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View Full Version : Replacing Coralife T5 ballast - "DIY"



justahobby
Wed, 20th Apr 2011, 09:58 PM
I thought I would do a little write up on changing the stock ballast in my 30" T5HO Coralife fixture. I bought it newly used a while back. Ran it for less than a month when I put a Target timer on it. Came home that evening to a broken ballast.

While coralife may not have great, long lasting products their customer service (Rob) is outstanding. I called them and they replaced.... the entire fixture. I had a ballast and end caps lying around already wired from my ex-girlfriend's attempt at SW. So I figured WTH:


First I removed the plastic ends on the fixture (each has three screws). Upon removal of the end with the power cord & switch you will find the T5 end caps with blue and red wires. Snip them off leaving as much wire on the end caps as possible.

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Once these wires are clipped you will be able to slide the reflector the other way (away from the power cord) and clip the wires on the other end caps. These are much longer and easier to manage.

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Once that is done you may slide the reflector off completely, which leaves the culprit in plain site (the ballast, duh!). Clip the white and black wires leaving the ballast. Kind of hard to see in this pic...

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Once you are looking at the ballast you will notice two little screws holding it in place. Now here is where I did it the hard way. And this is where you get to benefit :applause: Once the reflector is off, the fixture folds in half and can be separated into two pieces!! Otherwise you are scratching your head, wondering what tiny screwdriver the used to get them in there in the first place :confused::confused::confused:
This is looking at the top of the fixture with the two halves separated:
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Go ahead and remove the screws holding the ballast in place while silently reminding yourself to invite me over for a beer for being the crash dummy.

justahobby
Wed, 20th Apr 2011, 10:02 PM
The Workhorse 5 ballast fits perfectly.... suh weet!

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Replace the screws holding the ballast in place.
Connect the power (B&W wires)
Connect your end cap wires to the ballast (see Workhose wiring diagram)
Slide your reflector in place and snap in the end caps
and if your lucky you get this!

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Mike
Wed, 20th Apr 2011, 10:39 PM
Very cool. You left out the part where I electrocute myself and burn down the house if I tried to do that. :)

justahobby
Wed, 20th Apr 2011, 10:55 PM
LOL I was saving that for my LED build :D

Big_Pun
Thu, 21st Apr 2011, 12:39 AM
very nice! im a big fan of the workhorse ballast, very dependable. as long as you use quality bulbs you should be ok as I believe the workhorse over drives. I purchased some not so good t5 ho bulbs and my fixture(wh ballast) burned up the bulbs in 4 days. so I'm back to my trusty ATI bulbs.

justahobby
Thu, 21st Apr 2011, 01:47 AM
4 days? How many bulbs at what wattage? How did you have the end caps wired? For the way I wired them they are recommended for 48w - 96w. The bulbs in the 30" fixture are 62w total.

Big_Pun
Thu, 21st Apr 2011, 08:50 AM
4 days? How many bulbs at what wattage? How did you have the end caps wired? For the way I wired them they are recommended for 48w - 96w. The bulbs in the 30" fixture are 62w total.

4 bulbs but i noticed the bulbs only say 21w, wired for 48-96w(36inch fixture). ive used ati, KZ, ice cap bulbs with no problem. the bulbs that burned out where SPS bulbs.

justahobby
Thu, 21st Apr 2011, 12:44 PM
Something to be said for buying quality bulbs I guess. I ran this ballast for 4-6 months on (2) 24w ATI and Giesmann bulbs with no problems.

Big_Pun
Thu, 21st Apr 2011, 01:18 PM
Something to be said for buying quality bulbs I guess. I ran this ballast for 4-6 months on (2) 24w ATI and Giesmann bulbs with no problems.

i agree, this next brs order im getting more ATI bulbs