UPCOMING: Events

Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Wet/Dry or just LR?

  1. #1

    Default Wet/Dry or just LR?

    This is probably a worn out topic, but I would like to hear what others are doing.

    For my new tank setup many folks have recommended that I don't need a Wet/Dry trickle filter full of Bio-Balls, and that the Live Rock will provide more than adequate bilogical filtration. I don't disagree with this statement ... however, some of the same folks say my current 125g tank is doing great and I shouldn't change anything, which I assume includes my current Wet/Dry trickle flter! :?

    I like having the mechanical filter (sheets of blue stuff from LFS) above the Wet/Dry, and change it on a VERY rugular basis so it doesn't supply an abundant source of ammonia/NO2/NO3. And I expect the bio-balls do help keep the oxygen level up.

    Can anyone contrast their experience with a system with and without a Wet/Dry filter? I just can't seem to let go of something that has worked so well for me for many years of fresh & now Saltwater aquariums!

    Thx - Steve

  2. #2
    Join Date
    05-14-2003
    Location
    San Antonio, 281/1604 area
    Posts
    3,484

    Default

    I just removed all the bio balls from my wet dry and basically just turned it into a sump. Also added live rock rubble to the area where the bio balls were previously but only enough that they are always submerged completely.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    10-13-2003
    Location
    NW San Antonio
    Posts
    7,113

    Default

    Steve,

    I think there may be some value to a wet/dry for a FO tank. If you are running a skimmer, which you should, then oxygenation by the wet/dry shouldn't be an issue. Additional circulation, especially across the top of the tank will also help oxygenation. Yhe blue stuff you are referring to is filter media I assume. It acts as a physical filter and will greatly help nutrient export. The problem most people have, and you apparently do not, is that they don't change their filter media often enough. I recommend at least once a week. If its left much longer than that the organic material breaks down and is released back to the water.

    The downside to a wet/dry is that it produces nitrate as a result of biological activity. That's OK for a FO tank, but not for a reef tank. You need an anerobic zone or macros such as in a refugium to either use the nitrate or complete the nitrogen cycle.

    Gary
    Gary

    125 SPS, 75 gal. LPS/softie reef, 9 gal. Nano

  4. #4
    Join Date
    10-17-2003
    Location
    Sonterra San Antonio
    Posts
    899

    Default

    If it ain't broke, don't fix it.... Just test your nitrate levels frequently.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    06-07-2003
    Location
    NW / leon valley
    Posts
    851

    Default

    don't remove the wet/dry. you need that for your sump. just start removing your bio balls a little at a time. this will reduce your nitrate levels. my 250 is full of corals and fish, and i have no bio of any kind in my filter. the live rock does all the work.
    350 gal. 7\'x36\'\'x25\'\'tall, , 3-400w.mh-10k, 2-6\' vho actinic, 175gal.sump, 6ft. 100gal zenia fuge,calcium reactor, kalk reactor and a carbon reactor. 7\' turbofloter 5000 skimmer.

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dan
    don't remove the wet/dry. you need that for your sump.
    So Dan, thinking about those drawings you are looking over ;) ... can I just fill the bottom area of the Wet/Dry with LR rubble, and leave out the upper "Dry" portion of the filter (still leaving space for the drain connection & mech filter of course)? This would give me more clearance under my tanks for a taller sump, and more capacity! Just 6 more inches of sump depth would give me another 50g.

    or should I start a new tank with bio-balls and remove them later?

  7. #7

    Default

    on my 75 gallon, all I use is live rock and a protien skimmer.......no sump, no wet/dry.....I have a penguin double bio wheel running on it but without any filter media in it. Maily use it to airate the water, water flow, and an easy place to carbon my tank. The pro.skimmer adds more airation and does a graet job for mechanical filtration. I have power heads for more airation and water movement but the live rock is doing 100% of the bio filtration and the only mechinal filtration is my pro skimmer.

    I have not had any real problems with algea, all my corals are thriving, fish are thriving, and my water stays consitant for the most part with great readings.

    Just use plenty of cured live rock and a good pro skimmer and keep the water moving with plenty of ox. exchange and you should be fine. I think the biggest thing is the ox exchange, just make sure you are getting plenty of it.

    But I do agree with other post, if you are going to use a wet/dry remove the bio balls and replace with live rock. Never used it but was suggested to me by someone that I trust the most in the hobbie! MikeP....
    If life is like a box of chocolates, then someone sat on mine!


    http://www.bluehanddesigns.com

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •