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Thread: lighting for 40 gal. reef

  1. #1
    Join Date
    03-23-2003
    Location
    Galveston, TX
    Posts
    299

    Default lighting for 40 gal. reef

    I have a question for someone (or more than one someone)
    about lighting. setting up my 40 gal., w/cured rock and live sand this weekend.
    I know it'll be a while before i can have corals, but when time comes,
    thinking of 5-7 total ( at least to start ), such as shrooms, buttons, green starburst, colonial anemones, a leather or 2 (&anemone -some type that compatible w/either ocellaris, or tomato clown, haven't decided which yet). Later after I get my feet wet, would like a hammer, open brain, and a few others.

    Will 196w Compact Flourescent setup (one actinic, one reg.) be sufficient to keep these corals thriving, or do I have to get MH or VHO setup, which will be significantly more expensive for this college student (me, that is)

    Your (s) (: help has been and will be greatly appreciated
    andrew

  2. #2
    Join Date
    03-23-2003
    Location
    Galveston, TX
    Posts
    299

    Default 40 gal. reef.

    ok

  3. #3
    Join Date
    03-23-2003
    Location
    Galveston, TX
    Posts
    299

    Default it's

    it's same size as 30 gal long, except wider.

    only an x on my most recent post.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    12-09-2002
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    1,998

    Default

    I have the same tank, I think. Mine is a 45 breeder, 36X18X 16 deep. Some people call it a 40 breeder; i don't know the real volume. Anyhow, I suggest you use either a single 400 watt MH or 2 175W. I'm using the pair of 175w 10K ushios, and the light is terrific. There's a thread on either reefcentral or reefs.org about DIY MH for about $100 for a single bulb set up. It actually costs abit more; like $40 for the socket/reflector, $60 for the bulb, and about $50 for the advance ballast and wiring. This is for the iwaski bulb, which is a proven winner for coral growth. Most people like to supplement it with actinics, but you could start with just the MH and get the PC actinic when you have a few more bucks.

    Or cruise for a used MH set up. Basically all you need is a ballast, reflector/socket set-up, and a bulb. You could get that new for about $250, i think. If you hunt, it won't be more than a new 2X96 P.C. set up, and I'm sure you'll like the light better for keeping corals.

    HTH
    Matt

  5. #5
    Join Date
    03-23-2003
    Location
    Galveston, TX
    Posts
    299

    Default 40 gal. reef 36" by 15.5" by 17.5"(tall)

    thanks for the recomendations

    Another question pertaining to my setup. . .
    planning on going w/ cpr Bak Pak 2/R, lots of live rock, and was reading a book that encouraged not to use a sand medium b/c it collects nitrates in a berlin type setup(unless a plenum utilized). Does this mean I should not use the live sand (that I already have)?, or does it refer to non-live sand?Or, will I just have to make more frequent water changes?

    (I can't do a plenum because it would take up 1/3 or more of total area in my tank, and greatly restrict view)

    And, is it possible to have too much light over the tank? 2--175w bulbs, obviously, would give me 350w(8+ watts per gallon), + whatever wattage of the actinics.

    I appreciate all you guyses' Help!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    12-09-2002
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    1,998

    Default

    Hi;

    In answer to your light question, it's not really possible to overdo the light if you're planning on keeping shallow water (photosynthetic) animals. You'll have a hard time getting even a fraction of the intensity of natural sunlight on a reef. The only thing is, with a rediculous amount of light, like 3 400W bulbs, you'd have a real hard time keeping the temp down to a safe level (<84o) Believe me, 2 175W is not too much. A former local coral grower, John Moffet, raised most of his corals in 45 breeders lit by a single 400W iwasaki. If I was starting over, that's probably what I would use.

    As far as the sand bed goes, you might check out Ron Shimek's many articles on keeping a deep sand bed. I personally can't imagine a tank without sand, but I know people do it. I'm pretty sure a sand bed will not contribute to nitrates; if you were to have a 3"-4" deep sand bed, made primarily with "sugarfine" aragonite, like southdown, and stock the sand bed with a good microfauna, you'll process a lot of nitrate out of the system. This is, in fact, why many people keep sand beds. I would ditch the plenum idea.

    Good luck
    Matt

  7. #7

    Default

    I ran my 45 reef w/ 2 96W pc for many years and kept all the corals that you are interesteeed in. I used (still do just now I only have 2x 55w PCs) a 4 " sand bed, refugium and no skimmer. I had my pair of ocellaris clowns and at one time had 6 green bulb anenomes filling most of the tank. I moved most of the corals and anenomes into my 90 but I keep the 45 for frags and it still is one of the bets setups Ive ever had.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    03-23-2003
    Location
    Galveston, TX
    Posts
    299

    Default

    sounds good(:
    been delayed so i won't have my tank up for another week
    but your help is most welcome (I'm new to reefkeeping - only done FOWLR in the past and can't wait to get started(but i'm going slow) -happy to have been referred to this org.)

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