Which RODI?

[rrasco]

What system does everyone use from Buckeye?

[BuckeyeHydro]

Our 75 gpd Premiums Series is our best seller!
BFS-161 Premium Series 75 gpd RO/DI System on this page:
http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=168&Sub=166

Russ

[rrasco]

What does the premium series offer the value series does not? I see it comes with a 20,000 gallon carbon block over the 6,000 gallon blocks in the value series, but that's all I notice different. Also, I would assume the 150gpd would be the best buy since it's only about $20 more...is there a reason to get the 75gpd over the 150gpd?

[350gt]

I bought a used buckeye..... Best investment so far....

[BuckeyeHydro]

Features found on the Premium Series but not on the Value line:
-all clear housings
-pressure gauge
-DI bypass
-flush valve
-1 mic sediment filter
-0.5 mic carbon block
-TDS meter

Russ

[BuckeyeHydro]

The kicker with the 150 gpd is that it requires 65 psi rather than the 50 psi needed by all the other membranes.

Russ

[BuckeyeHydro]

I bought a used buckeye..... Best investment so far....

We like to hear that!

[rrasco]

The kicker with the 150 gpd is that it requires 65 psi rather than the 50 psi needed by all the other membranes.

Russ

And that is dependent on my house having that kind of pressure or I would need a booster pump, correct?

[BuckeyeHydro]

And that is dependent on my house having that kind of pressure or I would need a booster pump, correct?

Right.

[350gt]

We like to hear that!


I did order a new filter set and 50' of line to run the drainage into my grass...


About the psi, I thought I read 40-50 was ideal? I'm at 42, is that okay? My system is a I believe 100gpd.

[BuckeyeHydro]

I did order a new filter set and 50' of line to run the drainage into my grass...


About the psi, I thought I read 40-50 was ideal? I'm at 42, is that okay? My system is a I believe 100gpd.

The 100 gpd membrane is tested at the factory under a standard set of conditions including water temperature (77F) and water pressure (50 psi). Don't interpret this to mean that 50 psi is ideal - it is just the standard test condition under which the membrane will produce 100 gpd. Higher pressure is better. The membrane can handle up to about 300 psi - but other components in your system can't - so about 80 is as high as you'd want to take it if you had a booster pump. At less than 40 psi you just can't get the membrane to work worth a darn. At 42 psi you are "right on the edge."

Russ

[350gt]

Thanks idk how many water changes were on the filters so I bought a set to have on standby, would this play any factor in a low psi? Going to change them to be on the safe side before my next water change regardless...

[350gt]

Sorry for the thread jack rrasco, wasn't on purpose.... But maybe this info would helpful to u as well.:thumbs_up:

[BuckeyeHydro]

Thanks idk how many water changes were on the filters so I bought a set to have on standby, would this play any factor in a low psi? Going to change them to be on the safe side before my next water change regardless...

Clogged prefilters is one of the most common causes of low pressure.

Russ

[rrasco]

Sorry for the thread jack rrasco, wasn't on purpose.... But maybe this info would helpful to u as well.:thumbs_up:

All good, I got the info I needed.

[rrasco]

If I were to get the 75gpd....how on earth do I fill up a 210? Does the filter stop working after 75 gallons or is that a rating for the average use and life of the membrane?

[BuckeyeHydro]

75 gpd means the system will make 75 gallons per day if your give it the conditions specified by the factory (50 psi, 77 degree water, etc). Less pressure or colder water and the membrane will make less than 75 gpd. How much less? Check out the calculator on our web page where you can plug in the conditions at your house.

Russ

[rrasco]

So does it run 24/7 and 'make' that amount over the course of 24 hours, or it's only capable of making so much water before it shuts off? I figured it would be like an inline water filter.

[BuckeyeHydro]

You can run it 24/7, or 10 minutes a week - either is OK. For filling a 210, you'd probably run it for 3+ days straight. You might exhaust the DI cartridge with making that number of gallons, but not the rest of the filters.

If you exhaust the DI cartridge (that is, start getting anything but 0 TDS from the DI cartridge), you'd just change the resin out and you'd be back in business in 5 minutes.

Russ

[rrasco]

I guess what I am trying to ask is...does it take 24 hours to make 75 gallons of RODI water at optimal conditions?

[BuckeyeHydro]

Yes sir - "gallons per day" = number of gallons of pure water produced in 24 hrs time.

[rrasco]

As you can tell, I'm a RODI noob. I thought they flowed as freely as other faucet filters. Thanks for clearing that up. If I'm going to exhaust the DI filling up the tank do I just buy one of these DI cartridges and replace it?

http://buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=40&Sub=127

[BuckeyeHydro]

rrasco - you have a PM!

Don't worry about being new to RODI systems - everyone on this board who has one was there once too (me included!)!

Russ

[Gseclipse02]

what does it mean when ur flowing more water than you use to out of the good water section ? i need to check the rates of waste to good

[BuckeyeHydro]

Could be a number of things:
your membrane has a hole/tear/leak in it
Your RO membrane housing has an internal leak
you changed your prefilters and now have higher pressure
your water temperature went up (not likely this time of year)

Check the TDS of your tap water and your RO water to see if your membrane is still OK, and like you said, check the ratio of waste water to purified water.

Russ

[rrasco]

You have a new customer :bigsmile:

[BuckeyeHydro]

Got it - Thx!