Lowest cost and easiest way to eliminate green hair, bubble, turf and slime algae

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Lowest cost and easiest way to eliminate green hair, bubble, turf and slime algae from your aquarium (hopefully permanently).

This new test version of the algae scrubber is much easier to build than the waterfall version (the Mega Powerful one), and is perfect for nano's. This new scrubber has never been posted before May 2012. It works in both freshwater and saltwater.

If you are like most aquatic hobbyists, nuisance algae is an ongoing problem. You try to feed your livestock, and the next thing you know, you get algae. You've already tried many fixes; some work but are expensive; some kind of work but you're not sure; and some just don't work at all.

Think about what is happening: Your aquarium is accumulating nutrients (nitrate and phosphate) because of the food you feed. Algae eat nitrate and phosphate to grow, so the algae are having a great time growing in your water because they are eating all your nutrients! What to do?

Well think about this: In order to grow, algae must be provided with nitrate and phosphate. So why can't you just use the algae to consume all the nitrate and phosphate? The answer: You can! How? With a simple device you build called an Upflow Algae Scrubber. It's simple, cheap, and you can make a small one in just a few minutes with parts you probably already have. I'll be posting more complex versions later, but here are some pics of the most basic design that you can use for testing:

(will be updated periodically)
http://www.algaescrubber.net/Post1.jpg




An "algae scrubber" is a simple filter that actually grows algae in the filter, so that the algae do not grow in other parts of your aquarium. Simply put, the conditions for algae growth inside the filter are better than the conditions in the rest of your aquarium; thus the algae grow in the filter instead of your aquarium, and then you just remove the algae from the filter and throw the algae away. But in order for the algae to grow in the filter, the algae need to consume nitrate and phosphate; so guess where the nitrate and phosphate come from? Your water!

If you stop and think about it, algae always grow in certain spots, and not in others. This is because some of the three growing conditions (light, flow, nutrients) are better in some parts of your water than they are in others. An "upflow algae scrubber" simply optimizes these conditions, and does so at a place where the algae can be easily removed and thrown away. And once the nitrate and phosphate have been removed from your water, all other nuisance algae such as green hair, bubble, turf and slime, will have a hard time staying alive.

So where have these filters been all this time, and why haven't you heard of them if they work so well? Well the original waterfall version (the Mega Powerful thread posted in August 2008) was hard to build, and was not really for sale anywhere; so unless you liked to build things from scratch, you had no choice but to buy some other kind of filter. All the filter really needed to do was to create good growing conditions (light, flow, nutrients) for the algae, by flowing the water across a piece of rough material, so that the algae would grow on the material instead of somewhere else in the aquarium. The waterfall algae scrubber did grow lots of algae in the filter, and it removed lots of algae from aquariums: Over 1,000 people built their own waterfall algae scrubbers, and reported their results on various forums during a 4 year period; almost all of them wiped out their nuisance algae within 8 weeks, and many did so in 4 weeks. And on other forums that I never posted on, an estimated 10,000 people built their own waterfall algae scrubbers with similar results.

A little over a year ago in April 2011, another idea came along: Instead of letting the water flow down a screen like a waterfall, how about you let the water flow up the screen using air bubbles? Why? Because as good as waterfall algae scrubbers are, they still need a place for the water to drain "down" to. This means that you need to have a sump below the aquarium, or you need to have the scrubber up above the aquarium. This is not easy, and is very difficult for a nano aquarium which usually has no sump below it, and no room above it. Also, the waterfall version requires it to be out of the water (in the air), which takes up extra space. The new "upflow" version, however, can be placed inside the aquarium, so that it takes up no extra space at all, and it needs no external plumbing or water pumps at all. Only air bubbles.

The Upflow Algae Scrubber (UAS) provides the best growing conditions for algae in your tank: Air bubbles provide rapid turbulent flow; Strong lighting provides the light; and the nutrients that are already in your water provide the nitrate and phosphate. All that's needed is a place for the algae to attach to, and that is provided by the roughed-up plastic screen. Thus the algae start growing on the screen because the flow and lighting are stronger there than they are in the rest of your aquarium; nitrate and phosphate are consumed in the process. This causes algae to start disappearing from your aquarium and start re-appearing on the scrubber screen, so that you can throw the algae away every week or two.

The most basic way to set up an Upflow Algae Scrubber, especially in small aquariums, is just to put some air bubbles beneath a vertical screen. If inside an aquarium, you just put a light on the outside of the glass, so that it shines inside to the screen. And if you want better performance (which means better filtering), just add a reflector to give the screen some light on both sides. The screen is best made with 7-mesh cross stitch plastic canvas that you get at sewing or craft stores, or online. Also, don't forget to rough up the screen with a sharp object like a hole saw; the screen should be so rough that the screen holes are almost filled in with all the little pieces of plastic that you roughed up.

One thing to remember is that an Upflow Algae Scrubber (or any algae scrubber) will not cause more algae to grow in your aquarium. Instead, the algae will disappear from your aquarium, and will start to grow on the scrubber screen instead. You then just remove the screen and scrape the algae off. And here's a surprise: Watch out for your fish or snails eating your filter! There's nothing tastier than live green algae, so your fish or snails may keep your screen from getting very thick. The simple solution is to just put some mesh or netting around it.

There are a couple of requirements that have been learned since August 2008 which will get you started quicker. The size of the Upflow Algae Scrubber that is needed is based on how much you feed, and not how much water you have, because the nutrients that cause algae to grow come from the food you feed. The following updated picture has size guidelines:

(will be updated periodically; if picture cuts off, open in new window)
http://algaescrubber.net/Sizing.jpg




And the following updated picture has examples:

(will be updated periodically; if picture cuts off, open in new window)
http://algaescrubber.net/Examples.jpg




So build a UAS and post your pictures!
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[Mike]

Anyone try this?

[Reefer madness92]

Defenetly going to I'm gonna use the one of the ten watt LEDs that helped shock me on it can't wait, the only reason I don't have a scrubber is cause of the above or below rule. I love projects :heart:

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Looking forward to seeing your design! Don't make it permanent though, there is a new version coming up every month.

[SantaMonicaHelp]

OK some growth pics...

Floyd R Turbo on the GIRS site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasFloydrturboOnAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasFloydrturboOnAS-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasFloydrturboOnAS-3.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasFloydrturboOnAS-4.jpg



Rkyrickstr on the TF site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasRkyrickstrOnAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasRkyrickstrOnAS-2.jpg



Ruddybop on the MFK site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasRuddybopOnMFK-1.JPG



Fishuntbike on the scrubber site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasFishuntbikeOnAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasFishuntbikeOnAS-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasFishuntbikeOnAS-3.jpg



And mine...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasSantaMonica-1.jpg

[SantaMonicaHelp]

The new Hang-On-Glass UAS with bubble remover:

http://www.algaescrubber.net/Post2.jpg

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Everybody loves growth pictures:

Day 1:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/hog.5-7.jpg

Day 2:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/hog.5-8.jpg

Day 3:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/hog.5-9.jpg

Day 4:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/hog.5-10.jpg

Day 5:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/hog.5-11.jpg

Day 6:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/hog.5-12.jpg

Day 7:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/hog.5-13.jpg

Day 8:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/hog.5-14.jpg

Day 9:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/hog.5-15.jpg

7 Days of growth after first cleaning:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/hog.5-16.jpg

Video of first cleaning after 9 days of growth from a new screen:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0K4UCp9_aA

Video of 7 days of growth after the first cleaning:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o14culabk7k


Time to eat more TV dinners and save those trays :)

[SantaMonicaHelp]

http://algaescrubber.net/Post3.jpg

[rrasco]

Where can I find more information on the hang on glass UAS?

[SantaMonicaHelp]

You can check algaescrubber.net

[rrasco]

Yeah, I found that after poking around on Google for awhile. I also found your site. Thanks.

[Big_Pun]

accidental turf scrubber on Emily 20g, aquaclear hob filter. filter has grape culerpa in it also. she has no algae problems, she cleans off most the algae when it starts to over hangs into display.

http://img.tapatalk.com/48b27602-6f43-7635.jpg

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Some UAS builds...

"Acorral" on the scrubber site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasAcorralOnAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasAcorralOnAS-2.jpg




"Badfish" on the RC site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasBadfishOnRC-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasBadfishOnRC-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasBadfishOnRC-3.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasBadfishOnRC-4.jpg




"Cmaxtian" on the scrubber site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasCmaxtianOnAS-1.jpg




"Deneed4spd" onthe TCMAS site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasDeneed4spdOnTCMAS-1.jpg




"Ewerd" on the scrubber site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasEwerdOnAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasEwerdOnAS-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasEwerdOnAS-3.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasEwerdOnAS-4.jpg




"Fishuntbike" on the scrubber site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasFishuntbikeOnAS-4.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasFishuntbikeOnAS-5.jpg




"FloydRturbo" on the scrubber site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasFloydrturboOnAS-5.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasFloydrturboOnAS-6.jpg




"Hugbert" on the scrubber site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasHugbertOnAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasHugbertOnAS-2.jpg

[SantaMonicaHelp]

"Jaz" on the scrubber site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasJazOnAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasJazOnAS-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasJazOnAS-3.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasJazOnAS-4.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasJazOnAS-5.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasJazOnAS-6.jpg




"Kalgra" on the R2R site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasKalgraOnR2R-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasKalgraOnR2R-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasKalgraOnR2R-3.jpg




"KelliZackMOMon"on the LR site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasKelliZackMOMonLR-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasKelliZackMOMonLR-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasKelliZackMOMonLR-3.jpg




"MorganAtlanta"on the scrubber site;
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasMorganatlantaOnAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasMorganatlantaOnAS-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasMorganatlantaOnAS-3.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasMorganatlantaOnAS-4.jpg




"Octavia-vrs"on the UR site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasOctavia-vrsOnUR-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasOctavia-vrsOnUR-2.jpg

[SantaMonicaHelp]

"Othello"on the scrubber site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasOthelloOnAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasOthelloOnAS-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasOthelloOnAS-3.jpg




"OwenReefin"on the PNWMAS site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasOwenReefinOnPNWMAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasOwenReefinOnPNWMAS-2.jpg




"Pecker115"on the UR site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasPecker115onUR-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasPecker115onUR-2.jpg




"Cermet" on the AC site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasCermetOnAC-1.jpg




"Promazine"on the UR site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasPromazineOnUR-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasPromazineOnUR-2.jpg




"Bobba" on the scrubber site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasBobbaOnAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasBobbaOnAS-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasBobbaOnAS-3.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasBobbaOnAS-4.jpg




"Reefnjunkie"on the PNWMAS site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasReefnjunkieOnPNWMAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasReefnjunkieOnPNWMAS-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasReefnjunkieOnPNWMAS-3.jpg




"RkyRickstr"on the scrubber site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasRkyRickstrOnAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasRkyRickstrOnAS-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasRkyRickstrOnAS-3.jpg

[SantaMonicaHelp]

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasRkyRickstrOnAS-4.jpg




"Ruddybop"on the MFK site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasRuddybopOnMFK-2.JPG

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasRuddybopOnMFK-3.JPG

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasRuddybopOnMFK-4.JPG




"Smann" on the PNWMAS site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasSmannOnPNWMAS-1.jpg




"Strayrex" on the UR site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasStrayrexOnUR-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasStrayrexOnUR-2.jpg



"Swhite" on the scrubber site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasSwhiteOnAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasSwhiteOnAS-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasSwhiteOnAS-3.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasSwhiteOnAS-4.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasSwhiteOnAS-5.jpg




"Tonymar"on the scrubber site:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasTonymarOnAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasTonymarOnAS-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasTonymarOnAS-3.jpg

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Here is the new post. :)
http://www.algaescrubber.net/Post4.jpg

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Important videos to help you understand algae filtering...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qfMaBeLwiO4 - Ocean Productivity
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7d96F0ak4uY - Photosynthesis part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTBlq3gUv5Y - Food Chains vs. Food Webs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwZDIU6sM_4& - Nutrients and Primary Production
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SnlCx7mVcZ4 - Chlorophyll
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtZ75KW2t-U - Zooplankton and Primary Production
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quH4x640Jgs - Bacteria
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdIjMQATQks - Food Webs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bc_fGWjmNeI - Microbial Food Web
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQaE0e0iD3s - Trophic Pyramids

[SantaMonicaHelp]

New update:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/P5.jpg

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Some more successes from waterfall scrubbers:

Damon on the IM site: "I have been completely skimmer less for over a month now, and my ats has brought my nitrates from off the chart above 50ppm and with yesterday's test it has come down to 5 on the high end with color choosing(can't wait for a Hanna to make a nitrate). I am extremely happy with my ats as it is now, but I do believe I'm going to build a second one next to it. I built this size for a small (75-90g heavy bioload), but I'm going to add a second one that will be a more professional build quality now that I have figured out how I want it to run. I still love the fact that I have dropped $25 a month in electricity, haven't done a water change in a month while still dropping nitrates and getting amazing coral growth. The best part is I am making these to utilize my overflow drains, so in essence I adding a more efficient form of filtration without adding any heat or extra electricity. I can't report on long term results as I've only been running an ats since last fall. But from where my tank was to where it is now is enough for me to jump ship, lol."

Kerry on the scrubber site: "I was hard for me to believe that this device worked. It took about a year before I built one and now I wish I knew about this years ago. Who would have thought algae would provide so much success? I even have one on my 150G FW Jack Dempsey tank as well. And yes, its so nice not to have a skimmer anymore!!!!"

Reefkeeper2 on the RC site: "I run a skimmer, biopellets and an ATS. The skimmer and the pellets worked well keeping nitrates at 0, but there was room for improvement with phosphate control. I tried GFO, and lanthanum. My sps do not like the GFO. I got STN often when I changed it out. The lanthanum worked, but was very labor intensive and so unpractical. The ATS did the trick nicely. I have been a reefer for a very long time. I think I have tried every method of nutrient control thought up by anyone. I really enjoy trying out new ideas and trying to improve on old ones. I have to say that this combination has worked the best of all I have tried over the years."

N728NY on the RC site: "Just chiming in to say I really hope this thread keeps going! Lots of good info. I'm still pretty new to keeping a reef tank. I have been running a scrubber with my skimmer for the past three months. Before then I could never get my nitrates below 15, and since I added my scrubber I never been able to detect any nitrates, even after feeding twice as much. I know with my 75 gallon set up, I made my scrubber slightly over sized (sized for 100 gallons) and I dump huge amounts of pellets and frozen shrimp in my tank on top of spot feeding my corals on a regular basis and I still have yet to register any nitrates on my test kit. Being that I'm still new I still haven't built up the courage to unplug the skimmer yet. I may try it once I know for sure my scrubber is fully matured, got plenty of ro water made up and salt ready just in case I need to do an emergency water change lol. I still have a clump of cheato left that I suppose would be good back up if the scrubber couldn't keep up. The cheato doesn't really grow very much right now because of the scrubber. I love these scrubbers, I'm so glad I took the time to read "both sides" of the arguments on them to find out the facts about them."

Kentth on the scrubber site: "overall the tank is much healthier, a lot of feather dusters, coming out of the rocks, yellow sponges, other opaque sponges. big thing is no water changes for over 8 months, almost no silt, it has really cut my maintenance"

Langtudatinh01 on the RC site: "i completely redo my 40B with the ATS from beginning, i barely see much algae on my display tank but i now have a mature ATS. i relocated all my fish and add another one without any issue. the dead rocks i use bleach quite a lot of phosphate back into the water, but the ATS has handle the issue like a cham. i do not see much algae on my display. everything is green like grass down at the ATS. i am very happy so far.'

Bicolour on the MFUK site: "quick update, so my ats has been running since [6 weeks ago] and i gotta say all the algea in my tank and on the sand has gone, wow. gotta say it was well worth doing. i dont monitor growth at the moment but this is something i will be doing in the future, my set up was basic costing very little as i wanted to try this before i really looked into the idea. very impressed and can only say if you got space look into it"

Rysher on the RC site: "i have a 6x9 screen, 1 inch is submerged so only 6x8 is really used, i also have a 40b. it has been my only form of filtration ever since i started the tank [months ago], i feed almost 2 cubes a day, only have 2 fishes but u cant see any algae on my DT, almost non existent film algae too, i clean my DT glass maybe once a week."

Packman90 on the RC site: "I have a 72 Gallon bow front and until a couple of months ago I was going to throw my tank away and give up on saltwater tanks all together. I was brand new, took a lot of advice, started my system and watched as it became more and more green, until i found out about scrubbers. I lost all of the coral frags I bought, about $400.00 worth, and just felt that I would never get it. I have it now, and just bought my first new frags in over 8 months. Thanks to all of you scrubbers out there who showed me the way. Here is the tank after the scrubber did it's magic. this took a total of 1 month for it to clear up, and I did not remove any of the algae, it just melted a way. Only problem I have is that i have some sea grass that is melting away as well and cheto in my sump is also slowly dieing."

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Here are the requirements for building a UAS.

Screen material:

1)
Use plastic canvas as the algae screen. Remember to roughen it up properly using a wood saw or hole saw. You can get plastic canvas at craft store (under sewing section) or sewing store or online at places like www.everythingplasticcanvas.com or ebay. Screen should look like this:

http://algaescrubber.net/ScreenHoleSaw.jpg
http://algaescrubber.net/CanvasCompare.jpg

Lighting

2)
The lighting needs to be 1 watt per square inch (6.25 square cm) of screen material. A 3 by 4 inch screen is 12 square inches not 24. Make sure you have enough wattage and use a reflector if the light doesnot focus on screen. For fluorescent bulbs, it needs to have a spectrum of 2700k-3000k. For LEDs, it needs to be red 660nm. You can cut the wattage in half if you are using LED lights. In order for algae to grow, make sure that the light is on for 18 hours a day. Here are some bulbs and reflector type:

http://algaescrubber.net/CFLtypes.jpg
http://algaescrubber.net/BeerCan.jpg

Bubbles:

3)
The bubbles need to be rapid and large and distributed through out the screen evenly for algae to grow. The best way to do this is by slicing the air tubing. Make sure the air pump is good so that the bubbles can constantly flow across the screen for 24 hours a day. This is why you need bubbles:

http://algaescrubber.net/WhyBubbles.jpg

[Pennies2Cents]

If my memory serves me correctly. I remember Ping- had this type of item in his tank when he was here in SA. :) Ping??? you still there.

[SantaMonicaHelp]

This is the new design with bubble remover. :)
http://algaescrubber.net/P6.jpg

[txg8gxp]

Very cool, I like the in tank/sump setups. It's been awhile sense I have done any reading on ATS system, it looks like they have come along way. The under water/air pump style system looks like a much easier to use system. I like it, I might have to give a tiny one a shot one day on my 5.5g tank.

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Very cool, I like the in tank/sump setups. It's been awhile sense I have done any reading on ATS system, it looks like they have come along way. The under water/air pump style system looks like a much easier to use system. I like it, I might have to give a tiny one a shot one day on my 5.5g tank.

Great, looking forward for your pictures.

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Do you have any suggestions for the best manufacturer for making these?

[SantaMonicaHelp]

This is the Collector UAS Scrubber. :)
http://algaescrubber.net/P7.jpg

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Some success stories of people who built upflow algae scrubbers...

ReeferMat on the MASC site: "So I decided to build one of these [UAS scrubbers] today. It's huge because all I had was a 12 inch airstone, but I'm hoping that won't matter too much. It cost me less than $20 to build, so if it works that is the best bang for the buck I have ever seen in the war on algae! It has been up and running for 3 months now and I have to say my tank looks a lot better. Every time I clean it it grows a new type of algae, slime, turf, etc... and it grows fast. I would say I have seen a decline in nuisance algae in my tank, but to be honest that would be an understatement.... It has all but eradicated it. Every time I look at the scrubber I can't help but think that all that junk would be growing in my DT"

Owenreefin on the PNWMAS site: "The first two months of running this UAS scrubber thing I was convinced I was going to rip it out for the algae growth was dismal, and I figured that my system just couldn't make it work. (I also have algae in my fuge) WELL I WAS WRONG. The thing started to really kick in. So much so that I just conducted my only water change in 2 months and I hardly think it was even necessary. I usually do a change of 30% every 2 weeks. My sand bed has cleared up big time too. With the water change I pulled out a good baseball sized amount of algae off the scrubber, couldn't be happier! I will always be running one of these. I will post pics of its growth next time I change water. Many months from now. :) "

Bobba on the scrubber site: "Well, it's been almost 3 weeks with the HOG.5, and 2 with my lone Turbo snail. I am happy to report that I have no Hair Algae left in the tank. No signs of any regrowth of what the snail has eaten either."

Clavius on the scrubber site:

"I've been running a 500 liter tank now for 5 years. It is very well stocked with SPS, LPS, softies, filter feeders and a modest amount of fish. The nutrients were being kept very low by a combination of a giant skimmer and the ZEOvit method. Off course, this results in very lightly coloured corals, which was my goal. Generally I'm very pleased with the colouring and growth of my corals, and please with my tank in general. But one battle I've always lost: brown algae covering my sandbed. I could not, for the life of me, find what was causing those algae. Not to mention solve it. I've tried many many things to solve it, but up untill recently, without luck.

Almost three weeks ago though, I installed a HOG.5 unit. It was a little experiment that I wanted to do ever since I learned about algae scrubbers. I was never creative enough to build one myself, as the space in my 100 ltr sump is very limited. The HOG.5 was affordable and tiny enough to enable my experiment. I could even fit 6 of those units in there with ease. Off course, with the ZEO-method, my nutrients already were really very low. I couldn't measure any NO3 or PO4 with my Salifert test kits. And I never bothered with more expensive kits; unmeasurable should be good enough. I wanted to see if the vitamins and amino acids that the algae scrubber produces would add anything to my reef. And, more importantly, if the algae would consume "something" that the brown algae on my sandbed require.

The result in my sandbed is staggering. After only 3 weeks, not a trace of the pesky brown algae is left! An extra benefit, that I didn't expect, is that my lightly coloured corals now all have noticably much more colour. Without getting darker. They seem to glow! I don't know if it is from the vitamins that are released in the water [from the algae scrubber]. Or maybe the ugly brown algae [on the sand] were also covering my corals and that I now finally seeing my uncovered corals! Strangely enough, the algae in my HOG.5 aren't light green, as you would expect with nutrient-poor tanks. But they're a mix of dark brown with red tints here and there. So, I have no idea why that is or how that works. But at this stage I'm just so happy that I really don't care."

[rrasco]

I built a waterfall ATS last weekend. Cleaned it this weekend and am patiently awaiting thick growth and results.

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Some more UAS upflow algae scrubber (tm) examples...

"Joey2525" on the CMF site...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasJoey2525OnCMF-4.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasJoey2525OnCMF-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasJoey2525OnCMF-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasJoey2525OnCMF-3.jpg




"Alexleblanc" on the scrubber site...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasAlexleblancOnAS-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasAlexleblancOnAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasAlexleblancOnAS-4.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasAlexleblancOnAS-5.jpg




"Disney" on the PH841 site...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasDisneyOnPh84-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasDisneyOnPh84-2.jpg



"Cdm2012" on the scrubber site...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasCdm2012onAS-3.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasCdm2012onAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasCdm2012onAS-2.jpg




"Bicyclebill" on the PNWMAS site
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasBicyclebillOnPNWMAS-3.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasBicyclebillOnPNWMAS-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasBicyclebillOnPNWMAS-1.jpg




"Mbonus" on the scrubber site...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasMbonusOnAS-1.jpg




"UasIslakkie" on the UR site...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasIslakkieOnUR-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasIslakkieOnUR-2.jpg

[SantaMonicaHelp]

"Alman" on the AH site...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasAlmanOnIAH-1.jpg




"JosephAcquario" on another site...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasJosephAcquario-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasJosephAcquario-1.jpg




"Ericsson" on the scrubber site...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasEricssonOnAS-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasEricssonOnAS-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasEricssonOnAS-3.jpg



"FotisGt" on the AZ site...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasFotisGtAquazone-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasFotisGtAquazone-2.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasFotisGtAquazone-3.jpg




"Colin" on the PNWMAS site...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasColinOnPNWMAS-1.jpg




"Accrod" on the PH841 site...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasAccrodOnPH84-1.jpg




"Atari" on the MC site...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasAtariOnMC-1.jpg




"Kaykay" on the SG site...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasKaykayOnSG-1.jpg




"Jameshopper" on the UR site...
http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasJameshopperOnUR-1.jpg

http://www.algaescrubber.net/UasJameshopperOnUR-2.jpg

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Air Pump Recommendations for UAS® upflow algae scrubbers®. Having bought and tried all of these, here are the best ones:


Flow (highest to lowest):

Coralife Super Luft... TONS of flow for multiple outlets or multiple scrubbers
Tetra Whisper 300... High flow if both outlets are combined into one
JW Aquatic Fusion 700... High flow if both outlets are combined into one
Tetra Whisper 150... Good flow for one outlet
Coralife Luft (regular)... Good flow for one outlet


Noise (most to least):

Coralife Super Luft... (Loud; vibrates)
Coralife Luft (regular)... (Vibrates)
JW Aquatic Fusion 700... Slight vibration
Tetra Whisper 300... Silent
Tetra Whisper 150... Silent


Size: (big to small):

Tetra Whisper 300... Large
JW Aquatic Fusion 700... Medium
Coralife Super Luft... Medium
Tetra Whisper 150... Medium
Coralife Luft (regular)... Small


Cost (most to least):

Coralife Super Luft
Coralife Luft (regular)
Tetra Whisper 300
Tetra Whisper 150
JW Aquatic Fusion 700

Overall winner for a single UAS scrubber used at home: JW Aquatic Fusion 700 (also is the only one with adjustable flow)
Overall winner for multiple UAS scrubbers if noise if ok: Coralife Super Luft

[SantaMonicaHelp]

1982: The original dump-bucket style algae scrubber (works, but very hard to build, install, operate, and harvest)

2008: Waterfall style algae scrubber (works good but hard to build and install; must be removed to harvest)

2011: Upflow style scrubber (work goods, easier to build and install on the glass; must be removed to harvest)

2013: ??? (work great, all 3D growth, easy to build, and instant in-place harvesting without needing to remove anything or turn anything off).

[kkiel02]

My waterfall ats isn't removed anymore for cleaning, I used to but got lazy and now it works better as I think I was scraping off too much previously. I just use a pitcher and scrape a lot of the algae off. I stole this design from your old posts on RC. I haven't noticed any yellowing of the water either, maybe I'm just lucky.

[SantaMonicaHelp]

If anyone has been waiting to build a waterfall or upflow scrubber, we

will soon be posting plans of the new floating surface scrubber. It

floats at the top and does not need a waterfall, and it does not shine

through the glass.

[SantaMonicaHelp]

How to build a floating surface scrubber:
http://www.algaescrubber.net/P8.jpg

[SantaMonicaHelp]

First 13 days of growth in a floating surface scrubber. This one used four LEDs of 3 watts

each, 660nm (red), but you could also use a CFL bulb...

http://www.algaescrubber.net/Surf2-first-harvest-13-days collage-plain.jpg

[BBQHILLBILLY]

thank you i may have found my next project, i have over 300 gallons of sw (display and sump combined), lot of fish and a lot of feeding,

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Even more harvests:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=miWb4R8ajXw

[EpicWin]

This looks promising

[kkiel02]

Can you post up on how you made the light? Or even better do you sell them?

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Well here is a Sketchup of the whole thing:
http://algaescrubber.net/SURF-Sketchup.skp

...but if you can't load it, here is one pic of the light:

23056

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Many people, when they get their scrubber running for the first time, get worried when more (not less) algae starts to grow on their rocks. It seems really strange, especially when nitrate and phosphate have gone lower than before. What is happening is that phosphate is coming out of the rocks. Remember, phosphate is invisible, so you can only see the effects of it, and it always "flows" from higher concentrations to lower concentrations (just like heat does).

Example: If your room is warm, and you put a cold object on the floor, heat from the air in the room will "flow" into the object until the object and the air are the same temperature. Example 2: If you put a hot object on the floor, heat will "flow" out of the object and go into the air in the room, again, until the air and the object are the same temperature. Now suppose you open your windows (in the winter). The warm air in your room will go out the windows, and it will get colder in the room. The object on the floor is now warmer than the air, so heat will flow out of the object and into the air, and then out the window.

Think of phosphate as the heat, and your rocks as the object, and your windows as the scrubber. As the scrubber pulls phosphate out of the water, the phosphate level in the water drops. Now, since the phosphate level in the water is lower than the phosphate level in the rocks, phosphate flows from the rocks into the water, and then from the water into the scrubber. This continues until the phosphate levels in the rocks and water are level again. And remember, you can't see this invisible flow.

This flow causes an interesting thing happens. As the phosphate comes out of the rocks, it then becomes available to feed algae as soon as the phosphate reaches the surface of the rocks where there is light. So, since the surface of the rocks is rough and has light, it starts growing MORE algae there (not less) as the phosphate comes out of the rocks. This is a pretty amazing thing to see for the first time, because if you did not know what was happening you would probably think that the algae in the scrubber was leaking out and attaching to your rocks. Here are the signs of phosphate coming out of the rocks:

1. The rocks are older, and have slowly developed algae problems in the past year.

2. The scrubber is new, maybe only a few months old, and has recently started to grow well.

3. Nitrate and phosphate measurements in the water are low, usually the lowest they have been in a long time.

4. Green hair algae (not brown) on the rocks has increased in certain spots, usually on corners and protrusions at the top.

5. The glass has not needed cleaning as much.


Since skimmers, filter socks, etc don't remove any nitrate and phosphate, and waterchanges and macro's in a fuge don't remove much, most people have never seen the effects of large amounts of phosphate coming out of the rocks quickly. But sure enough, it does. How long does it continue? For 2 months to a year, depending on how much phosphate is in the rocks, how strong your scrubber is, and how many other phosphate-removing filters you have (GFO, carbon dosing, etc). But one day you will see patches of white rock that were covered in green hair the day before; this is a sure sign that the algae are losing their phosphate supply from the rocks and can no longer hold on. Now it's just a matter of days before the rocks are clear.

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Advanced Aquarist Feature Article for December 2013: Coral Feeding: An Overview
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2013/12/aafeature


The picture in the article shows that in the 1000 litre test tank:

98% of the food particles go to the skimmer when there are 2 coral colonies
71% of the food particles go to the skimmer when there are 40 coral colonies
92% of the food particles go to the skimmer when there are 2 coral colonies, when skimming is cut in half
55% of the food particles go to the skimmer when there are 40 coral colonies, when skimming is cut in half


"This trade-off between food availability and water quality can be circumvented by using plankton-saving filtration systems, which include [...] algal turf scrubbers"

"Corals are able to feed on a wide range of particulate organic matter, which includes live organisms and their residues and excrements (detritus)."

"...bacteria [...] can be a major source of nitrogen."

"...when dry fish feeds or phytoplankton cultures are added to an aquarium, a part of this quickly ends up in the collection cup of the skimmer.

"...mechanical filters (which can include biofilters and sand filters) result in a significant waste of food."

"Detritus is a collective term for organic particles that arise from faeces, leftover food and decaying organisms. Detrital matter is common on coral reefs and in the aquarium, and slowly settles on the bottom as sediment. This sediment contains bacteria, protozoa, microscopic invertebrates, microalgae and organic material. These sedimentary sources can all serve as coral nutrients when suspended, especially for species growing in turbid waters. Experiments have revealed that many scleractinian corals can ingest and assimilate detritus which is trapped in coral mucus. Although stony corals may ingest detritus when it is available, several gorgonians have been found to primarily feed on suspended detritus."

"Dissolved organic matter (DOM) is an important food source for many corals. [...] scleractinian corals take up dissolved glucose from the water. More ecologically relevant, corals can also absorb amino acids and urea from the seawater"

[Dean]

Great write up! Thank you for the information.

- Dean

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Glad you like the info...hope to help everyone's tank :)

[rrasco]

I have not built any of the new advanced ATS, but I can tell you first hand I've never seen something pull algae out of a tank as confidently as a properly built ATS. They just flat out work. Even on a tank with GFO, BP, and a refugium I am about to add one back for that extra oomph.

[Dean]

It definitely helped me. I was stumped as to why I have red slime on just a few if the rocks but always the same rock's. All of the other rock in my tank is Marco Rock. The problematic rock came fromsoneone else's tank. Sounds to me like it is leaching phosphates. From what the article says, I just need to keep siphoning off the slime and keep up with water changes and it will continue to dissipate.

- Dean

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Great video showing a basic upflow scrubber, similar to a Hang-On-Glass (tm)...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGLnBvDkaO0

[rocketeer]

I need to inject a word of caution. I ran an up-flow ATS for about a year. I built a light with three 17W (I think) compact florescent lights shining through the side of my acrylic sump. I finally started to get some growth after extracting a sally lightfoot crab, but that's not my point. Point is, my sump started to crack. Early on, the clear acrylic cover to my light broke. I thought nothing of it and attributed it to heat. I figured that my sump would be water cooled and would be safe. No. The cracks have not gone through though, so it's not leaking. I really like the ATS idea but have given up on shining compact florescents through the side of my sump. It could be a frequency thing. Maybe LEDs would be ok, both cooler and possibly a different spectrum. If I try it again, it will be a conventional ATS.

Jack

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Glad it did not crack. That's the first I've heard of it with CFLs.

LEDs don't seem to heat the acrylic up at all.

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Nutrient Export

What do all algae (and cyano too) need to survive? Nutrients. What are nutrients? Ammonia/ammonium, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate and urea are the major ones. Which ones cause most of the algae in your tank? These same ones. Why can't you just remove these nutrients and eliminate all the algae in your tank? Because these nutrients are the result of the animals you keep.

So how do your animals "make" these nutrients? Well a large part the nutrients come from pee (urea). Pee is very high in urea and ammonia, and these are a favorite food of algae and some bacteria. This is why your glass will always need cleaning; because the pee hits the glass before anything else, and algae on the glass consume the ammonia and urea immediately (using photosynthesis) and grow more. In the ocean and lakes, phytoplankton consume the ammonia and urea in open water, and seaweed consume it in shallow areas, but in a tank you don't have enough space or water volume for this, and, your other filters or animals often remove or kill the phytoplankton or seaweed anyway. So, the nutrients stay in your tank.

Then the ammonia/ammonium hits your rocks, and the periphyton on them consumes more ammonia and urea. Periphyton is both algae and animals, and is the reason your rocks change color after a few weeks. Then the ammonia goes inside the rock, or hits your sand, and bacteria there convert it into nitrite and nitrate. However, the nutrients are still in your tank.

Also let's not forget phosphate, which comes from solid organic food particles. When these particles are eaten by microbes and clean up crew, the organic phosphorus in them is converted into phosphate. However, the nutrients are still in your tank.

So whenever you have algae "problems", you simply have not exported enough nutrients compared to how much you have been feeding (note: live rock can absorb phosphate for up to a year, making it seem like there was never a problem. Then, there is a problem).

So just increase your nutrient exports. You could also reduce feeding, and this has the same effect, but it's certainly not fun when you want to feed your animals :)

[SantaMonicaHelp]

From new to green, in 3 cleanings and 2 LEDs...
(anyone can build this simple 2-LED scrubber)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utu2SADmj2g

[SantaMonicaHelp]

What is Periphyton?

Periphyton is what turns your rocks different colors. You know... the white rocks you started with in SW, or the grey rocks (or brown wood) you started with in FW. After several months or years, the rocks become a variety of different colors and textures. Why? Because the periphyton that has grown on it is a mix of different living things, of different colors, and thicknesses. And the important part is: It is LIVING.

That's right: The colored stuff that has coated your rocks is all living organisms. Sponges, microbes, algae, cyano, biofilms, and of course coralline. After all, "peri" means "around the outside", and "phyto" means "plant". Ever slipped in a slippery puddle? That's probably periphyton that made it slippery. It's a very thin coating on the rocks, sometimes paper thin.

There is a lot of photosynthetic organisms in periphyton, and this of course means that they need light; but they need nutrients too (ammonia, nitrate, phosphate). And as you might figure, they will be on the lighted portions of the rocks. And they will grow to intercept food particles in the water, based on the water flow. Just think about how sponges orient their holes for water flow; the micro sponges in periphyton do it too but on a tiny scale.

What about under the rocks, in the dark areas? Well these periphyton don't get light, so they are primarily filter feeders. So they REALLY grow and position themselves to be able to intercept food particles. And they don't really need to fight off algae, because algae does not grow in the dark, so they have no need for anti-algae tactics like plants in illuminated areas have.

Reef studies have shown that at certain depths, more of the filtering of the water comes from periphyton and benthic algae than comes from the phytoplankton which filters the deeper water. And in streams, almost all the filtering is done by periphyton. So, what you have on rocks that are "mature" or "established" is a well-developed layer of periphyton; and all the things that comes from it.

This is why mandarin fish can eat directly off the rocks of an "established" tank (tons of pods grow in the periphyton), but not on the rocks of a new tank. Or why some animals can lay their eggs on established rocks, but not new ones. Or why established tanks seem to "yo-yo" less than new ones. Even tangs can eat periphyton directly when it's thick enough. Yes periphyton can also develop on the sand, but since the sand is moved around so much, the periphyton does not get visible like it does on rocks. So thick periphyton on established rocks is your friend. And totally natural too. Keep in mind though I'm not referring to nuisance algae on rocks; I'm only referring to the very-thin layer of coloring that coats the rocks.

But what happens when you "scrape the stuff off your rocks"? Well you remove some of the periphyton, which means you remove some of your natural filter and food producer. What if you take the rocks out and scrub them? Well now you not only remove more of your natural filter and food producer, but the air is going to kill even more of the microscopic sponges in it. And what if you bleach the rocks? Well, goodbye all filtering and food producing for another year. It's an instant reduction of the natural filtering that the periphyton was providing.

However, what if you just re-arrange the rocks? Well, some of the periphyton that was in the light, now will be in the dark; so this part will die. And some of the periphyton that was in the dark will now be in the light, so it will not be able to out-compete photosynthetic growth and thus will be covered and die too. And even if the light stays the same, the direction and amount of water flow (and food particles) will change; sponges that were oriented to get food particles from one direction will now starve. So since the light and food supply is cut off, the filtering that the periphyton was providing stops almost immediately, due only to the re-arranging of the rocks.

Starvation takes a little longer. The periphyton organisms won't die immediately, since they have some energy saved up; but instead, they will wither away over several weeks. So on top of the instant reduction in filtering that you get by just moving the rocks, you get a somewhat stretched-out period of nutrients going back into the water. And after all this, it takes another long period of time for the periphyton to build up to the levels it was at before: 1 to 2 years. Even changing the direction of a powerhead will affect the food particle supply in the area it used to be pointed at.

So a good idea is to try to keep everything the same. Pick your lighting, flow, layout, and try to never move or change anything. It's a different way of thinking, but you should have a stronger natural filter and food producer because of it.

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Very nice scrubber-only tank:
http://algaescrubber.net/forums/showthread.php?2702-180g-Show-Tank&p=35853&viewfull=1#post35853

His personal page:
http://home.comcast.net/~dgrigor/

[SantaMonicaHelp]

Shade cloth:

All new scrubbers which use white growth surfaces should have a black cloth placed over some of the LEDs for the first week or two. Because the all-white interior reflects so much light, when it is new the light levels are way above the highest amount that can grow anything. Once growth starts, the white surfaces get covered with growth and the total light levels drop, and the cloth can be removed. Any cloth, stocking, or t-shirt can work; just don't melt the cloth with hot LEDs :)

This covering of the lights can be done by anyone, on any scrubber, even waterfalls. Waterfalls use plastic canvas which has more holes than material, and they are not in white compartments, so the light levels when new are not too high. But it still might help if a new screen stays completely empty.

The reason for a white colors of the screen, of course, is too allow more light to reach the base of the growth that does the attaching. As the growth gets thicker, the bottom layers will almost be in darkness, so the white surface doubles the light there by reflecting instead of absorbing the light.

Put the shade cloth about 2/3 or 3/4 over the lights; this way you can see which part grows better: the covered, or uncovered.