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d3rryc
Tue, 15th Jun 2010, 09:41 PM
I'm trying to set up a calcium reactor, and I'm looking for some advice. I've got a 5-lb CO2 tank hooked up to a solenoid with a needle valve. I'll spend a few minutes dialing the needle valve in to deliver about 20 bubbles per minute. However, when I come back a couple hours later, the bubbles have stopped completely. The last time, I deliberately left it at about 40 bubbles per minute to see if it would slow down to 20. Well, it slowed down to zero again.

Anybody have any ideas/suggestions?

ErikH
Wed, 16th Jun 2010, 09:08 AM
wrap a rubberband around the dial to see if you can make it less prone to changing. Should work pretty good.

aquasport24
Wed, 16th Jun 2010, 10:03 AM
Your CO2 bubble will stop when the reactor chamber PH is reach at a preset point. So it working like it suppose to. 20 bpm is very low, people usually start it at around 30 or more depend on the reactor.What is your effluent drip per minute?

aquasport24
Wed, 16th Jun 2010, 10:09 AM
what is the brand of the reactor?

d3rryc
Wed, 16th Jun 2010, 10:11 AM
You're assuming that I'm using a pH monitor as well, but I'm not - it's just a CO2 valve with a solenoid to turn off the CO2 if the power fails. I'm using a Knop C reactor.

CoryDude
Wed, 16th Jun 2010, 10:25 AM
Is the regulator and solenoid fairly new? I had a new knop reactor hooked up to an older regulator and had the same problems. Once I replaced the regulator, most of the problems disappeared.

I've also had problems w/effluent drip rate and bubble rate when pressure inside the reactor got too high. This was caused at various times when the aragonite compacted.

But, it was the problem you're having and various other issues that finally made me switch to 2 part dosing.

d3rryc
Wed, 16th Jun 2010, 10:29 AM
It IS an older regulator. I'm starting to worry that it might have a bad diaphragm. The irony with your comment is that I'm trying to get away from dosing 2-part!

aquasport24
Wed, 16th Jun 2010, 11:24 AM
How do you know if the reactor is getting the right amount of CO2 or PH for the media to melt? it helps if you have PH controller hook up with it. With 2 parts, you have to keep coming back to adjust to the bioload demand.

d3rryc
Wed, 16th Jun 2010, 11:32 AM
I'm fine with measuring the pH of the effluent manually. It's all academic until I can get a consistent bubble rate from my CO2 tank, though.

aquasport24
Wed, 16th Jun 2010, 11:36 AM
You will need the controller to activate the selonoid to close and open when the PH in th reactor hit it target.

d3rryc
Wed, 16th Jun 2010, 11:48 AM
Aquasport, there is no controller. I'm measuring the pH of the effluent rather than hooking the solenoid up to a controller, per the instructions here (http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index.php/past-issues/2009/october-2009/article/54-calcium-reactors-in-out-and-everything-in-between-part-2) (see "Running Continuously", bullet #11). Please let the thread get back to my issue, which is, why does my CO2 feed stop bubbling? I dial in a certain bubble rate per minute using the needle valve, and that rate drops to zero over time. Erik suggested that I use a rubber band to keep the needle valve knob from moving. I'm hoping others will chime in with some more thoughts.

Bill S
Wed, 16th Jun 2010, 12:30 PM
Aquasport, there is no controller. I'm measuring the pH of the effluent rather than hooking the solenoid up to a controller, per the instructions here (http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index.php/past-issues/2009/october-2009/article/54-calcium-reactors-in-out-and-everything-in-between-part-2) (see "Running Continuously", bullet #11). Please let the thread get back to my issue, which is, why does my CO2 feed stop bubbling? I dial in a certain bubble rate per minute using the needle valve, and that rate drops to zero over time. Erik suggested that I use a rubber band to keep the needle valve knob from moving. I'm hoping others will chime in with some more thoughts.

The rubber band is a good bandaid solution - it keeps the valve from turning once set. However, my experience with these needle valves is that when they get old, they just don't work all that well - especially if they have had any contact with salt water during their life.

I know it's not what you want to hear, but you are playing with fire here. A brand new pH controller/solenoid setup is under $200. Way less than you are likely to lose if your reactor melts down. And you get a brand new needle valve with that.

CoryDude
Wed, 16th Jun 2010, 10:52 PM
d3rryc, I ran my ca reactor w/your method for almost ten years. It's a pain to monitor it, but it does work. I know everyone says you need a ph controller, but I never invested in one either. If you monitor your calcium demand, get your effluent and bubble rates dialed in correctly, then things should be pretty stable. I'd recommend looking for a new regulator/solonoid if the rubber band idea doesn't work. Marine depot had a basic model that was under $100. Best of luck.