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Thread: alge

  1. #1
    Join Date
    01-28-2010
    Location
    San Antonio,TX
    Posts
    88

    Question alge

    I have some algae that is starting to grow on the tips of some of my coral and some of the tips look like they are starting to die off a bit, so i would like to know what i should do? Should i buy some thing to dose for algae or will that effect my corals health and or growth?

  2. #2
    tebstan Guest

    Default

    What kind of algae?

    I used the algae chemical as a quick fix when the algae phase of cycling was driving me crazy. But I won't use it anymore, I try to make a natural system that won't need it. I hate to use chemicals like that if its not necessary, it goes against developing an ecosystem.

    Post more about the tank, inhabitants, and algae/history.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    04-08-2008
    Location
    NW San Antonio
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    7,123

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    Hi Marissa,

    Are you sure it is algae? And not red slime? What color is it?

    Can you give us a little more info about your tank? This can also help us help you.


    Just a small tank...


  4. #4
    Join Date
    01-28-2010
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    San Antonio,TX
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    88

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    01-28-2010
    Location
    San Antonio,TX
    Posts
    88

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    It like a green hair alge cuz i can pick it off a llittle at a time. i dont think its red alge cuz red alge comes off like a sheet right? it did have red bubbles this morning before we started to pick it off so it may be the beginning stage of red alge. what can i do to control it?
    Tank: 55 corner with 4 36inch. T5 HO (2blue and 2white) with a 20 gallon wet dry sump.
    if there is anything else u need to know to help me just let me know.
    Last edited by marissa21; Thu, 8th Apr 2010 at 01:10 AM.

  6. #6

    Default

    Tell us about your flow. You could / should probably take care of this by:
    1. continued diligent manual removal
    2. increase your flow (truly believe that there is no such thing as too much flow!)
    3. increased water changes

    Good luck and keep us posted.

    Oh, you might also want to explore a shortened light cycle.
    http://www.millan.net/minimations/sm...riumsmile1.gif - Kristy and Mike -

    210 g reef tank started 3/15/08; 20 g hex reef tank started 1/3/08, ended 3/30/14

    "I must be a mermaid.... I have no fear of depths and a great fear of shallow living." - Anais Nin
    "To travel is to take a journey into yourself." - Danny Kaye

  7. #7
    Join Date
    08-29-2009
    Location
    New Braunfels
    Posts
    1,288

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kristy View Post
    Tell us about your flow. You could / should probably take care of this by:
    1. continued diligent manual removal
    2. increase your flow (truly believe that there is no such thing as too much flow!)
    3. increased water changes

    Good luck and keep us posted.

    Oh, you might also want to explore a shortened light cycle.
    Provided it is "red algae" ie cyanobacteria, which in and of itself is different than algae but treating it is pretty much the same. As stated manual removal will go a long way in helping. This is because with cyanobacteria it grows as strands of bacteria within itself (why it seems like it could come off in sheets) Also this will disturb it as much as possible which makes it take longer to grow back b/c first it must repair, so it gives u an edge up.
    Also cyanobacteria is an anaerobic bacteria so that means it loves areas of low oxygen content. So as stated up your water flow if possible. You should have quite a bit of surface disturbance in order to allow rapid oxygen exchange into the water as well as good flow within the tanks. You might want to even point an indirect (not a ph that has a straight output but something that has dispersed flow such as a Koralia) Random currents bouncing off of glass and interrupting other currents will make some good random currents and carry nutrients away from stagnant spots as well as bring oxygen to them. This removal of nutrients from these spots is only so helpful since its an enclosed system they wont go away like in nature due to you dont have a jet stream that moves the water from the reef to the deep ocean.
    So this is where the manual water changes come into play. Manually removing water and replacing it ie a partial removes dissolved organics which are bioavailable for the cyano to readily take up and grow quickly. Also to help not defeat the purpose of these partials reduce feeding and depending on what kind of food your using i recommend a few things.
    If its flake - change to a high quality pellet. Flake food is all too easily picked up by a filter system and forever trapped until you clean out your wet-dry.
    If its frozen - then let it thaw out and then remove all the excess fluid as this contains nitrates and phosphates that your system doesnt need
    And also I recommend to back off feeding some during this time of fighting your cyanobacteria.
    Also if you do one of these things such as manually disrupting it and removing as much as possible this decreases its foothold on your system and makes it more possible so an algae can take its place. So be ready for that if you dont full heartedly try to remedy all of these problems. That is why a lot of people us fuges is b/c they can put in a macroalgae in the fuge and it can help to out-compete nuisance algae and cyanobacteria in your dt. Macro algae has a different cell structure which allows it to absorb nutrients at a faster rate than a micro algae ie hair algae or "red algae"
    Hope this helps and doesnt overwhelm lol any questions just post them

  8. #8
    Join Date
    08-29-2009
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    New Braunfels
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    OOO ya and I agree with shortening your light cycle even if just temporarily due to the fact that it photosynthetic and derives its energy from the light. Also how old are your bulbs? Older bulbs put out a different spectrum over time. This spectrum shift comes from the walls of the light bulb being porous. (even though it looks solid) These pores allow the molecules that are in the tubes to escape. This happens slowly over time normally if left at room temp. Think about how every so often you have to test your air pressure in your tires because air slowly leaks out, its the same concept. Now these escaping molecules get "excited" and move really really fast when the light is turned on. this increase in speed increases the amount of times it bounces off the walls of your light. Each time it bounces it has the chance of going through, more bounces = more chances to leave = more leaving gas = wrong spectrum

  9. #9
    Join Date
    03-13-2009
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    doesnt matter
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    All good advice above also try some chemi-pure elite, i believe Gabe is getting some today, im battling a bad red slim out break on my pico and been waiting for the chemipure. it helped alot when i had this problem in biocubes, plus upping the flow
    REEF MAFIA
    "TEFLON DON"

  10. #10
    Join Date
    01-28-2010
    Location
    San Antonio,TX
    Posts
    88

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    thanks for the advice i just got to 2 Koralia #3 fans and im gonna put them asap to improve the flow and also bought a 3 chamber sump and i think im going to try this micro algae thing and see what helps. later gonna go buy some timers to shorten the light cycle. oh yea no fish in my tank just got a red scooter but Thanks again everyone.
    125 gal

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