Corals and lighting

[TexasState]

I don't have any proof, but those 65/55 watt difference are probably just marketing scheme. Even if it's true, your ballast might not necessarily drive your bulbs to 65 Watt. If you want optimum lightning, just clean the salt spray from your bulb once in awhile. Also, sand the inside of the canopy and paint it a marine waterproof white paint. If you have enough rock work, just keep the higher light demand corals on top, and lower light demand corals on the bottom. I would run your current 2 bulbs setup 1st to check for any heat problem b4 you decide add any more bulb.

[ratboy]

Euphyllia sp (torches, hammers, frogspawn), leathers, zoos, shrooms,calestrea, open brains, Fungia short tentacle plate, green bulb anenome have all done very well for me in a similar setup (40 gal w/ 200w PC's. The list is shorter of things you couldnt keep Id say. Clams (except maybe a derasa) and sps (except maybe some montiporas that would likely brown out).
-erik

[Instar]

You should have more actinic than 10k or at least half and half. Best ratio is 2 actinic to 1 10k, so if you change bulbs I would recommend working toward that scheme. If you can bring on the actinic independently of the 10k, you'll be amazed at the difference in sunrise and sunset colors. Its like two different pictures and color schemes in your tank. Photoperiod should be 14 hours for the actinics and bracketing by 1 hour in the morning and 1 in the evening, a 12 hour photoperiod for the 10k. You could do 13 and 11, but, I wouldn't go any shorter than that with florescents (pc's). People rave on and on about the colors of GARF corals and this is the scheme they use most.