Live Rock Cure Time...

[djdubdub]

How long should you cure live rock in a new tank?? What determines when it is "done" curing???

I know there is going to be some die-off... And that you should monitor the ammonia levels... But at what level is it safe to put in new inhabitants??? Is there a way to speed the process???

Most important... When is it safe???

[OrionN]

When Amonia and Nitrite reading is 0.
Sometime, the reading of Nitrite and Ammonia is not too accurate and you will see minimal level of nitrite and ammonia for several weeks. I would consider those are safe level as well.
Minh Nguyen

[captexas]

As Mihn said, you want your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates to be back down to zero. Depending on the live rock you have, it could take a couple of weeks to just a few days. You want to keep plenty of circulation and do frequent water changes. Those are the only ways you can help the situation.

As this is a new tank, you don't want to rush things. The system is just now starting to establish itself and adding livestock is not a good idea at this time. You have to remember that ocean inhabitants come from a very stable environment and adding any to your tank while it is still fluctuating is very risky. After your values go down to normal, you may want to add a few hermits and/or snails. The tests values will go up for a little while and then should return to normal. After that you can add maybe one fish, but keep very close tabs on the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels.

After awhile, the tank will slowly build up to where it can handle more, but take it slow. I know that's not easy to do, I had to fight to keep from stocking my tank too soon as well!

Good luck and keep up posted on your new tank!

Chris

[djdubdub]

Thanks All... I soaking all the info up like a sponge... Every little bit helps... Thanks

[Tim Marvin]

I have cured literally thousands of pounds of rock, and after being shipped from a place like Fiji it can take from 2 weeks to 2 months to cure out. The process goes like this: Decomposition by fungi and bacteria, Ammonia(NH3/NH4+), nitrite bacteria (Nitrosomonas) turn the ammonia into nitrites(NO2-), then nitrate bacteria (nitrobacter) turns nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are then removed from the water by water changes, algae, or anaerobic conditions such as a deep sand beds which will change the nitrates to free nitrogen and removed through off gassing through the water surface. Water agitating on the surface speeds this process. This is all part of the nitrogen cycle, in a nut shell. So the cleaner the rock the lighter the bio-load the faster the process.

[Tim Marvin]

There are two theories on doing water changes that I know of. Then there is my theory.

1. Don't change ANY water during cycling because you want to develop the heavy bacteria colonies needed for future bio loads.

2. Do water changes to keep some of the stuff alive on the rocks.

3. Only do a couple small water changes during cycling to keep the spike from going too high, but also make a large screened in box and fill it with grape caulerpa for nutrient exporting as well as a fast growing food source for the tangs and other herbivores.

[djdubdub]

Great info Tim... Will you see a physical difference on the surface of the rock or water color???

I removed alot of "dead" particles from the rock when I got it. It's been in the tank for a week. I notice alot more debris on the rock after the first week. Alot of it had turned white (almost like ash all over the rock). Yestday I did about a 33% water change and "dusted" off the rock. The water almost had somewhat of a greenish tint...

Today the tank looks (and smells) better. I plan I doing a water test today to see how it's coming.

[djdubdub]

I did a water test out of curiousity today...

Tank temp: 79' Salinity: 1.024
pH: 8.0 Ammonia: 0.0ppm
Nitrate: 10ppm Nitrite: 0.2ppm

Correct me if I am wrong, but these look very low and w/in tolerable levels. Could this from the water change yesterday?? Or do you think my bacterial colonies are strong and my water movement is good??? It looks like my pH could be higher but, again, this could be my water.

[Tim Marvin]

You are correct Josh. Ammonia should be 0, nitrite should be 0, and nitrates low before adding livestock. Nitrate build-up is a normal part of the biological processes within the filter and can be removed with plants and water changes. If you can obtain a perfect balance then you could theoretically go without doing a water change ever again. Although you would need a calcium reactor to add your trace elements back into the water used by the corals and fish metabolisms.