jesserettele
Wed, 27th Jan 2010, 11:00 PM
I am in the process of designing a closed loop system. I have read what I could find on-line and on MAAST. I would like to get some ideas, feedback, personal experiences, problems, solutions, and examples of designs from those who would be so kind as to share.
I have a 75 display that I would like to invest time and energy into the design and blueprint to give myself as much possible success with as little effort as possible in the future. I have another 75 that will be my sump/fuge. I am of course on a budget but am willing to consider any option.
My goal is to have a closed loop system that will prevent me from having to use power heads. I don’t want any dead spots and want as much flow as possible to allow me to have as much flexibility as possible for a mixed reef. I want something quiet, reliable and nothing above the rimless tank that will not have a canopy. Stating the obvious, I do understand that the sump/fuge is completely separate and will have a consistent 500-700 gph all on its own. I probably will have a foam bottom, not sand media, with a foam background.
My plan( let me see if I can draw this with words);
I am planning on purchasing an OM 4 way (when I can afford it, unless there is a better option) to go with the panworld 200ps that I already have. I will have 1 ½” plumbing out of the tank into the CL pump, 1 ½” out to the OM, and then 1” out of the OM to each of the 4 1” bulkheads in the bottom of the tank.
1.The out (output supplying the CL pump) will be in the center towards the bottom in a cave that I am going to build. It will have a 2” X 6” strainer attached to a 1 ½” bulk head going to the CL pump.
2.The cave in the center bottom of the tank will connect to a tunnel along the back and bottom of the tank to each end where it will empty forward back into the main part of the tank.
3.The OM will split into 4 1” inputs that will go to each corner on the bottom of the tank glass and come up through 1” bulk heads.
4.The back 2 will be split into 2 more 1” input lines after the 1” bulkheads, one having an immediate forward facing ¾” lockline spray nozzle to move water out of the tunnel along the back of the tank forward into the main part of the tank, and the other running up the back corners and terminating half way up the tank with another ¾” lockline facing forward/middle.
5.The front two inputs from the OM will be split into 2 more 1” input lines after the 1” bulkheads, one having an immediate rear/middle/up facing ¾” lockline from the corners of the floor of the tank, the other 1” lines running in the front on the floor towards the center and terminating with ¾” locklines facing towards the back/up.
I intend to aim all lockline nozzles to hit the corals and live rock. There will be a total of 8 ¾” locklines from 4 each 1” input lines all coming from the OM that supplies one input line with water pressure at a time. So essentially the 1750 gph will be split into 2 nozzles at any given time in the tank but from one corner of the tank at a time.
Why closed loop (my opinions)?
1.I don’t like to look of power heads.
2.I do like the options of plumbing and aiming flow in any direction that I choose, specifically at any live rock or coral.
3.Ability to have a controller or diverter valve to create sporadic water movements, fine tuned control with different flow pattern drums, side to side, or one corner at a time.
4.I am not scared to drill glass and all 5 pieces of glass of my 75 are not tempered.
5.I have a 1750 gph external pump and 6 1” sch 80 bulk heads, so the cost would a little lower than power heads.
6.No wires in the tank, no heat from the motors (I know that vortechs don’t apply and any external pump will also add some heat).
7.Nothing to be caught up in and ground up in like a power head.
8.Not as severe algae growth slowing gph like power heads.
Options that I have read about and am considering so far (which one is worth it);
1.Oceans motions 4 way (magnetic drive) $400.00 for 1
2.Two SCWD 1” (not tuneable/adjustable and will always have the 1750 gph divided by 2 at each spray nozzle) $200.00 for 2.
3. Oceans Motions Revolutions ( would have to be at the rear top of the tank facing forward, wouldn’t like the look) $150 for 4.
4. Sea Swirl (would have to be at the rear top of the tank facing forward, wouldn’t like the look) $470 for 2.
5.Straight plumbed (really cuts down the flow of the 1750 gph by how ever many spray nozzles, and no way to simulate alternating current).
6.Make my own electrically driven diverter valve from parts that I have found and hope it works (we all know why it’s not the best idea to do this) $100.00.
I borrowed and attached some sample pics of inspiration CL plumbing that I found on another site.
I have a 75 display that I would like to invest time and energy into the design and blueprint to give myself as much possible success with as little effort as possible in the future. I have another 75 that will be my sump/fuge. I am of course on a budget but am willing to consider any option.
My goal is to have a closed loop system that will prevent me from having to use power heads. I don’t want any dead spots and want as much flow as possible to allow me to have as much flexibility as possible for a mixed reef. I want something quiet, reliable and nothing above the rimless tank that will not have a canopy. Stating the obvious, I do understand that the sump/fuge is completely separate and will have a consistent 500-700 gph all on its own. I probably will have a foam bottom, not sand media, with a foam background.
My plan( let me see if I can draw this with words);
I am planning on purchasing an OM 4 way (when I can afford it, unless there is a better option) to go with the panworld 200ps that I already have. I will have 1 ½” plumbing out of the tank into the CL pump, 1 ½” out to the OM, and then 1” out of the OM to each of the 4 1” bulkheads in the bottom of the tank.
1.The out (output supplying the CL pump) will be in the center towards the bottom in a cave that I am going to build. It will have a 2” X 6” strainer attached to a 1 ½” bulk head going to the CL pump.
2.The cave in the center bottom of the tank will connect to a tunnel along the back and bottom of the tank to each end where it will empty forward back into the main part of the tank.
3.The OM will split into 4 1” inputs that will go to each corner on the bottom of the tank glass and come up through 1” bulk heads.
4.The back 2 will be split into 2 more 1” input lines after the 1” bulkheads, one having an immediate forward facing ¾” lockline spray nozzle to move water out of the tunnel along the back of the tank forward into the main part of the tank, and the other running up the back corners and terminating half way up the tank with another ¾” lockline facing forward/middle.
5.The front two inputs from the OM will be split into 2 more 1” input lines after the 1” bulkheads, one having an immediate rear/middle/up facing ¾” lockline from the corners of the floor of the tank, the other 1” lines running in the front on the floor towards the center and terminating with ¾” locklines facing towards the back/up.
I intend to aim all lockline nozzles to hit the corals and live rock. There will be a total of 8 ¾” locklines from 4 each 1” input lines all coming from the OM that supplies one input line with water pressure at a time. So essentially the 1750 gph will be split into 2 nozzles at any given time in the tank but from one corner of the tank at a time.
Why closed loop (my opinions)?
1.I don’t like to look of power heads.
2.I do like the options of plumbing and aiming flow in any direction that I choose, specifically at any live rock or coral.
3.Ability to have a controller or diverter valve to create sporadic water movements, fine tuned control with different flow pattern drums, side to side, or one corner at a time.
4.I am not scared to drill glass and all 5 pieces of glass of my 75 are not tempered.
5.I have a 1750 gph external pump and 6 1” sch 80 bulk heads, so the cost would a little lower than power heads.
6.No wires in the tank, no heat from the motors (I know that vortechs don’t apply and any external pump will also add some heat).
7.Nothing to be caught up in and ground up in like a power head.
8.Not as severe algae growth slowing gph like power heads.
Options that I have read about and am considering so far (which one is worth it);
1.Oceans motions 4 way (magnetic drive) $400.00 for 1
2.Two SCWD 1” (not tuneable/adjustable and will always have the 1750 gph divided by 2 at each spray nozzle) $200.00 for 2.
3. Oceans Motions Revolutions ( would have to be at the rear top of the tank facing forward, wouldn’t like the look) $150 for 4.
4. Sea Swirl (would have to be at the rear top of the tank facing forward, wouldn’t like the look) $470 for 2.
5.Straight plumbed (really cuts down the flow of the 1750 gph by how ever many spray nozzles, and no way to simulate alternating current).
6.Make my own electrically driven diverter valve from parts that I have found and hope it works (we all know why it’s not the best idea to do this) $100.00.
I borrowed and attached some sample pics of inspiration CL plumbing that I found on another site.