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secretweapons22
Thu, 25th Mar 2010, 09:09 PM
I am setting up my Neo Nano in the near future, however it only has 2 overflows. I have been reading on the subject and the silent designs that I have found require 3 overflows. Any links or descriptions on how to set up the overflows to be silent but still safe?

I have heard of putting an elbow on one of the overflows to make it a tad higher than the other and placing a gate valve on the lower one. Then tune the gate valve to get a "true" syphon.

Has anyone done this?

O I forgot to add, in case you don't know how the overflows are set up on the tank.

It has two one inch overflows. Each has its own overflow box. The return is a waterfall so converting it to a fail safe is not an option.

Also even though I could convert, it would kinda defeat the purpose if having this particular tank IMO
Thanks ..

corruption
Thu, 25th Mar 2010, 10:05 PM
Silence in overflows is far less about how many pipes, and instead about how big your plumbing is. While I'm familiar with the Neo Nano, I can't honestly say that I know what size plumbing it uses. If its like all too many of the pre-drilled commercial tanks, its probably dual 1" drains. The idea is to provide as much potential flow rate to the sump -- your flow is 100% determined by the return from the sump, so having wider pipes just makes clogging and problems less likely.

If it were me/mine, I wouldn't mess with the plumbing -- the Neo Nano is such a pretty tank as it is, I'd be fearful of messing it up myself :)

-Justin

Bill S
Thu, 25th Mar 2010, 10:15 PM
Much of the sound from overflows is from air bubbles caught in the drain. These can usually be quieted by putting airlines down the drain to where the air bubbles become trapped, allowing them to "burp" out the tubing. Rigid tubing works even better.

corruption
Thu, 25th Mar 2010, 10:18 PM
Good point, Bill -- I knew I was forgetting a point in there somewhere :)

-Justin

secretweapons22
Fri, 26th Mar 2010, 12:10 AM
The plumbing is 1in. As for changing the plumbing, I have no intention of doing so, Just wanted to make it known I knew about the 3 over flow methods to eliminate those suggestions. LOL Call it a preemptive strike if you will. As for the rigid tubing how would one put that in since the overflows go through the back of the tank? You suggesting a T on the back of the bulkhead and capping the top and then drilling a hole to insert tubing into?

secretweapons22
Fri, 26th Mar 2010, 12:13 AM
Flow is not a concern. Noise is. I plan on getting 2 MP10s (the new ones) to supplement flow. I will have a sump made but it will only have a fuge, so slow flow works for me. Just shooting for silent.

corruption
Fri, 26th Mar 2010, 12:42 AM
The plumbing is 1in. As for changing the plumbing, I have no intention of doing so, Just wanted to make it known I knew about the 3 over flow methods to eliminate those suggestions. LOL Call it a preemptive strike if you will. As for the rigid tubing how would one put that in since the overflows go through the back of the tank? You suggesting a T on the back of the bulkhead and capping the top and then drilling a hole to insert tubing into?

Its actually a lot easier than you would think -- a 90 degree street elbow with a hole drilled in the outer crook of the bend, with the tubing in the hole :) The quckie way to ensure it wont seep is some silicon, the less convenient but better way is to use a rubber collar of some sort that fits the hole diameter on the outside, and the tube diameter on the inside. Very simple, very effective.

Another option is to enlarge your plumbing after the bulkheads -- use a 1 to 1.5 inch 'reducer' to a 90 degree 1.5 inch street elbow, with the same respiration added as above -- should keep it nice and quiet. As long as you're not trying to push an insane return pump back from the fuge, you should be golden. I'd think 300gph or so would be about right -- perhaps a quietone 2100 or similar :)

-Justin

Neptune@gabesfish
Fri, 26th Mar 2010, 07:57 AM
This tank is not loud to begin with to operate correct you really cannot put a big pump on it anyway.. the only loud part is the splash into sump if any

hobogato
Fri, 26th Mar 2010, 08:19 AM
... the only loud part is the splash into sump if any

one trick to quiet that down is to extend the drain pipe to the water level of the chamber it spills into and put a 90 deg elbow on the end of it. that will also help with microbubbles.

Big_Pun
Fri, 26th Mar 2010, 08:26 AM
good thread i didnt the 90 degree at the end of the drain, i just put in a standpipe and get alot of micro bubbles, then dont get into my display but they create a fine mist in my fuge, yea the neo isnt that loud my 24 inch tall over flow was niagra falls before the standpipe

rockmp
Fri, 26th Mar 2010, 09:27 AM
Here is one I was reading over on RC.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1310585

roscozman
Fri, 26th Mar 2010, 10:41 AM
Here is one I was reading over on RC.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1310585

I use this type of overflow/drain on my fuge. It works well and is dead silent.



I have heard of putting an elbow on one of the overflows to make it a tad higher than the other and placing a gate valve on the lower one. Then tune the gate valve to get a "true" syphon.

Has anyone done this?


On RC, I read the term "Herbie Overflow". That is where they turn a standard RR tank with two hole (1 return, 1 drain) into a 2 drain system and use a hang-on return. If you have two overflows, you just repeat the process.

The overflow rockmp mentions still works for a two pipe drain system. The third pipe is only for back up.