nice. (tunze) A closed loop is simply a drain from the tank, submerged, that leads to an external pump, which then recirculates the water back into the tank, typically through multiple outlets. My closed loop pushes water through 2 sea-swirls, which do a good job of moving the current around. Recently there's a device called "ocean motion" (There's a thread on this in the vendor/product experience forum) which basically rotates current through either 4 or 8 outlets. It seems to be a good device which gives you all sorts of options for providing variable currents in your tank.

  3. #3
    StephenA Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by matt
    Actually, I would have to disagree a bit. If I were starting again, I'd definitely use the Calfo style overflow, which you would not get on the "reef ready" tank. I do certainly agree that your tank should be drilled for a sump rather than using an external overflow. But, I think the Calfo set up is much better than the typical corner overflows.
    Could you explain the difference? My new tank is reef ready and does not have a corner overflow. I had the ability to order the overflow in any place in the tank.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    You need to find a drawing, just do a google search or get a copy of the article Anthony Calfo wrote talking about tank circulation. The tank drains over a shelf that extends along the entire back wall of the tank. If your new tank is "reef ready" it's supposed to come with an overflow in one or both corners installed, and holes in the bottom of the tank, usually 2 in each overflow area. That's what reef ready means. At least that's what it used to mean....it's an oceanic term, I think.

    If your tank is drilled, you may not be able to use the Calfo style overflow, depending on where the holes are.

  5. #5
    StephenA Guest

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    matt, I understand what Reef Ready means. I was asking for frogguy1 benefit. I'm very satisfied with my Oceanic Reef Ready tank. When I ordered it I had the option to put the overflow box anywhere in the tank. I picked left of center. I could have had Right, Left, Center, or both corners. I also believe turbulence is a good thing in a tank. My water drops 5” in the overflow, then down to the sump where I have a flex tube that curves around. The new overflows also have vents at the top, middle, and bottom that cause circulation down the length of the overflow box, eliminating that “Dead Zone”.

    The only thing I don't like about overflows is the wasted space in the tank. But I hate stuff hanging in or on my tank even more.

    frogguy1, Make sure you get a big enough sump for your tank and make sure which ever way you go your input method and sump can handle power outages without any issues.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    12-31-2002
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    Default Calfo Overflow

    Basically, the Calfo overflow consists of a full length overflow box attached to the back of the tank, with a shelf on the front. The idea is that by skimming the entire length of the tank, you do a much better job of exporting pollutants. The shelf can be used to camoflage the overflow with corals, mushrooms, xenia, etc.

    Another idea that he has is that reef tanks need more turbulence rather than just regular wave-type flow. He achieves this through multiple water returns all around the perimeter of the tank instead of powerheads. You can go to http://www.wetwebmedia.com to read more about both ideas.

    For reference, here is a sketch of what I'm toying with for my next tank. It includes both the Calfo overflow idea and the increased turbulence theory.
    dow

  7. #7
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    Well, when the power goes out, the pump stops pumping. When the pump stops running, water stops going back into the tank. When the water stops going into the tank, water stops flowing over the overflow. When the water stops running over the overflow, water stops running down to the sump. Pretty cool, huh? :grin: :-D :grin:
    dow

  8. #8
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    Sorry Stephen, didn't realize what you were asking. Regardless of where the overflow goes, I'm almost sure Oceanic will only drill the bottom of the tank, then you put in a traditional overflow. The Calfo set up requires several holes along the back wall of the tank. One really good thing about it is practically no noise, and I believe less drainage into the sump during power outages.

  9. #9
    StephenA Guest

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    On the power outage you need to make sure the sump can hold about 1 inch of the surface area of the main tank. I had a 72gal tank with a 20gal sump and it was close when the power went out.

    Also look at Acrylic Sumps. They can be custom to your exact needs. Several Companys do Custom Sumps. You can also get combo Sump/Refug.

    Good Luck.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    10-17-2002
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    Here is another point of view. Don't drill any holes in the tank. Use a refugium above the tank, and drill 1.5 inch bulkheads into it. Pump water from the tank with an overflow box in it (main tank) to surface skim and have it dump back into the tank. You could also build in a mini surge from that.
    Tim Marvin
    (512) 336-7258

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