Who is using pellet reactors?

[BBQHILLBILLY]

BR2000SS pellet reactor currently in use with Ecobak plus pelletshttps://vimeo.com/177452546


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[alton]

I took mine off line when I lost half of my Euphyllia, evidently the manufacture of the pellet makes a big difference in working out or disaster

[BBQHILLBILLY]

I agree and sold off all my Acans and europhylia. Im leaning towards Sps and zoas. Trying to find that balance to keep zoas. I've ran 250 ml of Ecobak pellets in a different reactor for a couple of months and did ok. After adding the 180 to the 210 with one sump with all the fish and food, I realized I needed this br2000ss. Currently holding close to 1000ml and and should be at 1250ml by the end of the week. I have pulled macro and trying to find homes for the Xenia so there are no phosphate sponges if you will call it that . Pompoms everywhere lol


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

I am interested in getting a hammerhead and I do have one acan left.


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

Alton you can grow europhylia and Acans with a small dose of pellets. So you can still use pellet to control your nitrates and phosphates and have europhylia, Acans, and softies . Just don't run it at full strength . Obviously you need some phosphates for the coral. Now you can dose reef energy and other foods for your softies. As a matter of fact I encourage it.


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

Description
ecoBAK PLUS bio pellets are a unique multi-Polymer, multi-Carbon media that reduces Nitrate, Phosphate, undesirable algae and organic waste.

ecoBAK PLUS is a blend of biodegradable polymers that serve as a stable and consistent organic Carbon source, a food source and substrate for bacterial strains that consume organic compounds. ecoBAK PLUS reduces nuisance algae, clarifies water and supplies Planktonic bacteria as a food source for corals in the reef aquarium. ecoBAK PLUS works naturally with NO harmful chemical additives.

Compared to the standard ecoBAK, the ecoBAK PLUS is more aggressive and faster acting. The greater resulting bacterial diversity will result in elimination of more nuisance alage incuding Cyanobacteria.

EcoBAK PLUS requires the use of a properly sized and efficient protein skimmer to export the additional waste produced as the EcoBAK PLUS cleans the aquarium. EcoBAK PLUS is most effective when used in a fluidized media reactor with the output directed into the same area as the protein skimmer intake.

Usage:

Use 250ml per 50 gallons of water volume. Rinse the ecoBAK PLUS pellets in purified fresh water. The pellets can be soaked overnight to reduce floating pellets. Add the rinsed pellets into a fluidized bio-pellet media reactor. Attach a small pump to the reactor and adjust flow to approximately 100gph per liter of ecoBAK PLUS. The proper amount of flow will create a gentle tumbling effect inside the reactor. Direct the output of the reactor into the same area as the protein skimmer pump intake. Within 3-4 weeks the ecoBAK PLUS will be sufficiently colonized with bacteria to begin reducing organic compounds. Aquariums with high bio-load may experience a short period of temporary water cloudiness.

Tips for best performance:

Start off with 1/3 of the recommended dosage of ecoBAK and add another 1/3 every week until a full dosage is employed.
Remember to run a GENTLE tumble. An overly aggressive tumble is counter productive.

Aquariums with very high Nitrate and Phosphate (Nitrate 40ppm+, Phosphate 2ppm+) should start off slowly, with 1/4 dosage of ecoBAK PLUS, confirm proper function of protein skimmer and confirm that circulation pumps are running and agitating the water surface.

Make sure your protein skimmer is properly rated for your aquarium. Protein skimmer manufacturers frequently exaggerate the capacity ratings of their skimmers.

Replace ecoBAK PLUS as it is consumed by bacteria.


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

And the source
http://m.marinedepot.com/products/wm12921/warner-marine-ecobak-plus-biopellet-filter-media


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[Reefnub]

Looks like the flow on the pellets is a bit much from my Experience. The reactor should give you a even flow from under the pellets and a slow tumble but it looks like the flow in that reactor is directional and only certain areas are getting blasted while other areas are not moving. Maybe you can adjust? From what I understand you should put 1/3 the pellets in and see how that affects your nit and phos and adjust with more or less pellets to find the happy place. Good luck!

[BBQHILLBILLY]

I'm at 1250 ml for 500 gallons. I ran 250ml for a couple months. I'm stopping there and see what happens. I would like to see if anybody is using the pellets. We could help each other out. I ran brs pellets several years back and didn't have a good experience. I like the Ecobak plus very much


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

Reefnub how many pellets did you run? The 1/3 is recommended for starting and slowly increasing.


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[Reefnub]

I ran the ecobak plus for a yr but had too many and it gave me cyano which was said to not happen with those pellets. Corals where Pail so I pulled the pellets. I started out in another tank using brs pellets which worked ok but were messy then moved to ecobak reagular and had great success. I will probably go back to the ecobak plus but with less pellets and see if I can manage to not have cyano.

[Reefnub]

Reefnub how many pellets did you run? The 1/3 is recommended for starting and slowly increasing.


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I have a 190g tank and with sump I believe I'm around 215 220g and ran 500ml of pellets.

[BBQHILLBILLY]

Thanks for the feedback. From what I read and I can't remember all of it. Cyano created possibly when there are no phosphates , just thinking. So it made sense that you had sucked all the phosphates and nitrates out and everything looked pale and cyano was created. Correct me if I'm wrong . The reviews that I've read are encouraging feeding the tank a lot to prevent this from happening. Also 1250 is half my recommended dose. So I'm happy at that spot for now.


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

In addition to dosing calcium, magnesium, and alkalinity, I also dose acropower. I also feed the tank heavy in. The evenings with all the fish In the tanks.


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[Reefnub]

Thanks for the feedback. From what I read and I can't remember all of it. Cyano created possibly when there are no phosphates , just thinking. So it made sense that you had sucked all the phosphates and nitrates out and everything looked pale and cyano was created. Correct me if I'm wrong . The reviews that I've read are encouraging feeding the tank a lot to prevent this from happening. Also 1250 is half my recommended dose. So I'm happy at that spot for now.


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From what I have read the pellets will suck all the nit out and leave you with phos in which the balance is then off causing cyano. You always want more nit than phos. Yes feed a lot to help with the sps not to fade. I just think I had too many pellets (full dose) and it was sucking my tank of too many nutrients causing a lot of different issues for me. I'll go back to them with less and if I can keep a little nitrate while using pellets then I win.

[BBQHILLBILLY]

I saw the reviews that there are a little more phosphates than nitrates but that doesn't cause the cyano. That makes a good discussion. I think the imbalance is the norm. I think you need phosphates for the bacteria to eat. It's when you have no phosphates that cyano a is created and I could be totally wrong. Hence the advice to feed the tank heavy.


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[Reefnub]

In addition to dosing calcium, magnesium, and alkalinity, I also dose acropower. I also feed the tank heavy in. The evenings with all the fish In the tanks.


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From my experience of using both acropower and fuel I believe fuel works the best and after using the rest of my acropower I'm switching back. Just my experience tho. But yes feed a lot lol I used to feed so much that while I had the pumps off for 1-1/2hr and let the food blow around and all you could see was food lol but this was in my 65g

[FarmerTy]

I've used biopellets for almost 5 years now, starting with ecobak and then their ecobak + formulation.

The key to biopellets is to use just enough but allow for some residual nitrates in the water column. I generally aim to leave 5 ppm-8 ppm of nitrates in the water and not strip the tank entirely. It helps to have a recirculating model that allows you to tumble independently of effluent flow, so you can slow down the output of the reactor but allow it to still tumble the pellets at a good rate.

FWIW, based on the video you supplied, I agree with reefnub that you should slow the flow down. It just needs to be a gentle tumble. If you go too fast on the flow, you'll not allow the bacteria contact time to utilize the carbon food source and you'll also mechanically grind the pellets and release carbon into the water column in your system. This allows the bacterial growth to escape the reactor and cause a much higher bacterial population in the main system itself. While not detrimental outright, I do not trust that concentrated of a bacterial population to not cause issues down the line.

Also, I've found over the years that a little goes a long way. I use almost a quarter of the recommended amount on my 215 gallon tank. It keeps my nitrates at 5 ppm with a large population of fish and a very heavy feeding regiment.

Average feeding at night with pellets fed on autofeeder 5 times throughout day.
https://youtu.be/8QtJVsYNtOI

Just to be clear, biopellets are mainly a tool used to lower nitrates. Any phosphate removal is usually just a bonus as the bacteria mostly uptake nitrates in a much higher ratio than phosphate. I've always found I needed to still run a phosphate remover such as GFO to scrub the residual phosphate in the system.

Cyano can fix its own nitrogen and has a competitive advantage once the biopellets strip the nitrates out of the water, hence why some see cyano growth while using biopellets. I've found the GFO helps with this as well as not tumbling too quick and releasing carbon into the water column for the cyano to uptake.

[BBQHILLBILLY]

A lot of good write ups on cyano and what causes it. The goal is to have other bacteria out compete the cyano. Curious then read a review that said people dosed vinegar and had no cyano.


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

Thanks for the feedback . That's the 2nd recommendation to slow my pellets down. Interesting the pellet moving has to do with the water level in the sump. I do agree when running pellets hard more pellets will break .So it's try to balance the water level in the tank and have the right pellet movement.


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[Reefnub]

I've used biopellets for almost 5 years now, starting with ecobak and then their ecobak + formulation.

The key to biopellets is to use just enough but allow for some residual nitrates in the water column. I generally aim to leave 5 ppm-8 ppm of nitrates in the water and not strip the tank entirely. It helps to have a recirculating model that allows you to tumble independently of effluent flow, so you can slow down the output of the reactor but allow it to still tumble the pellets at a good rate.

FWIW, based on the video you supplied, I agree with reefnub that you should slow the flow down. It just needs to be a gentle tumble. If you go too fast on the flow, you'll not allow the bacteria contact time to utilize the carbon food source and you'll also mechanically grind the pellets and release carbon into the water column in your system. This allows the bacterial growth to escape the reactor and cause a much higher bacterial population in the main system itself. While not detrimental outright, I do not trust that concentrated of a bacterial population to not cause issues down the line.

Also, I've found over the years that a little goes a long way. I use almost a quarter of the recommended amount on my 215 gallon tank. It keeps my nitrates at 5 ppm with a large population of fish and a very heavy feeding regiment.

Average feeding at night with pellets fed on autofeeder 5 times throughout day.
https://youtu.be/8QtJVsYNtOI

Just to be clear, biopellets are mainly a tool used to lower nitrates. Any phosphate removal is usually just a bonus as the bacteria mostly uptake nitrates in a much higher ratio than phosphate. I've always found I needed to still run a phosphate remover such as GFO to scrub the residual phosphate in the system.

Cyano can fix its own nitrogen and has a competitive advantage once the biopellets strip the nitrates out of the water, hence why some see cyano growth while using biopellets. I've found the GFO helps with this as well as not tumbling too quick and releasing carbon into the water column for the cyano to uptake.

What do you use to soak up your phos and how much and do you use a reactor? How often do you have to clean the glass and how bad is the glass when you do clean it? What test kit do you use for phos and not? Just curios so sorry for all the questions.

[BBQHILLBILLY]

Very interesting . I was under the impression to remove all phosphate sponges . So I've been removing my macoalgae and pompoms out of the tank. I have high capacity Gfo and a reactor sitting on the side not being used.


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

Reefnub you scared him away :)


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[FarmerTy]

What do you use to soak up your phos and how much and do you use a reactor? How often do you have to clean the glass and how bad is the glass when you do clean it? What test kit do you use for phos and not? Just curios so sorry for all the questions.

Hey Reefnub,

I use your standard GFO, not the high-capacity stuff, in a simple BRS reactor. I'd highly recommend using GFO always in a reactor and not just passively in a bag.

I clean my glass about every 4-6 days on average but I've had my UV sterilizer off during this timeframe. Usually with my UV sterilizer on, it's about 6-8 days.

I use my Hanna (ultra low range) meter that measures phosporus in parts per billion. I then convert the results to phosphate in parts per million.

[FarmerTy]

Very interesting . I was under the impression to remove all phosphate sponges . So I've been removing my macoalgae and pompoms out of the tank. I have high capacity Gfo and a reactor sitting on the side not being used.


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I can only speak to what I've experienced. In my system, there is always a residual amount of phosphate left so I run GFO to scrub it down to 0.03 ppm. I do feed more than the average reefer so perhaps it is just a symptom of the system I run. I've heard of some that are able to do away with phosphate removing media entirely when using biopellets. I'm just not one of them.

[FarmerTy]

Reefnub you scared him away :)


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It's those dang day jobs that get in the way sometimes. :cry_smile:

[BBQHILLBILLY]

Work work work ok so you have with success ran Gfo with your pellets. My regular Gfo would clog up even though I made sure it tumbled on top. I went to the high capacity because it doesn't clog up and I can use half the amount of regular. Just thinking there . Again I was under the assumption that their needed to be phosphates for the bacteria to eat and colonize to out compete the cyano which don't need it. Correct me if I'm wrong. I just want to make sure I have the right hat on and thinking the right way. Thanks for the feedback


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

So I brainstormed a bit and summarized these 2 sentences. Pellets are made of polymer that feed bacteria which use the pellets as carbon to consume phosphate and nitrates. The reactor is controlling the bacteria in a container and not the display tank like vodka or nopox.


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

Working from that , if their are no phosphate or nitrates then the bacteria will die and cyano will grow by other means. Now the question is how does the beneficial bacteria out compete cyano?
Ahh I think the cyano will now feed off the polymer. In which case there is no nutrients i.e. Phosphates, nitrates.

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[FarmerTy]

Yes, I think it's good to know experimentally what your own system does. Since you already removed phosphate removing reactors/specimens, run the biopellet reactor for about 4 weeks and once its fully online, test for phosphates and nitrates. If you read zero for nitrates, remove some biopellets until you get a residual of 5 ppm. Now test for phosphates. If you have anything over 0.1 ppm phosphates, I would employ GFO at that time to scrub the residual down to 0.03-0.05 ppm if you're going SPS-dominant.

Correct, the benefit of a reactor is that all that bacterial growth is isolated within the reactor and not increasing your bacterial populations in the display. This is assuming you plumb your biopellet reactor directly to your skimmer. This can be achieved by simply using a PVC tee over the skimmer input and sticking the effluent tube in one of the other holes allowing the 3rd hole to still pull additional water from the sump.

Yes, cyano can feed off the carbon polymer which is why I suggested slowing your flow to not release any carbon into the display. The goal is to reduce nitrates and phosphates to levels low enough that cyano and algae not be able to flourish. I find that on occassion, cyano gets a foothold and outcompetes for available nutrients. A simple dose of red slime remover clears it and allows for natural bacterial populations to win out again and I don't ever see the cyano again.

[BBQHILLBILLY]

That's understood. And the goal slow tumble and never get 0 on nutrients. So the next step in thinking is bringing in another form of bacteria like vinegar or vodka in the display to make sure cyano don't pop it's head. Thanks to all the feedback and I think we have shared some good info


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[FarmerTy]

No problem. My thoughts are to keep one nutrient method isolated as is to allow for better observation of its impact. If you do get cyano, if you want to experiment with other sources of carbon, then maybe look into it at that time.

[BBQHILLBILLY]

I came across a thread from an experienced reefer last night whom recommended dosing microbacter7 weekly. I ordered and on the way. Does anybody dose other bacteria into their pellets? Here's my link to the source .
http://melevsreef.com/node/196


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[Reefnub]

Yea I dosed m7 as well when I was running pellets

[FarmerTy]

Many dose to jumpstart their bacterial population during initial startup of the biopellets. I consider additions to the bacterial population redundant once established but that's just my opinion. I've never needed to do that to run a successful reef.

[BBQHILLBILLY]

Thanks for the feedback and the goal here is to be successful running pellets . My Reef is doing good. The bacteria die off is replenished with m7. That's why it was recommended.


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

Yea I dosed m7 as well when I was running pellets

How much m7 were/are you dosing per gallons?


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

Many dose to jumpstart their bacterial population during initial startup of the biopellets. I consider additions to the bacterial population redundant once established but that's just my opinion. I've never needed to do that to run a successful reef.

The more I read the more I see too much bacteria causing a bacteria bloom is not good. Good tip


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[Reefnub]

How much m7 were/are you dosing per gallons?


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I just dosed the recommended dose stated on the bottle per gallon but can't remember know as its been a little while. Ive heard of people only dosing m7 at the beginning also and stopping. I also stopped for a while and saw no difference once the pellets have started working.

[BBQHILLBILLY]

It's 5ml, one capful, per 50 gallons, I think. I was thinking 1 ml per week sprayed directly into the pellets is what I'm thinking of doing.


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

Interestingly enough , Ecobak plus includes this Bacteria in a vile that I never used . Here's a pichttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160805/a6ef47b3321dd1c0bc61ca82c86be37b.jpg


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[Reefnub]

Toss it in

[BBQHILLBILLY]

My luck my skimmer pump went out lol anybody have this pumphttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160806/9b26f7855c48204838b46f460fd358e3.jpg


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[Reefnub]

How long have you had this pump? Just curios because it's DC

[BBQHILLBILLY]

Its been very good to me for many years and I bought used at that. Soooo do I go to a 2 head skimmer monster ? Footprint is maybe 16 x 16 and pellets are turned off :(


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

Phew ran pump in vinegar and it's working . Need pump replacement


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[mkengr45]

Phew ran pump in vinegar and it's working . Need pump replacement


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As much as it hurts I almost always have backup hardware for certain equipment. Return pump, skimmer pump, MH ballast, bulbs, reactor pumps, dosers, ph-salinity-temp probes....

Pretty much the only thing I don't have backup for is the LED lighting.

On the pellet reactor topic though....I've never used them but have been curious.

[BBQHILLBILLY]

I have 2 darts . So I have a backup there . Your right I'm in the hunt for skimmer pump backup. The container on top of this reef octopus is 12 in. Got lucky for now


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

After reading biopellet reviews, I am leaning to to dosing Zeobak . Any reviews with Zeobak and pellets?? Lmk


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

I'll start adding microbacter7, Zeobak, and coral snow starting this next weekend.


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[LuckySingh]

I have used bio pellets once couple years ago and every thing went colorless pale ugly and some died ... once the tank gets matured it consumes nutrients on its own ... I use marine marine pure blocks in sump with only 15lbs of live rock in my 50gln display and haven't tested nitrates in over a year .. Every thing seemed thriving without an issue . I also dose Prodibio with some zeo products .... No filters no skimmer or any carbon or reactors in my tank .

[BBQHILLBILLY]

I have read good things about prodibio. I only started pellets because of all the fish I have and algae started to smile in the tank . Lol I used pellets before with no success. Trying again. I was dosing nopox and I noticed it was working but I was getting slimey bacteria towards the skimmer area. So figured if I could try to control bacteria to a container no slime to look at. If it don't work again ill go back to my my monster refug and vinegar dosing. Agai in trying to control nitrates and phosphates in a 500gallon setup with a large bioload and grow Sps and other corals.


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[BBQHILLBILLY]

Lucky I saw you said no skimmer. I tried that on a 40 breeder. Just used macro algae . I would never do that again. I'm glad it works for you and your coral look very nice. This is about pellets and I'm going to try to make it work. I'm sorry they didn't work for you.


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