Slowly Losing Sps

[Gilbert]

I have been slowing losing my sps colony/frags. The death starts off slow with a piece of the coral turning white then by the next day the coral is dead and completely white.

Starting a month ago
I had 4 birdsnest colonies
A big colony on the top right side of my tank started first. A patch of the coral had no polpy extention, then that area turn white. it slowly spread until the whole coral was white. Took about 3 days.
After that colonies death it spread to another piece in the bottom right of my tank, then the top left, followed by the bottom left. All within 4 days of the first colonyies death.

After about 4 days of no death i notice the yellow arco colony i had started off with the same white patch that the BN colony so i fragged it. Within 3 days it died and most of the frags. The coral let off alot of slime as it did when i first got it so i paid no attention to the superman monti polpy recession.

2 days later the superman monti is dead.
And a piece of the yellow arco had fallin on to my green monti which turn that area white (as usual when 2 corals touch) but it slowly keep spreading tell it killed the colony and now green monti colonies in different areas of the tank are also dying.

And thats where i am today.
Any advice?
As soon as i get out of work im going to test my water.

[Gilbert]

I have already checked for red bugs, and flatworms, none
I haven't added any new livestock to the tank for about 3-4 months.
I did a water change on friday, 6 gallons.
I added a heater about a week ago.

[Mr Cob]

I'm having a similar problem with my SPS. I think mine is related to too many water changes because I sold off a bunch of corals and my flow and water volume just changed because my sump is no longer in line.

Good luck.

Does the white start at the base and work it's way up and out? Sounds like tissue rot.

[ErikH]

Do you have a light that runs opposite your daylight cycle? How much and what are you dosing? What is your fish list? What are your CA and Alk at daily?

[Gilbert]

In the yellow arco and birdsnest it did start at the bottom. But i forgot to add that i also lost a colony of tri colored arco that started dying from the top.

[Gilbert]

Fish list
3'' yellow tang
3'' blue tang
cleaner wrasse
2 clowns

Lights
Mhs 7am-3pm
Actinics 12pm-7pm

Im testing today

[ErikH]

If you do not have a light that runs at night, that is probably your problem. You are having a swing PH/Alk. Fuge lights keep this to a minimum.

[Gilbert]

does it have to be a MH or can it just be any regular bulb?

[Mr Cob]

does it have to be a MH or can it just be any regular bulb?

Any type of light that will keep your macro algae growing.

[recoiljpr]

does it have to be a MH or can it just be any regular bulb?

I have Compact Florescent lights (5400K with built in reflector) from Lowes on my fuge and its working great. Spent 6 bucks on a clip work lights from there, and then like 8 bucks on the CF bulb. Just take off the aluminum reflector that comes with the lights and you are ready to go.

[Gilbert]

ok ill see if it helps.
thanks for the help.

[ACE]

I had this happen to me when I had the 75, it turns out my (Coralife) thermometer was displaying the wrong temp. Instead of 78 as the high temp in my tank before the lights went out it was actually 83-84.

[hobogato]

also, how are you testing salinity? if you are using a swing arm, they can be drastically wrong. if you are using a refractometer, maybe you need to calibrate it?

[Gilbert]

i am using a swing arm... but today im going to drop in a floating thermometer that also checks salinity

[Bill S]

also, how are you testing salinity? if you are using a swing arm, they can be drastically wrong. if you are using a refractometer, maybe you need to calibrate it?

Beat me to it, Ace. I'm almost willing to bet that this is the problem. The dang swing arms should be outlawed.

In any case, a complete workup of your parms is in order. I'd also have them checked at a LFS - test kits are notorious for being off.

[CoryDude]

Swing a cup of your water over to Gabe's. He can test with his refractometer.

[TexasTodd]

There's a ton of issues that could do this.

Generally top down recession is Alk and bottom up is Phosphate unless it's bugs...which you've already check for.

Next would be temp and then flow then light.

What is your ph day/night? What is your dkh and ca? How many times is your tank turning over per hour?

What is the TDS on your RO/DI water?

Frags are one thing, they die easily and sometimes for no reason, but if you have estabilished colonies going you've got a problem.

Todd

[Crazyeyes]

Maybe you should place them in places where they get full polyp extension, it could be where your placing them. Like what people are saying, it could be so many things. My hydrometer that checks salinty and temp is off compared to my refractometer, this I think is where you bite the bullet and get a refractometer your salinity will be the most precise and it will help out the corals.

[TexasTodd]

As long as your salinity is 1.022 or so or higher and steady it shouldn't be causing issues. By mistake in the past I've run up close to 1.30 with no ill effects.

Pollution and temp are the most likely.

Todd

[Gilbert]

ok so i think the problem was the temp. yesturday when i got home i checked it and it was at 86 degree, that dam heater was suppose to keep it at 76.

[ACE]

ok so i think the problem was the temp. yesturday when i got home i checked it and it was at 86 degree, that dam heater was suppose to keep it at 76.

I had to learn that lesson the hard way as well. Glad you found out what happened.