Need a few 'return' to sump suggestions

[hobogato]

i agree with enigma on the chiller, you could eliminate two holes in your sump by going from the sump thru the chiller and back to the tank all in one line. the side the water spills into from the tank (the right side on your diagram) would have a constant depth of 7 inches (the height of the bottom baffle. the autotopoff controller should go in the side with the return to the tank, since that is the level that will decrease with evaporation. it doesnt matter where you drip in the topoff water.

[MarkLW]

I like the idea about dropping off a few bulk heads but my return pump is a Mag 18 and I would be concerned about the flow being too high for the chiller to work properly?

What about:
* Pressure loss going up to the tank how much would that be effected even if I could send it through the chiller first.
* Also note that I still have the fuge returning into the sump (with critters that guess would be bad in the chiller). I have a below tank fuge and I need to get it back into tank (preferable without external run).

We have a Teclima CA680 (http://fritzpet.com/teclima680.htm) found that it has Minimum Required Flow - 105.7 gph but nothing about max flow…


Again thanks!!

[Enigma13]

As for the loss of flow from running through a chiller I have heard to add about 4' of head pressure as a ballpark. Searching further on the site you linked it seems that the recommended flow rate for the chiller is approx. 360-480 gph (6-8 gpm). http://fritzpet.com/chillerchoose.html. That is a little lower than I was thinking. I have a Current USA Prime Inline that basically is allows for 480-840 gph. I also noticed that the chiller is recommended for systems from 200-300 liters (50-75 gallons), and from your signature I am guessing that you are setting up a 120G so you might want to consider whether the chiller will handle the water volume you will have.

As far as pumps go and going directly back to the tank from the chiller: I do not know what you tank return setup is, but I run one return pump that goes directly to the returns on the far side and a second return pump that goes to the chiller and then to the near side returns. You are right that the MAg 18 would inhibit chiller performance.

I am not that concerned about getting pods up to my display from the refugium (focused on nitrate export) so I have the water pass through the bubble sponge after the fuge and hope that it gets enough out to be acceptable to the chiller. You will still probably want to follow your chillers instructions on cleaing/flush procedures about twice a year anyway.

[MarkLW]

yes this is for the 120. thank for for looking around very helpfull! I pulled the manuals from the site (printed for records ;)) and found the attached graph so think will be ok for the added water on the chiller.

Not sure on how best to handle the such low flow of the 6-8G a min you found (again thanks).. I have a Magnum 350 that I am using now just to clean water a bit... could use that to run the chiller flow and that would be just about correct... actualy believe we got the chiller and that pump together and orig owner was running chiller with it.

as I will have two socks that should cut most of the 'stuff' out, so how about connecting the chiller on the constant level side (skimmer side) with a filter sponge or something on the intake.. would that work? As it sounds like I need to keep it away from the fuge return totally and I really do want to keep the pods and what not, getting them into my tank to help with the feeding... will take any sugestions anyone may have!!

[matt]

You should probably put the baffles much closer to the tank drain/skimmer area. You want three baffles; over/under/over and then as large an area as possible after the baffles. This way your area of evaporation is much larger and your sump water level won't go down as quickly. You'll also have water moving slowly through the area after the baffles which will allow small bubbles to rise to the surface before they get caught in your pump. As far as the fuge goes, can you tee off the tank drain and divert some of that water to the fuge? Then you can drain the fuge into the sump just before the baffles, or just after if it's a nice slow flow. I'd try to avoid using a sponge filter in your bafffles. It won't really do anything except trap detritus and very small animals from the fuge.

[MarkLW]

Thanks Matt for your help in this...

This is what we have come up with...

Feedback anyone?