HELP!!! ID Needed

[jennabee]

Okay we've been fighting these pesky little looking feather dusters for some time now. I'm asking if anyone can ID them and have any idea on how to remove them. We have tried several things ex. We tried siphon them out, using toothbrush to scrape them off rock, we tried copperband, and last but not least we even tried removing live rock and drying them out. The funny thing is we lost are coraline and they came right back out after a couple of days of returning to water. HELP!!!! They were cute at first but taking over the tank.:at_wits_end:

[hobogato]

they look like hydroids. unfortunately, i think they are very difficult to get rid of.

[aquasport24]

You have to replace the whole rock w/ new rock, and follow with alot of water change and running carbon the same time.

[Texreefer]

Ace is correct. naughty little things.. almost impossible to get rid of

[Gseclipse02]

i think chris said his copper band would eat them ???

[jennabee]

i tell you what, my water is filtered

[justahobby]

I guess its futile to suggest enjoying the bio diversity? :D

Sorry, bad joke.

[justahobby]

Now, I feel like I have to say something witty.


Some types of hydroids can be eradicated from the aquarium by raising the water temperature to 92°F or above for period of 3-5 days (Liisa Coit, pers. com.). Keep all of the filters and equipment operating so that the hot water circulates throughout them and destroys any hydroids or hydromedusae that may be present in the filtration system. (Seahorses and their tankmates, including snails and the cleanup crew, must be removed to a temporary holding tank while the heat treatment is carried out.) Maintaining the water temperature at 92° for this period does not harm the beneficial nitrifying bacteria in your biofilter, injure marine plants or macroalgae, or kill off copepods and other beneficial microfauna (Liisa Coit, pers.com.).



After the treatment period, perform a large water change to assure that the die off of hydroids does not degrade your water quality, and adjust the water temperature back to normal, and all the animals can be returned to the aquarium. The tank will not undergo a "mini cycle" and there will be no ammonia or nitrite spikes (Liisa Coit, pers. com.).



However, not all types of hydroids respond to the heat treatment method of eradication. The snowflake type of hydroids that are all too common seem to have no difficulty surviving the heat treatment. So generally speaking, then Panacur is a more reliable way to eliminate them. Some folks might describe the snowflake type of hydroids as "fuzzy starfish," in which case the heat treatment may not be effective. If you're fuzzy hydroids do not resemble snowflakes, then there is an decent chance that the heat treatment will be effective.
Ok fine, I quoted something witty.

http://forums.saltwaterfish.com/vb/showthread.php?t=334084

[justahobby]

Fenbendazole may work.

http://www.seahorse.com/Frequently_Asked_Questions/Seahorse_Meds/Fenbendazole_%28Panacur%29/

[justahobby]

Nvmd, scratch the last post unless you want to keep that rock in a FOWLR after treatment.

[roscozman]

Would taking the rock out and wash with bleach do any good? I know you already dried the rock but maybe bleaching, then cooking it for a couple of month might help.

We have an extra Brutte trash can you can borrow.