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Thread: Green Water - Need help

  1. #21
    Simon Guest

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    Here 's some answers to some of your questions.
    The test kit I used was a Saltwater Master liquid test kit.
    I have been using carbon in the sump and the hangon filter and replacing it frequently. The lights are being run only about 6 hrs. per day. It has a shallow fine sand bed. I've been feeding frozen food since someone told me the flake food could have been the problem. I have replaced the halogen light in the sump with a 9w 6500K power compact that has been on since Tuesday night (11-30-04).
    And no I did not cure my rocks I got from Alamo Aquatics. The green did start after that. I have not however added any more live rock for a few months now.
    I don't know much about rotifers and how to eliminate them once introduced if I need to go that route. The clam idea sounds easier.

    Opinions?

    Thanks agin,
    Simon

  2. #22
    Join Date
    12-09-2002
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    1,998

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    Yep, all that photosynthesis of the algae is raising the ph, if it's really at 8.4. Unless you have a decent probe and calibration fluid you don;t really know what the ph is.

    I disagree with the clam idea. Those are not easy animals to keep healthy, and PC lighting is not good for them. I understand the theory here, I just don't think it's appropriate in this case. Who knows what the Ca/Alk situation is in this tank...Why don't you change ALOT of water, like 50% every week a few times in a row, using good R.O. water and quality salt, keep the lights on a normal cycle, take Larry's suggestion with the macro, and let it go for a while. It looks like there's hardly anything in your tank, BTW, unless I'm not seeing rocks behind the green. Once your water clears up a little, add some more CURED live rock, maybe even put in a nice sand bed and try to get a few filter feeders growing. From the looks of your sump, you hardly have any space for caulerpa, so I doubt if it's having much impact on your main tank. It also looks like the caulerpa gets pounded by your tank drain; is it possible some it is getting passed through the pump? If so, you'll have a "nice" caulerpa patch taking over your tank someday. Oh yeah, you might want to make sure your water is moving enough in the main tank. Just toss a couple of maxijets in there. (Not an actual toss, I'm sure you know!)

    Have fun! :grin:

  3. #23

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    I still suspect you have a phosphate problem even if it isn't showing up on your test kit. Mainly because you were using tap water until recently.There are many ways to approach this problem but here's what I would do.

    1.) Borrow/rent a uv sterilizer and run it for about 4 days.
    2.) Use about a 1/4 cup of phosguard and replace daily for 4 days.
    3.) Toss a polyfilter in the sump and make sure your skimmer is working well.
    4.) Do a 5 gallon water change daily during this period. I try to avoid large % water changes.

    If that doesn't work err...listen to someone else :?

  4. #24

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    Don't do the clam, it may die on you in that water even without considering lights.
    Well, all that Matt said and Richard said. Richard's 5 gallon daily water change (or 10%) is what anyone should do if they think they are getting into trouble. Either way you're going to have to change the water, even if you go the rotifer route. Rotifers are easy, there is no wrong amount to add. But, even doing this method, you still have to change 100% of the water out. It will take a few days with rotifers. Picture the rotifers like little diatom bags going around gathering up the algae cells. They eat and reproduce and then work faster. Once they are done, those little bags of cells are easy to filter out and will go with your hang on and if not, then they can be gotten with a sterilizer. It may be hard to borrow one of those. Since you're going to have to change the water completely, 100% anyway, why not just do that first and see where it gets you? Not changing water since the live rock cycle and using tap water has done this and thats the only really good way to undo it. The live rock should be fine with 100% change and you can reacclimate your fish from a holding tank such as a large rubbermaid tote. You will have to mix enough water in something like a plastic trash can or tote and it may take you a couple days. With heater, lights, circulation and rocks in the tote, the fish will be fine for a couple days if it takes you that long to regroup with the water. You still will need some living sand and the right macro in the sump to keep this from happening again. And of course, RO/DI water. You can buy a top of the line unit now on our group order. Decisions, decisions, right?
    Larry
    INSTAR
    CEO, Biologist
    "Heck, the water is clear, must be good"

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