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Monica25
Tue, 10th Jan 2012, 08:14 PM
I set up my biocube 14 Sunday evening. I had a 46 bow before so I'm a bit familiar. I read in another post and was told I can add a coral in a week if things look good. I would love your help. What should I be doing?

Thanks,
monica

Regric25
Tue, 10th Jan 2012, 08:36 PM
It depends on a number of veriables when you can successfully add livestock. As mentioned in the previous thread fish will add to bio load greatly compared to corals.

You have to test the water to determine if its safe to add corals to a tank. I let my 10 gallon nano cycle 2 weeks before i added anything and its been running for about 3 months now. Have not lost anything. But im MY case I used dry sand and dry rock so there was no die off from live rock and live sand to cycle.

Are you using dry rock and sand?

If you decide to use dry rock remember its totally white and will take longer to look "natural".

If you go with live rock/sand then you will need to allow some time to cycle. The best way to know for sure is to test ammonia, nitrates and nitrites. As you already know reef tanks take time and nano tanks take even more of a delecate hand because with such a small volume of water it does not take much to crash the tank.. Adding 2 small fish at once to a 50 gallon tank wont make much an impact but adding 2 fish at once will almost guarantee to crash a 5 gallon tank.

If you are going to add a coral as your first piece of livestock then I would add something hardy. A small frag of colorful zoa or paly should be good.

Monica25
Tue, 10th Jan 2012, 08:55 PM
Ok thanks. Well I bought a bag of live sand and the rock was my old dried up rock from about six months ago or longer. It's only about ten pounds of rock. I was adviced to buy a little piece of live rock to help my old dead rock.
so it's a one pound rock.

kkiel02
Tue, 10th Jan 2012, 09:05 PM
I would wait awhile and monitor your cycle. You will get a nice hard cycle with that dried rock.

Regric25
Tue, 10th Jan 2012, 09:32 PM
I agree THAT rock which once was live might cause a good cycle. Just because there might be still die-off in the nooks and crannies. TEST and TIME is a good method to follow.

Monica25
Tue, 10th Jan 2012, 11:17 PM
Thanks for the advice. I'm gonna test the water tomorrow just to see what's going on. The water is cold am I gonna need a heater in the biocube?

Regric25
Tue, 10th Jan 2012, 11:59 PM
its advised to put a heater depending on how cold it is

Monica25
Wed, 11th Jan 2012, 11:58 PM
Ok I tested tested the water today and this is what I got.

Salt 0.19
Ph= 7.8
Ammonia= 0.25
Nitrate= 0 ppm
Nitrite= 0.50

Monica25
Wed, 11th Jan 2012, 11:59 PM
What do u think. Is this good normal? I'm gonna post a picture.

Monica25
Thu, 12th Jan 2012, 12:00 AM
http://www.maast.org/webkit-fake-url://17CC8583-E8AF-4F3A-9C83-A50136B2192B/imagejpeg

Monica25
Thu, 12th Jan 2012, 12:06 AM
http://www.maast.org/webkit-fake-url://8A971688-38A3-45FA-912E-8B41663CD734/imagejpeghttp://www.maast.org/webkit-fake-url://4BF5DF82-24C2-48CB-8136-914B4E391B0B/imagejpeg

Monica25
Thu, 12th Jan 2012, 12:16 AM
http://www.maast.org/webkit-fake-url://87A63559-BE38-4BBB-A756-6759D4C68E95/imagejpeg

betiuminside
Thu, 12th Jan 2012, 12:22 AM
Monica,
I don't see your picture but I believe your tank is cycling still. You should not have any ammonia and that's the main reason you are having problems IMO.
One week tank = cycling tank IMO. You will have dyoff from the rock. Let it ride for at least 15-20 days... until you don't see any Ammonia.

Monica25
Thu, 12th Jan 2012, 12:29 AM
Thanks yes it's only been up for 3 days. It's cycling I think. I can't figure out how to add the picture. How do I?

Cammed_02
Thu, 12th Jan 2012, 09:26 AM
Upload pics to photobucket, copy link of pics just uploaded, paste in reply box.

Squiers007
Thu, 12th Jan 2012, 10:08 AM
I would also try and increase your salinity a bit. I'm assuming you were measuring specific gravity and got a reading of 1.019? If so, you should try and shoot for 1.024 to 1.026. Also, if you don't have a digital thermometer I would recommend picking one up so you will know if you need a heater or not. My nano tank needs a heater in the winter months but is fine without one during the rest of the year. It really all depends on what temp you keep your house. Best of luck!

Sent using Tapatalk

rrasco
Thu, 12th Jan 2012, 10:59 AM
Definitely cycling if you are getting ammonia and nitrite readings. Ideally, you should see both of those at 0 and get a nitrate reading above 0.

350gt
Thu, 12th Jan 2012, 02:22 PM
Good luck to u..... I'm sure it was said before, don't rush anything..

Monica25
Sat, 14th Jan 2012, 01:07 PM
Thanks for the help. I raised the salinity to 1.023. Is that good or should I go higher? I know fish are okay with lower salt but in the future I'm gonna get some corals and i really want a cleaner shrimp. Will this salt level be good? Also how bad is the ammonia suppose to spike? I so far have only seen The ammonia at 0.25 and tomorrow it's one week. Still have a very clean tank.

Thanks for your time,
Monica

Monica25
Sat, 14th Jan 2012, 02:20 PM
http://www.maast.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=13572&thumb=1&d=1326568591

Monica25
Sat, 14th Jan 2012, 02:21 PM
13576

Squiers007
Sat, 14th Jan 2012, 03:46 PM
Thanks for the help. I raised the salinity to 1.023. Is that good or should I go higher? I know fish are okay with lower salt but in the future I'm gonna get some corals and i really want a cleaner shrimp. Will this salt level be good? Also how bad is the ammonia suppose to spike? I so far have only seen The ammonia at 0.25 and tomorrow it's one week. Still have a very clean tank.

Thanks for your time,
Monica

As you said, fish will be fine with that salinity, but if you are wanting to keep corals I would shoot for 1.024-1.026. Also, out of curiosity what are you using to measure your salinity? A swing arm or a refractometer?

Sent using Tapatalk

Monica25
Sat, 14th Jan 2012, 06:18 PM
I'm using a hydrometer from instant ocean.

Monica25
Sun, 15th Jan 2012, 02:33 AM
I think it's a swing arm. Has the white needle thing that moves up or down.

FireWater
Sun, 15th Jan 2012, 11:33 AM
Those can be notoriously inaccurate. When you can borrow or invest in a refractometer and a floating hydrometer.

Monica25
Sun, 15th Jan 2012, 11:55 AM
Ok I will see about getting one soon I have heard that a lot about the one I got.

Thanks

Monica25
Mon, 16th Jan 2012, 02:37 AM
So my tank has been up for one week today and I was wondering how bad is the ammonia suppose to get? When is the tank gonna look dirty? So far the ammonia has gone up a bit. My readings are as follows...

Salinity = 1.027 to salty?
amonia = 1.0
Ph = between 8.0-8.2

Nitrite = 0.50
Nitrate = perfect

Water changes come later, right?

Thanks for your time,
monica

kkiel02
Mon, 16th Jan 2012, 03:29 AM
The ammonia will rise then get converted to nitrite, which from your test looks like where you are now. Both of these are poisonous to fish/coral. The nitrite will then get converted to nitrates and this can be poisonous in large amounts. In our aquariums we lack the ability(for the most part) to convert nitrate into nitrogen and this is one reason we do water changes- to lower the nitrates. Nitrate can be converted to nitrogen with the use of a DSB, this allows the anerobic bacteria that is needed for the process. I run a Turf Scrubber which instead of converting the nitrates actually promotes the growth of hair algae on my screens(which use up phosphates and nitrate) and then harvest that off the screens weekly.

So to answer your question about your cycle time it can really differ from tank to tank, mine have never been over 2 weeks but looks like your are still in the beginning part of the nitrogen cycle. Once your nitrite and ammonia are at 0 you will be done with the cycle. Just make sure you buy livestock slowly to not start another cycle.

Monica25
Mon, 16th Jan 2012, 03:34 AM
What should my first inhabitant be? Maybe a snail or crab? Can it be a cleaner shrimp?

betiuminside
Mon, 16th Jan 2012, 12:10 PM
Monica,
You are on the 1st stage still... Next step is to see the nitrites up and ammonia 0.
Then nitrites 0 and nitrates very high and then you do a water change

Yes, it can be a cleaner shrimp and definitely a clean up crew. Which are snails, hermit crabs, turbo mexican snails, etc.
Because your tank is very very little, to maintain the salinity always perfect it's super important because you don't have enough water to really mess it up.

Monica25
Mon, 16th Jan 2012, 12:13 PM
Ok thanks a few more weeks then so is my water to salty? And about two gallons every week?

FireWater
Mon, 16th Jan 2012, 12:40 PM
Yes, next water change I would drop it a little.

Monica25
Mon, 16th Jan 2012, 12:47 PM
Alrighty then thank you

Monica25
Mon, 16th Jan 2012, 12:58 PM
I will post reading on Wednesday. Thank you everyone!

Monica

Monica25
Tue, 17th Jan 2012, 10:00 PM
I couldn't help it and I tested the water again. It's officially 9 days since set up. I'm not in a rush to add anything but this is what I got. Just wondering if it's to high.

Salt 1.027
ph 8.2
amonia 2.0
nitrite 1.0
nitrate 5.0

Do I need to change the water? I have moved the rocks around a few times but it's been more like two days ago. Is it cuz I move them?

Thanks,
monica

Big_Pun
Wed, 18th Jan 2012, 10:04 AM
A small water change wont hurt, just keep letting the tank do its thing. still getting some amonia so tank isnt done cycling. any live inhabitants?

FireWater
Wed, 18th Jan 2012, 10:53 AM
What Chris said. You are still going through the normal cycle. Ammonia should start reading lower over the next couple of days. A very small change won't hurt, but if you do too much then you might make the cycle a little longer. Just keep being patient and it will happen.

Monica25
Wed, 18th Jan 2012, 05:35 PM
No inhabitants at all. I would hate to start it over. Would it be best if I didn't change water yet?

Monica25
Wed, 18th Jan 2012, 06:24 PM
13609 this is my most recent picture. looks clean still

Regric25
Thu, 19th Jan 2012, 01:34 AM
A common sign some ppl run into at the end of the cycle is a dusting of diatom algae. Some say once it goes away its about ready... I however, never got diatom algae in my tank. based on your parms i agree with Chris. Give it time and let it ride. When your ammonia and nitrites constantly read 0 you are good to go.

Monica25
Thu, 19th Jan 2012, 06:38 PM
My ammonia is still at 2.0 hasnt dropped yet. My salt is still at 1.027. My tank needs water I think it evaporated a tiny bitbcuz I hear the flow pump needing water. I'm afraid to start the cycle over. Should I just top it off with Rodi water a tad or should I do a 1 gallon water change?

Thanks

rrasco
Thu, 19th Jan 2012, 06:53 PM
Don't do a water change, just top it off.

Monica25
Thu, 19th Jan 2012, 06:56 PM
Ok thanks. I can worry about the salt later, right?

rrasco
Thu, 19th Jan 2012, 07:02 PM
Yes, salt does not evaporate.

Monica25
Thu, 19th Jan 2012, 07:18 PM
Ok thank you. I just topped it off. I hope it starts cycling soon.

rrasco
Thu, 19th Jan 2012, 07:33 PM
Anticipate at least 3 weeks before the tank is cycled, maybe longer. This is the absolute hardest part about setting up a new tank...the wait.

Monica25
Thu, 19th Jan 2012, 09:44 PM
Tell me about it. Sunday it will be two weeks and I thought by now I would be in the nitrite phase.

Squiers007
Fri, 20th Jan 2012, 10:12 AM
There are not distinct stages per say, they simply just slowly convert from one form of nitrogen to the other, so even though you still have ammonia, it is getting converted slowly to nitrite. Just try and be patient and let everything run its course.

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Big_Pun
Fri, 20th Jan 2012, 11:34 AM
i would still do small water change as this will take out any nitrates and other stuff that is not converted in your cycle. you have a cube without a skimmer so water changes are your only way of exporting nutrients.

Squiers007
Fri, 20th Jan 2012, 05:13 PM
There is no need for a water change if the tank is not fully cycled yet. Let the cycle run its course. And as others have said, once you see 0 NH3 and 0 NO2, and your nitrate begins to rise then you can do a water change.

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Monica25
Fri, 20th Jan 2012, 05:28 PM
Hi everyone. Thanks for all your good advice. I'm soooo happy my amonia went from 2.0 to somewhere between .50-1.0! I will check it again later tonight to see if it still reads that but either way it went down some finally!
This is good right? And I haven't even done any water changes yet.

Monica25
Fri, 20th Jan 2012, 11:40 PM
Checked it again and yes the ammonia is at about 1.0 lower than the previous 2.0 and the nitrite is now higher at 2.0. This is good right?also starting to get a tiny bit of brown specks on Sand and glass. Very tiny but it's there. Think it's gonna take much longer?

Big_Pun
Fri, 20th Jan 2012, 11:45 PM
There is no need for a water change if the tank is not fully cycled yet. Let the cycle run its course. And as others have said, once you see 0 NH3 and 0 NO2, and your nitrate begins to rise then you can do a water change.

Sent using Tapatalk
I have a pretty good amount of experience with biocubes.
why wouldn't you do a water change the tank doesn't not use a skimmer and there is bad stuff that doesn't get converted in the cycle. a small water change will is needed I'm not saying swap out 50% of the water. unlike a big system that has a skimmers and more media and or a fuge to help export nutrients, the only way to help is to manually remove them a lil at a time as to not make drastic changes to a small system.

Monica25
Sat, 21st Jan 2012, 12:29 AM
Because I'm afraid to start anything over. Not that I don't want to listen to you I'm just afraid to mess with things. Seems like its doing what it's suppose to be doing. I don't want to be rude, I'm sure u know more than I do.

Squiers007
Sat, 21st Jan 2012, 11:20 AM
I have a pretty good amount of experience with biocubes.
why wouldn't you do a water change the tank doesn't not use a skimmer and there is bad stuff that doesn't get converted in the cycle. a small water change will is needed I'm not saying swap out 50% of the water. unlike a big system that has a skimmers and more media and or a fuge to help export nutrients, the only way to help is to manually remove them a lil at a time as to not make drastic changes to a small system.

I guess I just don't see the point of a water change, no matter how small while the tank is still cycling. If it was well established, then I totally agreee with you, a water change is going to be the only way to export those nutrients. In this case however, I think there is more of a chance of negatives from a water change than positives, IMO.

betiuminside
Sat, 21st Jan 2012, 01:19 PM
Good job Monica! you almost there! LOL.... I would start saving for the next purchase which should be a cleaning crew.
Once the nitrite goes down to 0 and the nitrate sky rocket... and all the water changes you need to do to get the nitrates to a safe levels... comes the cleaning crew!
These guys will help you out cleaning all the algae the cycling caused. Again, I said... start saving $$$! for this only! LOL.
IMO cleaning crew with help A LOT on systems that small! because they will take care of all the junk that you will not be able to take out by doing water changes, like food, etc.

Monica25
Sat, 21st Jan 2012, 01:54 PM
Ok once ammonia and nitrite are at 0, nitrate will go up than I do a water change till I get nitrate at what is it safe to add a cleanup crew? Also what's a good recommendation for a cleanup crew for 14 gallons? Someday I want some easy colorful corals.

FireWater
Sat, 21st Jan 2012, 04:42 PM
You will notice the nitrates rising because that is when you will start asking about all the algae popping up in the tank. It should start with a diatom bloom and progress into some form of algae (most commonly hair algae). Usually when you see the algae you are close to being done with the large cycle. That is when you want to start the water change regimen as it will help reduce nitrates. I prefer frequent small changes as compared to a large (%50) change.

As for the clean up crew that is up to you. Some people like hermits and some people think they are the devil. I personally do not add hermits to my display anymore and stick with only adding snails. A good mixture of detritus eating snails such as nassarius and a mix of algae eating snails like nerites, ceriths, and others. With a small tank I would stay away from large snails.

Monica25
Sat, 21st Jan 2012, 04:59 PM
Thanks. I'm getting the brownish orange stuff on the sand and a little bit on a few rocks already. I had hermits eat my snails before so I will stay away from them also. I don't want to over populate the tank and they starve so roughly what's a good amount for 14 gallons?

Monica25
Sun, 22nd Jan 2012, 01:13 AM
Any suggestions?

Kristy
Sun, 22nd Jan 2012, 01:32 AM
6 or 8 or 9...

Monica25
Sun, 22nd Jan 2012, 01:38 AM
Thank you Kristy. That's a mix of them total, right?

FireWater
Sun, 22nd Jan 2012, 10:18 PM
It really is a guessing game. There are several places around that sell clean up crews that can give you recommendations. A bunch of folks on here have had great things to say about Reef Cleaners who is one of our sponsors. I would also try a LFS if you want instant satisfaction.

Monica25
Sun, 22nd Jan 2012, 11:16 PM
Ok thanks. My sand is getting ugly spocoloring few of my rocks are getting ugly coloring. I don't like how it's looking.

Monica25
Sun, 22nd Jan 2012, 11:17 PM
Ugly orangey brownish color on a few areas. Gonna check my ammonia. Today it is two weeks setup!

betiuminside
Sun, 22nd Jan 2012, 11:23 PM
Brown algae is good... you almost there!! patience! :)

Monica25
Sun, 22nd Jan 2012, 11:26 PM
Like how much longer. Let me check the water.everything or just ammonia?

Monica25
Sun, 22nd Jan 2012, 11:50 PM
Ph 7.8-8.0
ammonia 0.25
nitrite 1.0

nitrate 20
salinity 1.027

Kristy
Sun, 22nd Jan 2012, 11:59 PM
Still cycling...

Monica25
Mon, 23rd Jan 2012, 12:04 AM
Is it normal to be getting nitrate readings?

CoryDude
Mon, 23rd Jan 2012, 12:24 AM
Yep, that means you have nitrifying bacteria converting your nitrites into nitrates. You have a full cycle now.

Just wait till your nitrites and ammonia hit zero and the cycle is done. You're almost there!

Monica25
Mon, 23rd Jan 2012, 12:53 AM
Wow that's awesome! I never thought the ammonia would ever go down. I can't wait to see 0.

FireWater
Mon, 23rd Jan 2012, 10:53 AM
It is a neat thing to witness for the first time and can be very discouraging looking at brown rocks and sand. You are doing right by asking questions and hopefully doing some research on your own as well. Time and patience can't be taught, but you are well on your way to a fully cycled tank.

Monica25
Mon, 23rd Jan 2012, 01:46 PM
Thank you everyone for the help. Yes I have been googling lots also. Found a good idea group for a cleanup crew also. This is what my plans are..

2 nerites
2 ceriths
2 Tongan nassarius

And I'm debating if I should get 1 spiny star Astraea still.

Those are the plans once it's cycled. I'm hoping they can be good at cleaning this mess up. Does it seem good? Also can I add all them at once?

rrasco
Mon, 23rd Jan 2012, 02:05 PM
Reef Cleaners is awesome, just don't put all the dwarf ceriths that they give you in the tank. I have a bone yard of dwarf shells on my sand bed. I think I killed them cleaning my glass. They will NOT be moving to the new DT.

Monica25
Tue, 24th Jan 2012, 08:04 AM
Thank you, is that a good group though? Anyone have a different recommendation? Also can they be put in all at once?

FireWater
Tue, 24th Jan 2012, 10:02 AM
I personally think you can get away with adding more. Possibly 4 to 5 of each to start. The nassarius will make good sand bed stirrers in that small of a tank. You can also add an astrea as well.

And yes, you should be able to add those at once.

When adding fish and coral is when you want to take it real slow so the system can adapt to the bio load.

Monica25
Wed, 25th Jan 2012, 01:31 AM
My ammonia is at 0 now! Nitrite is at 1.0. I guess nitrite is the next step I'm gonna be watching. I will add that Astraea snail to my list. Or should I replace the two cerith or nitrites for two Astraea? What combination works best for you all? My tank is small so I don't want to over populate.

Monica25
Thu, 26th Jan 2012, 12:22 AM
Tested the water again and this is it now.

Salt = 1.027
Nitrate = 20
ammonia =0
Nitrite = 1.0
Ph = 7.8

Lots of brown orange diatoms also. Just a little over three weeks now. I run the lights from about 3ish to 10ish. That's about all. I'm gonna start turning off the blue LEDs at night. I want a clean up crew already.
think it's gonnantake much longer?

betiuminside
Thu, 26th Jan 2012, 01:08 AM
Your patience will pay off!
Wait a little bit longer until you don't see Nitrite.

Monica25
Sat, 28th Jan 2012, 01:48 AM
Nitrite question.

Does it take nitrite to go to 0 the same amount of time ammonia does. My ammonia is at zero after two weeks. Just wondering if nitrites takes about that long. It's at 1.0 now.

allan
Sat, 28th Jan 2012, 08:02 AM
Are you using the color coded tests? I can't tell the difference between 0 and 1.

Has your nitrates begun to rise? That's the sure fire method to ensure your cycle is complete.

Monica25
Sat, 28th Jan 2012, 09:57 AM
Yes I'm using the color coded. The perfect blue for nitrite is 0 ppm then 0.25 then 0.50 that's lavender, then 1.0 that's where mine is like a purple. Yes I have nitrates up at 20ppm also.

betiuminside
Sat, 28th Jan 2012, 12:49 PM
Try to get the other kit. I know it's expensive but it's worth it!
Or take a little bit of water to the LFS or what part of town are you on and maybe someone can test the water for you?
I live 281 and Overlook Parkway if you want to borrow the test.

Monica25
Sat, 28th Jan 2012, 06:52 PM
Thanks. What test kit are you talking about? I live near 410/ I h10. I will let you know and take u up on the offer.

Monica25
Sun, 29th Jan 2012, 11:39 AM
It has been three weeks today since I set it up and the nitrites won't go down from 1.0.... What's going on? I'm getting impatient.

Kristy
Sun, 29th Jan 2012, 12:12 PM
Probably just going to be a few more days, but this is too importent to risk rushing. Asking how long it takes is a little like asking how long it takes bread to get moldy. There are about a million variables. It just takes however long it takes, if that makes sense to you.

Monica25
Sun, 29th Jan 2012, 12:21 PM
Yes it does thanks I feel pretty dumb for getting impatient now

Kristy
Sun, 29th Jan 2012, 01:23 PM
No worries. We all have been there! :)

Monica25
Sun, 29th Jan 2012, 01:44 PM
As long as nitrite doesent go higher it must be getting ready to come down? It's been steady at 1.0 for over a week. Nitrate is 20 and ammonia is 0.

betiuminside
Sun, 29th Jan 2012, 02:02 PM
I don't think it won't go higher...

The nitrogen cycle is composed of 4 basic steps.

Ammonia: Ammonia (NH3) initially enters the system via biological waste. These wastes may come from fish poop or dead organisms which are decaying in the tank. These wastes mineralize into the compound ammonia. Ammonia is a very toxic compound. Bacteria which colonize rock and sand surfaces utilize ammonia as food and convert it into a new compound called nitrite. Ammonia should always measure zero in a fully cycled tank.

Nitrite: Nitrite (NO2) is only slightly less toxic than ammonia. Fortunately, there are other types of bacteria that also colonize sand and rock surfaces which consume nitrites as food and convert them into nitrates. Nitrites should always measure zero in a fully cycled tank.

Nitrate: Nitrate (NO3) is a relatively harmless compound. Nitrates tend to accumulate in the reef system if it is not setup correctly. Fish can tolerate fairly high nitrate levels, but most corals do not. Nitrate is also a plant fertilizer, so its accumulation can lead to algae problems. The brute force way to control nitrates is to do large water changes and therefore dilute the nitrate levels, but there is a better, more natural way to deal with nitrates. Nitrates in a fully cycled tank should ideally remain at zero, but up to about 20ppm is acceptable. Higher levels may lead to issues with coral health or algae growth in the tank. Some corals may actually benefit from the higher nitrate levels, but they are atypical.

Nitrogen: In a properly setup reef tank, the nitrates can be further processed by special types of bacteria which convert the nitrates into harmless nitrogen gases which escape into the atmosphere. When the process includes this step, the nitrogen cycle is completed and the tank will maintain zero nitrates without significant water changes or the requirement for specialized external equipment to remove it from the system. The key to this final step is to provide oxygen poor areas of sand or rock. The bacteria which perform this last step of the process only live in oxygen poor (anaerobic) areas of the tank. The surest way to establish these anaerobic areas is to include a sand bed that has sufficient depth and sufficiently small particle size to restrict water flow in the lower areas of the bed.

allan
Sun, 29th Jan 2012, 02:47 PM
Nice summation, bet.

I'd get a second test result. If your nitrates are rising your nitrites will be zero. The fact that you're showing both makes me think your testing equipment isn't accurate.

Monica25
Sun, 29th Jan 2012, 03:34 PM
Wow that was very cool. Ok is there any kits that aren't super expensive and accurate? I have the saltwater reef kit was about 30 bucks a year ago. With ammonia, nitrite, trate and ph bottles.

betiuminside
Sun, 29th Jan 2012, 04:19 PM
if you have it, use it! :redface:
That's what you need using for testing IMO.
If I misunderstood, then bring your water and I will test it... OR take to the local fish store! They will test it for you... not sure if it will be free or not... but you could ask.
Is this the one? http://www.buy.com/pr/product.aspx?sku=211944334&sellerid=31376753

Scutterborn
Sun, 29th Jan 2012, 04:54 PM
I like this summation as well. It doesn't really mention adding macro to help in the reduction of nitrates though. Very good post.

Monica25
Sun, 29th Jan 2012, 05:32 PM
No I have the one similar that says saltwater test kit exactly like that but "saltwater". I do need it tested.

Squiers007
Sun, 29th Jan 2012, 10:14 PM
I think there is a bit on confusion going on here. The fact that you have nitrate does not mean that you "cannot" have nitrite. As I said before it is not a clear cut transition from one form of nitrogen to another, it takes place progressively with one form being converted to another and then another. If your nitrites are going down and your nitrates are going up then everything is working as it should be.

Now, the only caveat here is if both your nitrite and nitrate are going up, then you have some other source of nitrogen being input into your system that is not getting converted from nitrite to nitrate fast enough. This will hardly ever happen in a marine aquarium unless you are directly adding nitrite to the system with some chemical (not likely).

My guess is your test kits are just fine (unless they are really old), but I would still get them verified with another kit just to be safe. Hang in there, the cycle is almost complete, then you can have fun dealing with the algae cycle that will be in full effect!! Oh the joys of marine aquariums!

Kristy
Sun, 29th Jan 2012, 11:35 PM
You can always take a sample of your water into a LFS for them to test for comparison. Some places do it for free, others have a small charge.

Monica25
Mon, 30th Jan 2012, 12:17 AM
Got a newer test kit. Mine was two years old almost. I'm testing everything now. I will post the results..

Monica25
Mon, 30th Jan 2012, 12:43 AM
Salt is at 1.025
Ph = somewhere between 7.8-8.0
ammonia = 0 ppm
nitrite = 1.0
nitrate = 20ppm

Monica25
Mon, 30th Jan 2012, 06:47 PM
No change in nitrite yet:what_smile:

Monica25
Mon, 30th Jan 2012, 07:50 PM
I don't have the lights on very long. Will this effect the cycle process? I mean like slow it down? I turn them on when I get home from work around 3:30-4:00 till about 10 or 11 at night.

Monica25
Tue, 31st Jan 2012, 10:50 PM
Salt 1.026
ph 8.0
ammonia 0
Nitrite 0.50
nitrate 10ppm


Almost done cycling right? Since nitrate is low am I gonna have to do a water change still once nitrite hits 0? I want to get a cleanup crew already it's getting orangey diatom everywhere!

I hope someone is out there reading this. I feel like marlin In finding memo when he says " where did everybody go"

Sherita
Tue, 31st Jan 2012, 10:56 PM
You are getting close :)

The diatoms are a normal part of the cycle of a new tank. You will also wind up with green hair algae, and quite possibly cyanobacteria. All of those are a part of your startup cycle. Once you drop your nitrites to 0, do a water change. Wait a few days and test again, if everything looks good then you can slowly add your cleanup crew. Don't overload the tank all at once, since your biofiltration will need to play catchup at first.

Sounds like you are headed down the right path. Nothing good happens fast in this hobby, but bad things happen very quickly.

Monica25
Tue, 31st Jan 2012, 11:03 PM
Ok thanks Sherita. It's 14 gallons so how much water should I or do I need to change? Do I rinse the filter pads, clean the bio balls, and rinse the sponge? I'm new to biocubes especially a newly cycled one, so how will I do this? Please help me with advice.

Thanks,
monica

350gt
Tue, 31st Jan 2012, 11:43 PM
I would have ditched the bio balls in favor of LR rubble. I swap the filter pad about 2 times a week in my aquapod. I believe alot of ppl ditch the sponge too, I just use the filter pads and I've never had much issues.

And in my cube I do weekly or bi weekly changes, when Im lazy, of 5 gallons. Makes it so much easier that way, when all I have to do is fill up a bucket to the top, no measuring. I dont know if 5 would be too drastic though on a 14 gallon.

Monica25
Tue, 31st Jan 2012, 11:53 PM
I don't rinse the filter pad yet, right? Since its still cycling.

350gt
Tue, 31st Jan 2012, 11:54 PM
I dont think I swapped mine for awhile... I dont rinse, just toss them....

but i like to pick all copepods off the filter first ;-)

Monica25
Wed, 1st Feb 2012, 12:28 AM
Ok thanks for that. I'm getting excited that it's almost done. I have wanted a cleaner shrimp,forever. Think I can get one when it's done? Or should I just start with snails?

Sherita
Wed, 1st Feb 2012, 01:44 AM
A good rule of thumb is 10-15% per water change (so, about 1 1/2-2 gallons for your tank, weekly or bi-weekly), so that is where I would start. I agree with ditching the bioballs in favor of live rock rubble (better biofiltration and less likely to become nitrate factories like the bioballs), and I would just toss the filters rather than trying to reuse them. I can't offer any opinion on the sponge, since I don't use them.

I would start with your snails first. Once you are sure they are doing well (a week or two at least), then get your cleaner shrimp. Be sure to drip acclimate your shrimp when the time comes, they don't respond well to sudden changes in water parameters.

On a tank as small as yours, keep an eye on salinity. You can get some major salinity swings with evaporation in 14 gallons of water. If you don't have one, I would invest in an auto topoff. I have them on all of my tanks, the best investment I ever made.

Do you know what your alkalinity is? You will need to be testing for that as well (not the same as ph). Depending on what corals you want to keep, you may need to test for calcium and magnesium, but if you do routine water changes you probably will not need to dose for either.

350gt
Wed, 1st Feb 2012, 02:21 AM
Ya just keep on track with your water changes and you shouldn't need to dose, I never have...... Also a auto top off is good, as sherita said, but with a closed hood evaporation is not that much at all... So just keep a jug of RO water near by for quick top offs if your not going to get a ATO.

I would wait on the cleaner shrimp, get you clean up crew and see what happens..... Cleaner shrimp will always be available... And be sure to acclimate him properly when you do get him..... I learned the hard way the 1st time....

Monica25
Wed, 1st Feb 2012, 07:01 PM
Thank you both. I'm excited my nitrite is 0.25 just one color away now from the perfect blue!!!! I think I will keep the water ready and just top it off myself since its small,and closed. Even my nitrate is low. Can I start off with a starfish and a couple of snails? Please say yes. I would like a small fromia the marbled one.

350gt
Wed, 1st Feb 2012, 08:33 PM
Just DO IT... cant believe you have held on this long. I applaud you for the patience, that even I couldnt have. I would do a few snails, wait on the star. Are you putting any kind of fish?

Kristy
Wed, 1st Feb 2012, 09:35 PM
+1 on holding off on the starfish. They require a level of stability that a new system just won't have for a couple more months at least.

Monica25
Wed, 1st Feb 2012, 10:02 PM
I want fish but gonna wait till tank looks clean. Eventually I want a black clown, blenny or watchman. But not in a hurry. Thanks, it's been hard but being small I want to make sure I do things right. I know even in perfect water things are risky so all the more for me to wait. I honestly have enjoyed just watching the water get bad then good!

350gt
Wed, 1st Feb 2012, 10:35 PM
well, hopefully not but we have all gone through our rough times at one point or another.... So bad times are not over, but as long as you commit to your tank, then you will be fine. Accidents happen to those that rush or neglect there tank. Just stay on top of your water changes and you will be fine.... I dont even know the last time I tested my water, besides my PH and salinity during routine water changes I dont really check..... sure its not a good thing but I usually stay on top of the water changes, SO i consider myself lucky. If I didnt, I am sure I would be in the emergency section alot more often.....

Again, I dont dose cause I dont test......... thats another good rule to keep in mind.

Sherita
Thu, 2nd Feb 2012, 12:04 AM
I would wait on the star, they do best in a well established tank, kinda like nems. For the first year, you will have some parameter swings as your tank matures, so don't get in a hurry to do anything. Sensitive creatures such as cucumbers, urchins, starfish and nems really need a mature stable tank. Getting in a rush with any of these creatures will condemn them to death, and you to frustration.

And 350GT is right, sometimes bad things just "happen" in this hobby, no matter how hard you try. I crashed one of my display tanks last year, reason is still unknown. Pretty much lost all lps and sps, only the softies survived. Have no idea why. So, do the best you can, accept that sometimes stuff happens, and you will enjoy this hobby :)

Monica25
Thu, 2nd Feb 2012, 12:14 AM
Yes thanks. I had a 46 bow front before but I lost corals before and it hurt. And I was,careful,but not nearly as careful,as,I'm trying now andvwill be this time around. I just want a little colorful tank.

Monica25
Thu, 2nd Feb 2012, 05:37 PM
Done!!!!!!

salt 1.026
ph 8.2
ammonia 0
Nitrite 0!!!!!!
nitratre looks like 5 maybe 10ppm

Now what?:whew:

rrasco
Thu, 2nd Feb 2012, 05:41 PM
Get yourself a cleanup crew and maybe a fish or an easy coral. Make sure you acclimate everything. Have you read up on drip acclimation yet?

Monica25
Thu, 2nd Feb 2012, 05:52 PM
But dont I have to do a water change?

rrasco
Thu, 2nd Feb 2012, 06:00 PM
I've heard both ways. On one hand you can do a water change to reduce the nitrates and on the other there are arguments it could cause your tank to go into a mini cycle. In my opinion, I think it's okay to do a water change as you normally would, just don't do a big one. 10% should be good.

Monica25
Thu, 2nd Feb 2012, 08:16 PM
I guess in a 14 gallon maybe 1,2 or 3 gallons?

Monica25
Fri, 3rd Feb 2012, 09:29 AM
My tank is fully cycled now and I'm excited. However, I have some questions...

Its 14 gallons. Well more like twelve with rock probably.

How much water do I change out, so that I don't create a mini cycle?
Can I add a cleanup crew right away after like today?
My nitrate is really low, do I still have to do the water change?
If I buy a five gallon bucket of premixed water and just keep it stored since I only need a little at a time, will it go bad?

Please if someone can give me the answers so that I can proceed.

Thanks,
Monica

350gt
Fri, 3rd Feb 2012, 09:39 AM
Ur going to want to keep plain RO water on hand for top offs. So I would keep at least 5 or 10 gallons on hand for top offs and quick water changes. Just buy a small bucket of your own salt.....

Monica25
Fri, 3rd Feb 2012, 09:43 AM
That's right cuz top offs are plain since salt doesent evaporate. I have a bag of salt it's about a year old. Should still be good? It's been sealed tight.

Monica25
Fri, 3rd Feb 2012, 01:09 PM
http://www.maast.org/images/icons/icon1.png
My tank is fully cycled now and I'm excited. However, I have some questions...

Its 14 gallons. Well more like twelve with rock probably.

How much water do I change out, so that I don't create a mini cycle?
Can I add a cleanup crew right away after like today?
My nitrate is really low, do I still have to do the water change?
If I buy a five gallon bucket of premixed water and just keep it stored since I only need a little at a time, will it go bad?

Please if someone can give me the answers so that I can proceed.

Thanks,
Monica


Last edited by Monica25 (http://www.maast.org/posthistory.php?p=849287); Fri, 3rd Feb 2012 at 12:08 PM. Reason: Bump

betiuminside
Fri, 3rd Feb 2012, 04:11 PM
How much water do I change out, so that I don't create a mini cycle?
I would start with 15% of the water volume.

Can I add a cleanup crew right away after like today?
I would put them in, yes after the water change. Just do the proper acclimatization


My nitrate is really low, do I still have to do the water change?
Yes! You want to have them at 0 if possible.

If I buy a five gallon bucket of premixed water and just keep it stored since I only need a little at a time, will it go bad?
If you have premix Salwaltwater I would keep a pump in there

Also I don't believe the salt would go bad if it was properly storaged.

GOOD JOB!

Monica25
Fri, 3rd Feb 2012, 07:29 PM
Wow thanks for answering all my questions. I really appreciate that so much. Thanks I'm about to do the water change then add my first snails. I'm excited! Got 2 nerite mad 2 cerith!!! Thanks so much again for those answers!

Monica25
Sat, 4th Feb 2012, 12:51 AM
Well i.did a two gallon water change , let it clear up then very slowly aclimated my two nerite and rwo cerith snails. Thet got busy cleaning.

Monica25
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 04:29 PM
My tank looks so ugly red junk everywhere and I have 4snails only! What's gonna make this go away? I don't have high nitrates. Its on the sand rock and glass... I will post a picture.

Monica25
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 04:47 PM
http://www.maast.org/asset.php?fid=12818&uid=10583&d=1328477987

Monica25
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 04:48 PM
14057

polarbear
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 04:48 PM
Seem like you don't have enough flow. What are you running in the tank for circulation?

Monica25
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 04:50 PM
thats my newly cycled tank... i have two nerite and two cerith snails. i did a water change two days ago and everything is perfect all paremiters. but this is what it looks like. is there anything i can do? do i get a sandsifting fish so the sand can start getting moved or what do i do? i dont really want to add a fish in these nasty conditions but if i should let me know. what about a starfish?

allan
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 04:51 PM
Post a pic, sounds like cyano. I've controlled mine with regular waterchanges. Apparently it works.

allan
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 04:53 PM
Polar is right, more flow. But regular water changes will help as well.

polarbear
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 04:57 PM
Ya. Water changes as well. I know you just did one but try to get another one in. Also it's hard to sift the sand in such a small tank before you reach your max on how much water you want to take out but if you can try to suck off the cyano when your doing the water change. Get a Koralia nano for the tank as well.

Monica25
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 05:08 PM
Ok thanks gonna see if someone has one if not I will look into them for sure. So no starfish or sand sifter fish yet?

polarbear
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 05:11 PM
I wouldn't buy a sand sifting fish yet. It will just cover up the problem which might be a flow issue. And don't by a sand sifting star. They are had to keep and will die in a new system no mater what the fish store might tell you.

Monica25
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 05:13 PM
Yeah well I was thinking of a fromia starfish. Not yet?

allan
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 05:15 PM
Yeah, they sift the sand looking for food, in a new system you don't have enough foodstuff to sustain it.

Besides, in a small tank a star fish will take up a lot of space.

polarbear
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 05:22 PM
Yep. I've even lost sand sifting stars in my 90 gallon. Can never tell with them. But for sure don't buy one. Just spend the money on a circulation fan and just give it some time.

Monica25
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 05:22 PM
Thanks I will keep that in mind.

Polarbear I know I also have a biocube, are u using a koralia nano?

Monica25
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 05:40 PM
Do I need a 240 or a 425?

Kristy
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 05:53 PM
My tank looks so ugly red junk everywhere and I have 4snails only! What's gonna make this go away? I don't have high nitrates. Its on the sand rock and glass... I will post a picture.

Guess we should have warned you to expect this. Read up on Cyanobacteria. It pretty much always visits a young tank right after it finishes cycling. Hopefully it doesn't bring it's BFF to the party, hair algae. All you can do is diligently maintain the tank with frequent small water changes (recommend weekly) and manual removal . Increased flow seems to discourage it but every tank fights this fight. Just when you think you've won it altogether, it rears its ugly head again!

And +1 (or maybe more like +5) on the no starfish advice. Suggest you wait 6 months for better stability.

polarbear
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 06:05 PM
Yes I use one in my 14 gallon biocube. Not sure about the 240 or 425. Just thought they were nanos.

Monica25
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 06:08 PM
Ok thanks, so I wanted to stick my hand in there and clean it off but thought the snails would starve if I did. I think maybe I have to much water in the tank. It's way way past maximum. Maybe I will take some water out while I rub the stuff off and try and get some off the sand. Is this a good idea?

FireWater
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 06:09 PM
Guess we should have warned you to expect this. Read up on Cyanobacteria. It pretty much always visits a young tank right after it finishes cycling. Hopefully it doesn't bring it's BFF to the party, hair algae. All you can do is diligently maintain the tank with frequent small water changes (recommend weekly) and manual removal . Increased flow seems to discourage it but every tank fights this fight. Just when you think you've won it altogether, it rears its ugly head again!

And +1 (or maybe more like +5) on the no starfish advice. Suggest you wait 6 months for better stability.

What Kristy said. It happens. Start the maintenance cycle and be diligent about it. When you do the water changes try to siphon out as much of the film as you can. You will get ahead of it eventually with proper care of the tank.

FireWater
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 06:10 PM
Just moving it around won't help. You need to get it out.

polarbear
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 06:27 PM
Just moving it around won't help. You need to get it out.

Not sure if you said this because I talked about getting the circulation fan but your right. Getting it out is what needs to be done. I just know from experience that flow helps with this as well.

Monica25
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 06:41 PM
Thanks everyone. I'm gonna just take some water out cuz I have way to much its so far past the maximum level. I think I will wipe it off the walls and then siphon it out with the vacuum not directly on the sand but a little over it. Then just top it off with ro water after if and only if I took out more than I needed. As far as a powerhead I do need one for sure but what size 240 or 425? Does my plan sound good or any suggestions?

FireWater
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 07:11 PM
Not sure if you said this because I talked about getting the circulation fan but your right. Getting it out is what needs to be done. I just know from experience that flow helps with this as well.

Not said in reference to you, and you are correct that extra flow is needed and helps with the cyano gaining a spot to hold on.

Monica, the 240 should work ok on a tank that small. If you want extra then buy the 425. It has been a while since I have had a small tank so I am a little rusty on those.

Monica25
Sun, 5th Feb 2012, 07:23 PM
Thanks I will get a 240!

Monica25
Tue, 7th Feb 2012, 09:16 PM
Help! My tank ran the full cycle totally. Now I have 0.25 ammonia and I'm confused. What's going in what do I do?... All I have is snails....


Do I do a water change? O I check again tomm and then go from there? I really don't know why this happened!

Monica25
Tue, 7th Feb 2012, 09:18 PM
Let me check nitrate and nitrite.

Monica25
Tue, 7th Feb 2012, 09:44 PM
Ph 8.0
nitrite 0
Amonia O or 0.25
nitrate 5.0 ppm

FireWater
Tue, 7th Feb 2012, 11:35 PM
Any of the snails die?

Monica25
Tue, 7th Feb 2012, 11:47 PM
Nope they are all alive and eating.

FireWater
Wed, 8th Feb 2012, 10:43 AM
What are the readings today? The tank may have bad a small spike adjusting to the new bio load.

Monica25
Wed, 8th Feb 2012, 10:27 PM
Should I do a water change if I have 0.25 ammonia and diatom? My tank has been cycled already.

350gt
Wed, 8th Feb 2012, 10:40 PM
What do you have for filtration...... Sorry if I missed it.

Monica25
Wed, 8th Feb 2012, 11:48 PM
It's a 14 biocube just live rock and a few snails.

polarbear
Thu, 9th Feb 2012, 12:00 AM
I believe he was asking what are you using to filter the water as in are you using the stock biocube filter pads or something different?

Monica25
Thu, 9th Feb 2012, 12:10 AM
I'm using the stock.,haven't changed anything. Should I do a two,gallon water change? I have lots of diatom anyways.

Monica25
Thu, 9th Feb 2012, 01:22 AM
Kinda bummed... I just did a two gallon water change since I had ammonia 0.25 and nitrate 5ppm. Ph is perfect and nitrite is perfect. Well my tank cycled and all I have is 7 little snails which all seem to be fine. But I have been wanting to add a fish or a coral. This diatom orangy brownish red stuff is getting on my nerves. The snails seem to clean it up but I think it's more than they can handle. I'm removing it myself some of it at least. The rocks have quite a bit on them. Would a diamond goby be to big for my tank? I really want pretty sand. I really want to see something in my tank. I have a cat and he looks in there and sees nothing also. Thomas used to really enjoy watching my fish before and now he looks for nemo and sees nothing..

350gt
Thu, 9th Feb 2012, 01:42 AM
pics?

Monica25
Thu, 9th Feb 2012, 08:56 PM
Today all levels are perfect after the water change and manual removal of the reddish brown stuff. But the glass is getting it again. I guess I will remove it again. So is the sand. The rock looks a little better today. Should I get a tiger fighting conch for the sand?

Monica25
Thu, 9th Feb 2012, 08:58 PM
I will post a picture in a little bit.

Scutterborn
Thu, 9th Feb 2012, 09:36 PM
I am still fighting the diatom bloom too. It's very annoying, I agree. On my QT I didn't do anything for the diatom bloom and it went away after a week or so. I think by disrupting the sand bed you are surfacing new silicates that the diatoms feed on. Until they consume enough and reach an equilibrium the brown orangey sand will continue. Anyone is free to correct me on this. I keep mixing up my sand and I've got the same problem. -not hijacking, just personal experience- my tank is only 4 days older than yours!!

reefreak
Thu, 9th Feb 2012, 09:49 PM
yes a diamond goby will clean it up they sift the sand all day

Monica25
Thu, 9th Feb 2012, 10:03 PM
So what's helping your diatom scutter? My tank is only 14 gallons.. Should I get a
diamond goby
two spot goby or
fighting conch

Someone please let me know

Scutterborn
Thu, 9th Feb 2012, 10:48 PM
I still have the nasty looking sand. The LFS sold my wife a sea cucumber stating it would clean it up but now it living in my rock and only pokes it head out from time to time. I'm taking the "cuke" back, if I can get it out of the rock, and I think I'm gonna try a diamond goby. I just worry about one in such a small tank though. They can get just over 6" I hear. Let's get some opinions on keeping diamond gobies going and whether they would be suitable long term.... Anyone care to chime in?

Monica25
Fri, 10th Feb 2012, 12:01 AM
Please experts help scutter and I. yes I would be careful with a cuc if it dies your tank can have a major problem.

Monica25
Fri, 10th Feb 2012, 12:45 AM
Anyone want to advice us?

Kristy
Fri, 10th Feb 2012, 01:08 AM
Diamond gobies will jump out if kept in too small a tank, they need a little swimming room and get pretty big for a biocube.

Diatom happens. Then it goes away. As long as you practice good tank maintenance, the diatom isn't going to be harmful to your inhabitants.

I wouldn't make your livestock selections based on this issue. Just make your livestock plan of what you would like to keep in the tank and add them v-e-r-y slowly so that the additional bioload doesn't cause any of your water parameters to go askew.

Monica25
Fri, 10th Feb 2012, 08:11 AM
Thanks.. What is the best bet for clean sand in our tanks though?

Squiers007
Fri, 10th Feb 2012, 08:11 AM
As Kristy said, the diamond goby is a bad choice for a tank this small. Be patient with the diatoms, they will go away on there own. Along with the nitrate cycle your tank just completed, tanks go through an algae cycle as well which the diatoms are a part of. I used to have this great graph showing the different types of algae and when they peak, but I can't seem to find it. As always be patient and go slow.

FireWater
Fri, 10th Feb 2012, 09:03 AM
One of the things about the different "cycles" that our tanks go through is if you interrupt that cycle you can cause other issues. I have always felt that with good and consistent maintenance you can alleviate most issues people have with tanks.

Livestock can help with the look of the sand, but other things such as regular water changes and maintenance of the sand will help as well too. Unfortunately with a smaller tank you are somewhat limited to what livestock you put in it. I have never been a fan of buying a fish that you know will outgrow your tank.

Scutterborn
Fri, 10th Feb 2012, 01:19 PM
I really agree. I'm gonna just wait it out and bite my lip. What do you think Monica?

Big_Pun
Fri, 10th Feb 2012, 04:24 PM
I nominate this for thread of the quarter...... wow 180 replies!!

rrasco
Fri, 10th Feb 2012, 04:35 PM
LOL. Nobody cared about my new tank that much.

Kristy
Fri, 10th Feb 2012, 08:12 PM
LOL. Nobody cared about my new tank that much.
You didn't ask 175 questions in your thread! :)

Monica25
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 03:03 AM
Gee thanks sorry for all the questions... I did appreciate and have to thank EVERYONE here who supported me and I'm sure others who are new and starting little tanks have also benefited from the support and replies. Scutter I decided on no diamond goby. Just gonna let it go away on its own and keep up with it. Hopefully starts looking better for us soon.

Scutterborn
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 01:22 PM
I stopped posting on mine because I figured we both seemed to be going the same route and I tagged along. This thread has also been of great help to me!

kkiel02
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 01:30 PM
When your new to this hobby you cannot ask enough questions. There are soooo many things you can learn from others mistakes. Patience is the biggest thing to learn by far. THis is because we are creating miniature ecosystems and every little change affects the whole system.

Monica25
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 02:03 PM
Thank you. Sounds so awesome "creating miniature ecosystems". Well I'm glad you are able to benefit also scutter. Everyone is helping our new tanks!

Monica25
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 04:14 PM
I have a problem. My ammonia and nitrite are both testing at 0.25 ppm.... I don't know why.

Nitrate is 5ppm
ph is 8.0
salt is 1.022
temp is 68

Whats concerning me is ammonia and nitrite. I have 7 snails that seem fine.

My tank had completed the cycle over a week ago. So I don't understand what's going on.

Should I do a water change? Like a five gallon?
get a heater? Or a powerhead? Change the filter? Take out the sponge in the chamber?Would any of this help? Maybe it would be good for the snails.

Scutterborn
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 05:28 PM
Temp and Sg are too low IMO. The low temp could account for some of the drop in SG. Lower temp = less dissolved oxygen. I'd do a 20% water change and get a small heater. I'm also not an expert. Kinda putting this out there to be possibly slapped in the hands! Lol!

Monica25
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 05:35 PM
Oh my gosh that made me laugh

Scutterborn
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 05:38 PM
I would wait on my advice except on the heater till someone more experienced chimes in. Just my gut reaction. :)

Monica25
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 05:42 PM
Gonna go get a heater. Maybe the snails will be more active, right?

Scutterborn
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 06:03 PM
Maybe. I know I'm lethargic and lazy when I'm cold!!

Scutterborn
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 06:04 PM
Any changes with the diatoms today?

Monica25
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 06:05 PM
Yeah they hide under their shell still and I hide under my blanket still. Who has the best prices on dry goods,like heaters?

Scutterborn
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 09:00 PM
I think petsmart has these little 50w heaters for around 15 bucks. I also picked up 5 nassarius snails today. All I have are 5 Astraea snails.

Monica25
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 09:10 PM
That's cool those nassarius are great. I have 2 of them. 1 Astraea 2 nerite and 2 cerriths. Do u have any fish or still only the yellow tail damsel?

Scutterborn
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 10:51 PM
I picked up a mandarin against my better judgement. He's doing great and all sorts of fat and happy. I'm still working on getting him to eat prepared food. I know it's a challenge but I'm gonna try. I still had a bajillion pods in the tank. I still have been unable to catch that damsel. It literally hides inside my rock. Gonna make a fish trap from a soda bottle sometime this week. I hope it works like it does for shrimp.

kkiel02
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 11:28 PM
Yeah scutterborn is right about the heater. Most reef tanks stay between 76-82 degrees depending on the tank inhabitants. The spike in nitrite and ammonia may be from a dead snail...

Monica25
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 11:32 PM
I can't find a dead snail anywhere. I think it's cuz I put food in there just to see if the snails would come out and they did but maybe they didn't eat all the food. I'm sad about Whitney Houston.

Monica25
Sat, 11th Feb 2012, 11:33 PM
Checked the water again and yes it's the same. 0.25 ammonia 0.25 nitrite. I think I should do a water change to morrow to get the uneaten food out and maybe this will lower the levels.

Squiers007
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 11:56 AM
Uneaten food?? Are you feeding the snails? If so, what, how much, and how often??

Monica25
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 12:32 PM
No I just did it once.

Monica25
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 01:16 PM
The diatom looks better I think. The levels are still the same. I think I'm gonna do a water change today. Maybe five gallons. I'm not sure if the problem was the H.E.B filtered water I used to fill the jugs. Before that I had used the water mill express and it was fine. So today I think I'm gonna get the water at the fish store. Also I rinsed the filter pad under the regular faucet. I think I made a lot of mistakes. After all the patience I made soo many mistakes I feel. Plus feeding the snails marine cuisine. I honestly don't know where to go from here other than do a water change.

Monica25
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 01:17 PM
And my water is still cold. And I still don't have a powerhead.

Monica25
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 01:18 PM
Just thought I would confess all so I can hopefully get help.

Monica25
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 01:19 PM
Am I starting the cycle process all over cuz of all this?

allan
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 02:15 PM
Hi Monica!

You may not need a pwr head, IF your return is pushing enough volume. But you should look to getting one soon.

No, I think most will call it a mini-cycle. When you go get water at the LFS take a sample of yours for testing.

I can't say this enough although I may be the only one saying it. Water changes are to lower your nitrates. Not the other two. If your trates are climbing then do the w/c. But not to lower your am and trites.

Perhaps if you had livestock that was in danger of the first two... But you only have a cuc, right?

Monica25
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 02:51 PM
Yes I only have a clean up crew. So only if my nitritates are up to maybe 10 or over should I do a water change? The ammonia and trites will just take care of themselves them again like the first cycle? So then I should just leave it alone, unless they rise some more?

Monica25
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 02:55 PM
Thank you for replying Allen. Since I used the wrong water though should I do the water change today?

350gt
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 03:22 PM
Why are you feeding your snails?

And I used the windmill water for awhile with no problems.... I personally wouldn't use HEB brand water.. i

merlini
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 03:32 PM
Hi, I just finished reading all the post and I have a biocube 14, too. Seems like you run into nitrite and nitrate problems a lot, have you done any mods to your biocube when you first got it, like cutting between chamber 1 and 2 for more flow, ditchbioball, replace stock pump, stevie T media basket, ```

Scutterborn
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 03:45 PM
Is the heater not working? What size did you get? I'm running a 100w in the 28g nano so it stays really constant.

FireWater
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 04:00 PM
I am having a hard time following..... You did or did not do a water change already? If you have not then I would go ahead and do one. Also, wherever you get your water you really need to have a way of testing it prior to using it. If I were to drop off a jug of "water" on your doorstep, would you use it with out hesitation? I would hope not.

And how long has the heater been going? It will take a little while for all the water to come up to temp.

As you add stuff the water parameters will have to "readjust" to the new bioload. There is a chance that you will see several mini cycles. Just keep an eye on it.

Monica25
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 04:13 PM
Well I don't really run into it a lot. I just checked everything and it looks as though ammonia went back down to 0 so that's good. Nitrite is 0.25 and nitrate looks like 5ppm. It's a mini cycle like Allen said. No I haven't done anything to it not really ready to do anything like that yet.

Monica25
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 04:20 PM
Sorry I did a water change on Thursday and I didn't check it. It was a HEB outside at their water thing. I haven't gotten the heater yet. But I will today.

FireWater
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 04:23 PM
Well I don't really run into it a lot. I just checked everything and it looks as though ammonia went back down to 0 so that's good. Nitrite is 0.25 and nitrate looks like 5ppm. It's a mini cycle like Allen said. No I haven't done anything to it not really ready to do anything like that yet.

It's good that the levels are coming around. You are doing a great job by testing regularly. Lots of people get very lazy or forgiving when it comes to testing. Once you get some coral and other inhabitants in the tank they will do a great job of letting you know when the water is optimal.

I don't understand your last sentence above though. What have you not done or not ready to do?

FireWater
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 04:24 PM
Never mind, I see that you were responding to one of the first posts on this page.

Monica25
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 04:25 PM
Mods to the cube. Everything is just the way I bought it. I was hoping I could leave everything as it is.

FireWater
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 04:33 PM
You should be fine with running it stock. Only thing I would think about would be to remember to clean the bio-balls out one in a while. Back when I had a bio-cube I would remove about 1/2 of the bio-balls every month or so and swish them around in waste tank water to remove large pieces of detritus. Never had any issues. Also, there are a couple of areas that will accumulate detritus such as in the bottom of the 1sst chamber and below the tray where the bio-balls are- clean those areas once in a while.

Monica25
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 05:14 PM
Thank u very much for that advice. I will do that.

Monica25
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 07:39 PM
Got a koralia nano. Where is the best place to set it? Also got a heater. Thanks Ryan!

Scutterborn
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 09:32 PM
Since you don't really have any corals upset i would set it so it didn't blow the sand around but kept any detritus from being able to settle. Keep it in the water column so it will end up in the filter.

Monica25
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 09:41 PM
Like on the left or right? Facing the front glass?

FireWater
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 09:44 PM
Facing the front glass at an angle is best. It will take you a couple tries to get it right. After you blow the sand around a couple of times you will find the sweet spot. Try it opposite of the return.

Big_Pun
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 10:06 PM
would have been easier to put a return pump with a higher gph and dual lockine outlet. mod the rear chamber and run some chemipure elite in back chamber. none of my 5 cubes where stock all modded

Monica25
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 10:15 PM
Big pun that's so confusing dude.. Firewater, u mean on the side where the water is taken in, or where the water is coming out?

Big_Pun
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 10:28 PM
here you go....http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=278985

read and enjoy!!

FireWater
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 10:33 PM
There are plenty of upgrades, mods, and other things you can do with BC's. Just take your time and enjoy what you have for now.

I would place it opposite of the return coming into the tank - pump output.

Monica25
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 11:10 PM
Thanks that's awesome information. Got it firewater thanks. Thanks big pun I really love the website so many possibilities

merlini
Sun, 12th Feb 2012, 11:21 PM
check out the biocube resource guide while you on nano-reef.com
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=180788
you can find pretty much all the mods and upgrades.

Scutterborn
Mon, 13th Feb 2012, 12:20 AM
I'm still tryin to angle my duckbill powerheads just right! It seem like a never ending deal!

Monica25
Mon, 13th Feb 2012, 12:31 AM
Yeah I don't know if mine is okay

Scutterborn
Mon, 13th Feb 2012, 10:25 AM
How is your algae/diatom issue today? I've been working 14 hr days since Wednesday and haven't seen my tank without moonlights. I've confirmed today it's cyano everywhere on the sand and rock.

Monica25
Mon, 13th Feb 2012, 07:29 PM
Today it looks so clean I don't know if it's cuz my lights have been off all day till now or if it's yhe powerhead and heater. Let's see how it looks later tonight after its been on. How is your manderine? Is yours clearing up also?

350gt
Mon, 13th Feb 2012, 08:17 PM
lights off all day? are they not on a timer?

Monica25
Mon, 13th Feb 2012, 08:22 PM
No I usually turn them on but today I had to work the after school program till six. I have a timer I think I will have to set it.

Monica25
Tue, 14th Feb 2012, 12:26 AM
So I checked my water and my ammonia is back at 0.25 and nitrite is also. Yesterday early the ammonia was perfect at zero. I set the powerhead and of course as it was mentioned I did blow sand all around trying to set it. Could this be the reason? I really don't want to do a water change unless I have nitrate up. Does anyone know what might be the reason?

Monica25
Tue, 14th Feb 2012, 11:54 PM
Someone please help with some advice. The tank looks so so much cleaner first off all. But the ammonia is 0.25 nitrite 0.50 now ph 8.0 salt 1.022 nitrate 10ppm. Im confused... All snails are alive and active.. The powerhead is a koralia nano 425. Really good flow.... I don't know what's going on. The heater is in the chamber in front of the filter. I had completed the cycle two weeks ago almost and now this is happening and I don't know why I'm not even feeding the tank, since the snails have been eating algae and diatom. I really wish I could get a fish or a coral, but I'm totally lost.

Monica25
Wed, 15th Feb 2012, 12:31 AM
Bump

Bill S
Wed, 15th Feb 2012, 12:34 AM
Monica, which ammonia test kit are you using. Some, including API, will often show a minor positive test result when none is present. Either get a sample to a store, or bring one to me and we'll test your water. Be SURE and take your kits with you, so you can both test the same water.

Monica25
Wed, 15th Feb 2012, 07:55 AM
I'm using API. Will the water still be good for testing by the time I get to your house? Aquarium designs once told me that it wouldn't test well if I take longer than 30 minutes to test it?

Squiers007
Wed, 15th Feb 2012, 10:20 AM
You should be ok for testing ammonia wthin an hr or so, provided you put it in a sealed container. The only one you need to test immediately is pH, the rest can sit for a little bit though I wouldnt let any sit for more than an hr before testing. If they do sit for a while be sure to mix the water well right before you test it, you'd be surprised how much this will change the reading.

Sent from my Ally using Tapatalk

Bill S
Wed, 15th Feb 2012, 11:04 AM
Put it in a sealed ziplock. The critical piece here is that you want to compare the results of your kit to theirs. The API Ammonia kit has often shown a small positive, for as long as I can remember. Which is a long time.

Monica25
Wed, 15th Feb 2012, 05:30 PM
Ok I will do that. I tested it again a little while ago and it was still the same. If these readings are correct, should I do a water change?

Monica25
Sun, 19th Feb 2012, 01:02 AM
My amónica id at 0.25 and Nitrate is at 5ppm Nitrate perfect ph 8.0 steady. Thursday I bought these little algae tabs to feed the snails. I threw a little in and I guess they didn't like it cuz they are on the bottom on the sand decomposing. Is this why my ammonia is up? How do I get it out? Should I remove the rock carefully and siphon it out while performing a water change?mshould I replace the filter it's been used since januarary 8th? Do I take out the sponge of my biocube? I really want to know what to do. I want a fish or a shrimp but not till the ammonia is fixed. Please help me someone.

350gt
Sun, 19th Feb 2012, 01:28 AM
You don't need to feed your snails....

Monica25
Sun, 19th Feb 2012, 02:11 AM
Ok thanks I know that now, but what do I do now?

kkiel02
Sun, 19th Feb 2012, 05:53 AM
I would try and syphon out as much of the food as possible.

Monica25
Sun, 19th Feb 2012, 10:43 AM
Ok, that's probably what's causing the ammonia? Do I need to change the filter? Clean the bio balls? Clean the sponge?