How to keep SPS

[FarmerTy]

Hello my fellow Maast'ers,

I wanted to start this thread as a place to exchange information for those wanting to keep SPS or currently keeping them but would like more success.

I am happy to answer any/all questions anybody may have regarding the subject as I have successfully kept them for 7 years now.

A quick blurb about myself, I'm a scientist who studied marine biology in undergrad for the first 2 years and then graduated with an Ocean and Coastal Resources degree. I've kept saltwater tanks for 14 years now, going from a mostly softie nano tank to my current 215 gallon SPS-dominant tank.

Here's my tank at its peak before I moved houses earlier this year.

https://youtu.be/op42ik2Mo0w

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170727/1977be07e8817bdb8cd61cff92bf9799.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170727/a1ec435567e46211705fe434466c9b1b.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170727/7699ca2478a1aaf1a4a1a5cedb73a579.jpg

Anyways, just wanted to make myself open to fellow hobbyist looking to get into SPS. I know when I first started, I was killing frags left and right until a good buddy of mine showed me the way to success. I hope to repay the favor to the next hobbyist. :)

Just ask away!

-Ty

[alton]

Twenty six views and no questions? For me it is easy growing Sps, I just ask you which ones are the easiest to grow and I get those. Which brings to mind, have you ever compiled a list of easy, semi easy, or unless you are a pro do not buy coral list?

[FarmerTy]

Twenty six views and no questions? For me it is easy growing Sps, I just ask you which ones are the easiest to grow and I get those. Which brings to mind, have you ever compiled a list of easy, semi easy, or unless you are a pro do not buy coral list?That's hilarious Alton. I've actually never compiled a list but I guess I could shoot out a quick guideline.

[ErikH]

That makes sense Alton, bright and shiny doesn't always mean easy, or even lasting.

Blueberry gorgoinians come to mind, I know it's not SPS, but it isnt hardy at all, and everyone loves them! :)

Gonna go watch Ty's videos on my TV so I can Ooh and Ahh! :)

100g SPS and Zoa Garden in the Works!

[stoneroller]

What's in your sump, Ty?

[FarmerTy]

What's in your sump, Ty?Excellent question.

For now I'm running a skimmer rated for 2x the capacity of the tank, biopellets, GFO, and activated carbon. For supplementation of foundation elements, I use a calcium reactor.

This also allows me to go without water changes in my system as well coincidentally.

[FarmerTy]

That makes sense Alton, bright and shiny doesn't always mean easy, or even lasting.

Blueberry gorgoinians come to mind, I know it's not SPS, but it isnt hardy at all, and everyone loves them! :)

Gonna go watch Ty's videos on my TV so I can Ooh and Ahh! :)

100g SPS and Zoa Garden in the Works!Feel free to ask any questions Erik if you come across any systen design options for making the system more hospitable to SPS.

[stoneroller]

Thanks. No socks I presume. Why run carbon?

[FarmerTy]

Thanks. No socks I presume. Why run carbon?No socks... I haven't run socks for 3 years each on two older setups with no issues, even when there was about 1-1.5" of detritus in the sump.

I run carbon to scrub any chemical warfare and to remove any yellowing compounds from the water.

[stoneroller]

i'm impressed with the coral colors even after the move. What else do you dose? How about lighting details?

[FarmerTy]

i'm impressed with the coral colors even after the move. What else do you dose? How about lighting details?Thanks. It was one of the things that surprised me too. I thought for sure my SPS would be set back at least 6months to a year regarding color but most have stayed colored through the whole process. I even transported them dry.

There are still some that need to color back up but probably 75% didn't skip a beat.

I was originally running 3 Ocean Revive fixtures, modified with all green, red, and 10k cool white diodes replaced for 3.5k warm white diodes. Best decision I ever made regarding lighting. I supplemented with 3 T5 bulbs and the color was amazing. I've since switched to all T5 lighting, ATI sunpower fixture with these 8 bulbs, Blue +, coral +, actinic, purple +, blue +, actinic, coral +, blue +. The colors dipped a bit but came right back after adjusting. I think about another month and the colors will surpass what I had with the led/t5 combo I ran.

That's all for dosing. I do believe that a good healthy population of fish and tons of feeding is critical for the colors I achieve. Feed lots, and filter lots is my motto.

I've found over years of experimenting that 0.03 ppm of phosphates and 5-10 ppm of nitrates is the ideal nutrient levels to keep SPS happy and well colored.

[stoneroller]

Looking forward to that! Thanks for the info. Surprised that the LED wavelengths didn't produce a bunch of algal growth, or did it?

[FarmerTy]

Looking forward to that! Thanks for the info. Surprised that the LED wavelengths didn't produce a bunch of algal growth, or did it?No problem at all. Here to help.

I didn't notice any difference with algal growth and LEDs. I consider it myth but that has just been experience with it. Others may have a different experience.

[Zack]

Aside from birds nest, do you recommend any good starter corals for a beginner getting into SPS? Specifically ones that would do well in a nano <25 gallon aquarium?

[FarmerTy]

Aside from birds nest, do you recommend any good starter corals for a beginner getting into SPS? Specifically ones that would do well in a nano <25 gallon aquarium?Digitata are forgiving of water conditions and acclimate well to potentially lower lighting that may be in a nano. Stylophoras are bullet proof, it would take a catastrophic end of world scenario to kill one... Okay, maybe not but they are pretty hardy.

Stag corals can handle a lot of things you throw at them. The only problem with nanos is they grow super fast and can easily be the dominant species in the tank within a year. Of course, most montis do well in any conditions, lighting, or even flow.

[Tristan23]

How about to most difficult sps you worked with and how did you manage to color or grow for you?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[Justin]

I really love your setup and approach and it has given me several insights into how to run my own tank. After hearing about your no water change, I started doing more research and discovered Glenn, who created the Dutch Synthetic Reefing. After reading his threads on R2R, I never went back and only do water changes to correct big issues like NO3 over dose recently. I too run a Calcium Reactor, run no Carbon or GFO and prefer to use Macro to do my filtering.

Ty, do you dose anything else for trace elements? I started reading some threads from some Aussie reefers that talk about AF vitamins for their tank inhabitants. I can't tell if there is a noticeable difference in my tank but I like to think my corals or a little more healthy with more aminos and vitamins in the water column.

What is your primary form of nutrient transport? Do you feed your coral or just broadcast feed? Frequency? What are you feeding your tank?

I could ask a ton of questions but I'll stop there.....for now :shades:

[FarmerTy]

How about to most difficult sps you worked with and how did you manage to color or grow for you?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using TapatalkAcropora abrotanoides, Acropora spathulata, and some echinatas can be very difficult.

Abrotanoides requires intense lighting, above 500 par and strong blasting currents.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170728/01d64f590d78fe33051533aad8460333.jpg

Spathulata is just very picky. Some have had success with them but they can be fine for months and then completely be dead the next day. Even more difficult is retaining the amazing colors that they come in with. They are the ultimate bait and switch, showing you amazing coloration straight from the reefs and when you purchase them, never color back up that way ever again.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170728/9912ae1deda6815dc34d779fb25776f6.jpg

Echinatas and other smooth skinned acros just generally have very little tolerance for parameter changes. I would imagine this is a product of their natural environment, where deeper waters maintain very low volatility regarding parameters, whereas shallower water can fluctuate more rapidly regarding temperature, flow, lighting, and even nutrient levels.

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[leliataylor]

I am loving this thread and thank you Ty for posting. What you have established is a viable ecosystem which allows your corals to proliferate. My question is in regards to softies. Will they thrive utilizing the same principles you have implemented on your SPS?

[FarmerTy]

I really love your setup and approach and it has given me several insights into how to run my own tank. After hearing about your no water change, I started doing more research and discovered Glenn, who created the Dutch Synthetic Reefing. After reading his threads on R2R, I never went back and only do water changes to correct big issues like NO3 over dose recently. I too run a Calcium Reactor, run no Carbon or GFO and prefer to use Macro to do my filtering.

Ty, do you dose anything else for trace elements? I started reading some threads from some Aussie reefers that talk about AF vitamins for their tank inhabitants. I can't tell if there is a noticeable difference in my tank but I like to think my corals or a little more healthy with more aminos and vitamins in the water column.

What is your primary form of nutrient transport? Do you feed your coral or just broadcast feed? Frequency? What are you feeding your tank?

I could ask a ton of questions but I'll stop there.....for now :shades:Hey Justin, I appreciate the compliment.

Glenn is a great inspiration. I started doing my method and then someone pointed me to his system. Very interesting work he's done and his results show for it.

To answer your questions, I do not dose any trace elements but had experimented with several different types of amino acid supplements over the years. I may go back to using one but currently am not using any.

Nutrient export starts with the giant, overrated skimmer for my water volume. It allows me to feed ridiculous amounts of food without causing nutrient issues. It'll remove a lot of the uneaten food and fish poop before it breaks down into ammonia/nitrite/nitrate/phosphate. What does not get removed will be handled by the biopellets(carbon dosing to remove nitrates), GFO (to remove phosphates), and carbon (as a general chemical scrub for toxins and yellowing compounds).

Only coral food is fish poop. I feel a thriving, robust fish population that is fed often and a lot is all you need. They'll in turn feed the corals. Best coloration for acros I've found is 0.03 ppm for phosphates and 5-10 ppm for acros. I feed 3-5 times a day between frozen foods (rods, LRS, mysis, blood worms, and live black worms, NLS pellets, and nori.

[FarmerTy]

I am loving this thread and thank you Ty for posting. What you have established is a viable ecosystem which allows your corals to proliferate. My question is in regards to softies. Will they thrive utilizing the same principles you have implemented on your SPS?Happy to contribute!

I don't really keep any softies but I couldn't see why the same principles of my setup would not be functional for softies. The main changes would be lower par in general in the tank, increase my nutrient levels a bit which would be easily done by using less media in the biopellet reactor and less GFO if any. The calcium reactor would maintain ideal ratios of the foundation elements regarding Ca, alk, and Mg, which believe it or not, softies actually uptake in small degrees.

Feeding a ton would be beneficial to the softies as well as long as there isn't a nutrient issue if not enough is also exported... Though typically they have more of a tolerance for higher nutrients as a whole.

[scuba_steveo]

Great thread and wonderful information for an old hobbyist looking to get back in. Looks like a lot has changed since I blasted my tank with 1600 W of metal halide. Thanks!

[FarmerTy]

Great thread and wonderful information for an old hobbyist looking to get back in. Looks like a lot has changed since I blasted my tank with 1600 W of metal halide. Thanks!Welcome back to the obsession. I remember those days... I was blasting 1200 W myself. :o

[alton]

Bringing this thread back up to the front with pictures of corals in my office tank that I got from Ty. Proving Sps can grow in almost any type of water.
The first picture is from May and the last from today

[FarmerTy]

Bringing this thread back up to the front with pictures of corals in my office tank that I got from Ty. Proving Sps can grow in almost any type of water.
The first picture is from May and the last from today

Nice Alton! You're an SPS growing machine!

[Reefnub]

Looks good Alton! Nice to see you adding more sps to your tank.

[rocketeer]

Inspirational. I've been experimenting with different amounts of GFO but have no confidence in my testing. Hanna comes up 0 every time. Red Sea gives me readings from .02 to .06 but it's hard to read. I bought Hanna calibration fluid and it measured within the error allowed. I would be more confident if I could get two test kits to measure anywhere near each other. What do you use?

Jack

[alton]

To control Phosphates in my 180 I use and like Rowaphos the best, but at a reduced level. In the past I have used Phosban and BRS. As far as test you need some phosphate as well as nitrate, but at levels that do not allow hair algae. Gary Powell once explained to me if you have hair algae you have phosphates no matter what your test shows. The hair algae uses up the phosphates, take away all hair algae and your phosphates will show up on your test. I like the Red Sea test, but very seldom test. When I was trying to rid my tank of bubble algae I watched closely to strip my tank of phosphates. The bubble algae slowed slightly, but my coraline algae and corals suffered big time. For the most part I use Green Star Polyps to keep Phosphates in check, and sometimes use NoPox from Redsea.

[rocketeer]

Interesting about the GSPs. What does it mean when you have a continuous cyano bloom but no hair algae. Coulerpa is growing slowly. Some sea grass I have grows pretty well. Chaeto doesn't thrive. Red Sea registers PO4 at .02 to .06. Hanna is always 0. Nitrate stays around 0 to 1ppm with Salifert. Does cyanobacteria out compete hair algae for PO4 or should I look for something else in there that cyano just loves?

[alton]

I get cyano once a year maybe and always have for 20 years? I use chemi clean and I don't see it for another year or so. I always blamed it on not changing my Ro Filters in time. I know bio pellets cause it also, I have seen it first hand plus heard others complain.