View Full Version : how to build an acrylic media reactor
hobogato
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 09:40 AM
Materials:
acrylic tube 4" outer diameter
1/4" acrylic - color doesnt matter, but clear seems to be easiest to glue
two 1/2" pvc couplings slipxslip
two 1/2" pvc 90deg elbows slipxfmthr
some 1/2" pvc pipe
weldon #3(or 4) and #16(or other acrylic solvent)
five nylon thumbscrew 1/4" coarse thread
Tools(for this project i used as few tools possible):
table saw with finishing blade
board with sandpaper glued to it (or a belt sander)
router table with 1/4" cutting bit and a laminating bit
drill and drill bits
tap 1/4" coarse thread
pvc cement
First, cut the tube (4" OD) to the desired length (this one is 13”) with a table saw. If the cut is not perfect, use a sanding board or belt sander to get rid of inconsistencies in the edge
Also, cut three 8” circles and two circles that are the same radius as the inside of the tube out of ¼” acrylic. I used black for the large ones and clear for the small, but it really doesn’t matter. I cut all of these pieces on the table saw, but if you really want them perfect, rough cut them on the table saw and then cut each one to the exact circle on the router. once you have one cut for each size, use double sided tape to stick it to each of the others of that size and cut them to the exact same shape using the laminating bit. you can also use a 1/8" roundoff bit to make the top edge of the top and bottom and the bottom edge of the flange even nicer.
Here is a pic of those pieces along with my two circle templates (far left)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3848.jpg
Next, you will trace out some things on the circles.
One of the three large circles stays as is because it will be the bottom, so just set it aside. One of them will become the flange that is attached to the top of the tube, so trace one of the small circles into the middle of that large circle. The other will be the top, so it will need to accommodate the plumbing.
Again trace one of the small circles in the center, but use a dotted line to remind you that you are not cutting out that circle – it is just a place marker.
Then, mark a circle the size of the outside of ½” pvc pipe (I just use a short piece of pipe and trace) in the center of the dotted smaller circle.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3850.jpg
Trace another one of those half way between the center one and the dotted line.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3851.jpg
All traced out, the two large circles should look like this
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3849.jpg
Next, trace the center hole for each of the inside baffle circles. The best way to do this is to put them on top of the top piece that you already traced out.
Line them up with the dotted circumference line and line up the piece of pipe with the small circle in the center and trace
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3852.jpg
Repeat for the second one (if you are doing two)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3853.jpg
Be sure to make where the second hole lines up so you can notch the edge of the small circles there. Then, if you are a little off center on the center hole, it won’t matter – you just have to be sure to line up the notch with the outgoing plumbing and it will fit fine.
part two coming in a few minutes
hobogato
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 10:09 AM
Here are all of the pieces after cutting. note - the cutout on the top is 1/4" inside of the drawn circle (i should have flipped that piece over before taking the pic so you could see that) - DO NOT cut all the way to the line, you will trim it later. note#2 - cut the holes for the 1/2" pvc pipe barely large enough for the pipe to fit.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3854.jpg
Also, you will need to cut some small pieces of ¼” acrylic out of the scraps. These are 1” long and ½” wide.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3856.jpg
First, you will need to attach the small spacers in the bottom of the tube – the lower baffle will sit on these when it is all assembled
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3857.jpg
Then, attach the flange to the other end of the tube. I use a cinder block to keep pressure on the pieces while the seam cures.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3855.jpg
Flip the tube over and attach the bottom – same method as above, so no pic
After the flange seam has cured, trim the inside edge down flush with the inside of the tube using the laminating bit
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3858.jpg
Drill 5 evenly spaced holes in the top. I just pick a bit that is a little larger than the threaded part the nylon screws but not bigger than the head of the screws. Now, line up the top with the flange (i notched them when cutting the small circles so they would always be easy to line up). Mark all five holes on the flange and after removing the top, drill them with a 7/32” bit.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3859.jpg
Next, thread the holes in the flange using the tap. here is what it looks like assembled
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3860.jpg
Now, cut one of the ½” pvc couplers in half (watch your fingers!) and cut two short pieces of ½” pvc pipe (just long enough to go thru the ¼” acrylic top and into the elbow above it and the coupling below it.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3861.jpg
Part three coming this evening.
jesserettele
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 02:57 PM
This is great stuff, thanks!
Are you using cell cast or extruded? Where to do you purchase it form? Locally?
Paul28
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 03:09 PM
Man this is great thx ace !!!!
hobogato
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 03:25 PM
jesse, i am using extruded - got it at allied plastic supply
they and regal only sell the tube in 6' pieces, not smaller. san antonio plastics on josephine street will sell smaller pieces of tube, but it is usually much more expensiver per unit length than buying the whole tube from allied or regal.
Mr Cob
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 04:42 PM
Vote to Sticky this along with any other dedicated DIY threads you have posted like this.
jesserettele
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 04:44 PM
Thanks for the info Ace!
Do you have a preference (brand) of laminating and cutting bits for your router? Do you use a straight or spiral laminating bit?
You used a table saw for the outside cuts of the circles?... Wow.
Can we find the nylon thumb screws at a local HD or Lowes?
jesserettele
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 04:46 PM
Vote to Sticky this along with any other dedicated DIY threads you have posted like this.
If allowed as a web member, I second the motion to sticky this as well as any other DIY threads from Ace.
hobogato
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 04:53 PM
i just use the normal woodworking router bits - they wear out a little faster than spiral bits, but they are less than half the cost.
table saw circles - lots of practice, but cut the square, then cut the corners off to make an octogon, then shave the curve. not for the faint of heart - every shop teacher's nightmare :lauging:
i got the thumscrews from pete rafferty - one time maast pres who used to do acrylic. got a lot of materials from him when he stopped building. i dont know if they carry em at any local places, but you can order online - i would have to look for the link (got a bag of 1000 from pete, so i havent had to buy any in for a long time)
txav8r
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 05:07 PM
If youy are not careful cutting circles on the tablesaw you will need nylon thumbs!
fs40reef
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 05:11 PM
Both Home Depot and Lowes carry the nylon bolts. FYI.
Will
corkyGramma
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 06:07 PM
Jigsaws are a pain in the a**, so would a band saw been a better tool to cut that?
hobogato
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 06:12 PM
no kidding jack - those little acrylic triangles hurt pretty bad when the kick back and hit ya as well.
thanks will
ok, part three
Using a 1/8" (or so) size bit, drill a bunch of holes in the two baffle circles (i have to admit, although a drill will work, i used a drill press because it is much easier)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3862.jpg
To glue the pvc to the lid, start by gluing the two pieces of pipe into the coupling and half coupling
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3865.jpg
now, apply a ring of weldon #16 around the rim of the center hole on the inside of the lid
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3866.jpg
put the pipe glued into the whole coupling thru the hole and apply weldon #16 around it on the top of the lid
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3867.jpg
put pvc glue on the pipe and in the slip side of one of the elbows and press it on - make sure it presses completely against the acrylic on both sides.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3868.jpg
Now repeat this process for the other pipe in the half coupling - take care that the elbows dont pass directly over the screw holes. you should have a little while to turn them a bit, but i would mess with them too much.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3869.jpg
Note: weldon #16 does not cause a bond between pvc and acrylic. the combination of the weldon #16 and the pvc cement applied at the same time bonds them pretty well, but also the fittings hold the piece in the acrylic hole. the tighter the fit thru the acrylic the less likely it will leak. i have built many projects using this method, including calcium reactors that are under pressure and have never had a problem. If you don't trust this method, you can get some weldon #40 to glue the pvc parts to the acrylic as it actually bonds them by itself.
Use the other half coupling to make a stop on the bottom of the inside pipe. first, glue it to the end
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3863.jpg
Then, cut off the end so the retaining ring is about 1/8" thick
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3870.jpg
now, measure the length of pvc you will need on the center pipe by setting it up like this (do not glue the pipe into the bottom of the coupling. You want the pipe to go below the top of the acrylic spacers in the top but not extend all the way to the bottom - DO NOT CUT at the line you draw, you are just marking it to get the length you will need
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3871.jpg
now measure from the end of the pipe without the retaining ring to your mark. that is how long the inside pipe needs to be. measure that distance from the end of the retaining ring and cut.
the only step i left out was making a gasket (because i forgot to get some foam today). simply buy a foam sheet from a craft store or a sheet of gasket material from a hardware/auto parts store and cut it in the exact shape of the top of the flange.
here is what it looks like when it is finished
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/projects/PDRM3874.jpg
hobogato
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 06:14 PM
if you dont want to cut the three large circles, you can also do it with squares like this
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/cuttle%20lagoon/DSC05659.jpg
hobogato
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 06:16 PM
a jig saw and band saw (and scroll saw as well) are poor choices for cutting acrylic because the acrylic tends to heat up when it is cut with them and melt back together as fast as you cut it.
Jigsaws are a pain in the a**, so would a band saw been a better tool to cut that?
jesserettele
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 06:19 PM
This was so fast I can't believe a finished reactor DIY build in one afternoon. I haven't got anything accomplished at work today checking back for all the updates ;)!
Thanks again Ace.
I imagine it wouldn't be difficult to modify your reactor to accomidate CO2 for media that require it.
hobogato
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 06:24 PM
i would have finished it yesterday if my pvc glue hadnt been one big glob in the can :lauging:
you could add an air connection. heck, you could probably figure out a way to mod it into a calcium reactor if you really thought about it :wink_smile:
This was so fast I can't believe a finished reactor DIY build in one afternoon. I haven't got anything accomplished at work today checking back for all the updates ;)!
Thanks again Ace.
I imagine it wouldn't be difficult to modify your reactor to accomidate CO2 for media that require it.
corkyGramma
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 08:36 PM
Thanks for breaking it down for us. One question, why did you use two baffle circles if they are used together?
hobogato
Wed, 13th Jan 2010, 08:42 PM
one goes under the media and one slides up the pipe to fit above the media. they just sit together when it is not in use.
corruption
Thu, 14th Jan 2010, 04:16 AM
Fantastic guide Ace -- thanks for this! Very clear, succinct... I think a blind man could follow it :D
-Justin
corkyGramma
Thu, 14th Jan 2010, 09:48 AM
Last time I saw this, didnt you have something else connected to your dry loop. I remember the ext. pump, the media reactor, and ???? I was :what_smile: @ no skimmer.
brewercm
Thu, 14th Jan 2010, 09:57 AM
Good stuff Ace but my way is much easier.
1. Call Ace let him know what you are wanting.
2. Drink beer and let Ace get it done. (If you really want to get the full experience, bring beer to Ace and visit while enjoy watching him work away. Kind of like dinner theatre).
3. Pick up from Ace and pay the guy for great work.
See much easier process my way and much less likely of a visit to the ER.:bigsmile:
corkyGramma
Thu, 14th Jan 2010, 10:11 AM
I would do the same but I'd hate to burden him with my projects. On the other hand, there is no sense in reinventing the wheel, the man has it down forwards and back.:bigsmile:
RayAllen
Thu, 14th Jan 2010, 10:19 AM
I own one of Ace's reactors. Simple and works great.
hobogato
Thu, 14th Jan 2010, 10:23 AM
are you talking about the old tank (240 gallon) or the tank pictured in the previous page?
Last time I saw this, didnt you have something else connected to your dry loop. I remember the ext. pump, the media reactor, and ???? I was :what_smile: @ no skimmer.
cliff & corky - i appreciate the sentiment, but (insert rob schneider voice from the waterboy) you can do it!
GoneReefing
Thu, 14th Jan 2010, 12:14 PM
This is great stuff. I now have another future project. Thanks for the guide and I vote that this definitely needs to be stickied.
purplesprite
Thu, 14th Jan 2010, 12:32 PM
I agree we need more of these diy demos. Good stuff Ace thanks!
corruption
Thu, 14th Jan 2010, 12:36 PM
If I may make a request for your next guide... those sweet T5 fixtures you made :) Those would be a great boon to the many of us trying our hands at LED work :D
-Justin
d3rryc
Mon, 18th Jan 2010, 03:51 PM
Now if he can just show us how to machine the aluminum for the CO2 cannister and build the solenoid... ; )
Great stuff, Ace.
txmike
Wed, 11th Aug 2010, 08:17 PM
btt
allan
Thu, 12th Aug 2010, 04:56 AM
Yeah this should be stickied or moved to the reference section where we have rob's foam work.
Thanks for locating this mike.
txav8r
Thu, 12th Aug 2010, 10:43 AM
Yeah this should be stickied or moved to the reference section where we have rob's foam work.
Thanks for locating this mike.
Done
Kenya
Thu, 11th Nov 2010, 09:37 PM
Got to love MAASTeers definitely going to make one soon as a phosphate reactor
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