View Full Version : Plumbing a new tank, seek advice
rrasco
Mon, 21st Nov 2011, 02:13 PM
I am planning a new reef tank, it will be a 6 footer, probably a new 125. I am going through the motions trying to plan the setup and am seeking some advice on the overflow. I may end up buying a new 125, if a setup becomes available when I'm ready to buy, I may buy used, but that's not something I can control so I'm going to play it by ear and plan as if I don't have that option. At any rate, I'm curious what people recommend in regards to how I should setup the overflow. Should I drill and use an overflow like from glass holes, or should I go reef ready? RR is a bit pricier new...but I'm open to drilling or a DIY RR solution. My main concerns are 1) I don't want to drill if I don't have to, 2) most efficient overflow with placement of boxes (1 big overflow or multiple better), and 3) whatever route I go needs to be quiet. I know lots of RR tanks come with dursos and I believe glass holes overflow kits should have a vented elbow, which is supposed to make them quiet. However, I'm tired of trying silencing methods with no success....so it has to work.
rockmp
Mon, 21st Nov 2011, 02:18 PM
For a silent over flow look at the Bean Animal overflow on RC. Also here is his website. http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx
If done right you will not even hear it.
rrasco
Mon, 21st Nov 2011, 02:20 PM
Yes. The Bean method is the only one I have not tried yet, but I am familiar with it. The only requirement would be I would have to make my own overflow to fit all of the plumbing.
rrasco
Mon, 21st Nov 2011, 02:51 PM
Also, while I'm asking....what about return lines? Instead of one return...can I use two pumps, or T off the main return into 2 returns? Or should I go with 1 return and multiple powerheads/water movers.
Kristy
Mon, 21st Nov 2011, 03:12 PM
Hey Rasco,
We T'd off our main return into 2 return lines on Mike's 140g that we just finished. Worked out pretty great. I have been told by a very experienced plumbing guy that it is asking for trouble to do two return pumps.
Also, it sounds like we haven't tried as many kinds of overflows as you have, but having done the Calfo style and then the durso standpipes, I think our Calfo is quieter. We'll see what others say.
rrasco
Mon, 21st Nov 2011, 03:23 PM
I was worried about the two pumps, but the more I thought about it....if 1 pump failed, then the return rate would decrease thus decreasing the required drain rate. Seems safe enough. At least that's how it makes sense in my head, but I can definitely understand why there is hesitation involved with 2 pumps. How many dursos did you do for the 140 and with what pump? The bean method is basically adding standpipes until they handle the flow; maybe you just have enough to not force air down.
I like the idea of a calfo, but if I do that....then how do I hang stuff on the back and run power lines to pumps, etc? I'm thinking of doing like a 3 foot calfo style in the middle. Not quite coast to coast, but with an enlarged skimming area.
alton
Mon, 21st Nov 2011, 07:27 PM
Okay Kristy look at me to do the wrong thing. I run a Panworld 50PXX and a 40PX. Originally I ran the 50PXX 24/7 with the 40PX during the day, but now I run both 24/7. Each has there own side of the tank for return, and both have there own bulk heads and screens into the sump. Main advantage is the 40PX is quiet and the 50PXX is fairly quiet and both together are much quieter than 1 - 100PXX
Kristy
Mon, 21st Nov 2011, 08:23 PM
Hey, doing the wrong thing can be a lot of fun, right? I don't know, the explanation didn't make a lot of sense to me... I was just told that it had potential for problems.
rrasco
Tue, 22nd Nov 2011, 03:16 PM
Where did you get the calfo? Did you build it?
ErikH
Tue, 22nd Nov 2011, 03:46 PM
I use the herbie drain method, and it's silent unless there is a problem. If there's a problem it's insanely noisy, which makes it easy to troubleshoot. Jack (txav8r) or Ace (hobogato) could help with the configuration of a calfo, both of them are acrylic masters.
There's another easy route, check out the maggie mufflers.
Gseclipse02
Tue, 22nd Nov 2011, 04:13 PM
Just remember if u buy it new and drill it u just voided ur warranty. To lots of people that is a huge deal
rrasco
Tue, 22nd Nov 2011, 04:25 PM
I've done plenty of work with acrylic too, would help if I had a table saw or cnc router though. Just curious if there was a place to buy them or if they are all DIY. I like a good acrylic build.
Any success stories to the Maggie Mufflers? I'm going to do some research, but I've tried lots of methods that claim to be silencers. It's always disappointing to try something and it not live up to the expectations.
Sherita
Tue, 22nd Nov 2011, 09:38 PM
rrasco, you can also get a nice cut on acrylic using a circular saw fitted with a laminate blade. Just add for the width of the bed on the saw (normally 1 1/2"), then clamp a straight edge to your work to get a nice straight line. I cut all of my big pieces this way, it's much easier than using my table saw or router table when working with anything that has any size at all to it. Once you get it cut, just clean up the edge if needed using a palm sander or sanding block fitted out with a fine grade sandpaper. I have built all of my sumps, reactors, light holders, fan holders and various other bits and pieces right here at home, without any specialty tools. Just take your time, measure twice and cut once, and be sure to add for the width of the saw bed (edge to blade).
Mike
Tue, 22nd Nov 2011, 10:57 PM
Sending a PM.
rrasco
Wed, 23rd Nov 2011, 10:27 AM
Thanks for the tips Sherita, I always prefer to try and use a fixed blade (i.e., one that isn't controlled by me) but I think I may give that a shot. I already have a circular saw, I just need a good blade for it now. One day I will have a CNC for precision machined pieces.
rrasco
Fri, 25th Nov 2011, 07:42 PM
I was thinking about a calfo that isn't quite coast to coast, but maybe 24-36" in the middle of the tank with a bean overflow. However, I was thinking, if the overflow plumbing is in the middle of a 6' tank, how would I adjust/maintain it if this tank was backed up against the wall? I could just as easily move the overflow to one side, but then how effective would that be...might as well make it coast to coast? To those of you with calfos, how are yours plumbed? I am also curious to see how tanks with a coast to coast run their return if the entire back of the tank is utilized as an overflow.
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