2 Different colors

[smelleybrad]

Most of you have seen the pics of my new lights on the canopy the Pete built. You also know that they are the same bulbs on each end 20K's. One is alot brighter than the other. I switched the cords around and now the brighter side is on the other end. Does this mean I have a defective ballast? The instructions said bulbs might not be the same color at first. Could take up to 100 hours to get proper color. If that was so then it would have just stayed the same when I switched the cords. Any thoughts?????????

[GaryP]

It sounds like a faulty ballast to me. I think that was most people's opinion in your other post.

[NaCl_H2O]

From your testing, I woud say one of your ballasts is defective. Now, which one is a harder question? Is it generating too much, or too little voltage? I have one ballast that made one of my 6500Ks burn much brighter, but now that I switched to 10Ks it seems to be OK - maybe it was the bulb?

Maybe someone here can give some guidelines for testing the ballast output voltage? I think this is VERY high voltage coming out of the ballast, so be careful - maybe even call on the help of an electrician with the proper tools/meters.

So is there an electrician in the house? Do MH ballasts generate AC or DC power? Voltage level? What else?

I have considered testing my ballasts for dfferences but not sure how to start - can I do anything with a Multimeter?

[Reef69]

Must..Call......Greg....Coralvue....250 watt retros....LOL..Jk, :skeezy

[bprewit]

What type of ballast are you using? Electronic or transformer/cap type? I can measure the output voltage of my transformer/cap type 250W ballast and let you know the output voltage and maybe that would give you a base reading and help you track down which ballast is faulty? The ballasts are AC output but the output voltage changes from almost short circut at start-up (some as low as 20V) to close to open circut voltage at normal operation (can be as high as 600V) after arc strike. Alot of ballasts are multi-tap input so that you can wire it to 120V, 240V, 277V, 480V, etc and if that is wired incorrectly you could have reduced output to your lamp making it dimmer. If it were electronic ballast I have no troubleshooting ideas except for the input voltage, if transformer/cap it could be incorrect input voltage tap, bad capacitor, or something along those lines. Even though sounds stupid I have seen 175W ballasts wired to 250W bulbs and even though the bulb would light its output was greatly reduced to around what a 175W bulb would do. Bad ballast, incorrect wattage bulb, incorrect wattage ballast, wrong input tap, or faulty wiring, could be any of those. Best of luck man and nice looking caonopy by the way! He did a great job building that!

[mathias]

hmmm you said it switched when you switched cords??? that would lead me to think that it might be the cord?

[mathias]

or you talking cord from ballast to light? or cord from wall to ballast?

[smelleybrad]

I was talking about the cord from ballast to light. It doesn't matter now b/c they are sending me a new one...

The brand is PFO

[FSU]

TOLD YOU TO BUY FROM GREG!

[Reef69]

TOLD YOU TO BUY FROM GREG!


LOL, Everytime i tell him that, he never says anything back... :lol

[OldSalty]

Sounds like you maby have the dim one wired for 277 vac, that could explain why its so low. BTW that is if your using a magnetic ballast.

[captexas]

He's using a PFO dual ballast that is prewired inside. All there is to wire up is the quick connect cables to the mogul socket. Just a bit of bad luck I think with the ballast, could have happened with any brand, including Coralvue. It's good to see the company Brad ordered it from is replacing it. I know he is excited to get them up and going! :)