View Full Version : ICK? Newbie needs help
Armywife
Tue, 17th Feb 2009, 08:53 AM
I am very new to saltwater and recently purchased a complete tank and was fortunate to move every inch of water with it! I have a friend helping. With the tank cycled and water tests performed everything was good. We went out and purchased 4 fish, 2 baby clowns one sailfin tang and one lawnmower blenny. within 24 hours we lost a clown and was told he was too small and could not withstand the move (ok then why did you sell it???) purchased a bigger one. Yesterday we returned the dead baby and got a bigger one. the first fish were purchased on sat Sunday my husband said the sailfin looked like it had glitter on it I didn't see what he was talking about and this morning I get up to see my sailfin completely covered with what I would guess to be ick and my other baby clown has a couple spots too. I have read a couple of things to do but no stores are open yet! I know now I should have set up a quarentine tank but dummy me I didn't think the store would sell sick fish.
I just went in there and fed them to see if they would eat and the sailfin ate most of the shrimp I put in there so no appitite problem. It looks so pittiful and I feel bad cause Im helpless!
I have an idea for a temp quarentine I been reading articals that says hyposalienity will help and also heat kills the parasite what if I take some tank water and heat it up say 100* bring the temp back down to 78 I think is what mine is at but using some distilled water to do that bringing the saltlenity down to the level of 16 ppt. Seems risky since Im so new but I don't want to have total loss!
Any suggestions would be greatly appricated
Thanks
jrsatx20
Tue, 17th Feb 2009, 09:59 AM
I'm on my cell phone so limited on the ability to copy/paste. Look for a thread about marine ich it was just posted a couple days ago. Good info on the problem.
corkyGramma
Tue, 17th Feb 2009, 10:22 AM
ArmyWife how long was the tank set up before the move? Tangs need a more established tank, something like months old where the water is very stable. They are very prone to ick. I've wiped out ick before by adding a cleaner shrimp and after the ick is gone, he will continue to clean your fish of any dead tissue- very cool to watch. Make sure your tang gets its seaweed and you can add garlic to the shrimp you feed to help fight off the parasites. Just be careful you don't over feed, you don't want to compromise your water quality.
That advice I've tried and suceeded at.
Bill S
Tue, 17th Feb 2009, 10:35 AM
OK, so you went to the "Emergency" section, and blew right by the two sticky posts? Here's the one on Marine Ich:
http://www.maast.org/forums/showthread.php?t=49040
corkyGramma
Tue, 17th Feb 2009, 10:50 AM
Yeah, I've read it. Try to get aquarists to agree an anything :) good luck. The article says to use a quarantine tank... thats going to cause major stress. These days you can just buy a UV sterilizer and kill all the pathogens in the water.
Bill S
Tue, 17th Feb 2009, 11:00 AM
These days you can just buy a UV sterilizer and kill all the pathogens in the water.
Right...
subsailor
Tue, 17th Feb 2009, 11:18 AM
Yeah, I've read it. Try to get aquarists to agree an anything :) good luck. The article says to use a quarantine tank... thats going to cause major stress. These days you can just buy a UV sterilizer and kill all the pathogens in the water.
The following was copied from Wet Web Media.
Why won't my UV kill Ich?
My entire tank (except for two, maroon clown and wrasse) has ich. I've started using formalin and fresh water dips last night. I've turned the skimmer off but have left the UV sterilizer running. . . is this the right thing to do?
<excellent and just short of perfect without moving everyone into a bare bottomed QT tank>
I've considered using Greenex or copper along with the formalin -- do you recommend this?
<rather hostile.. only if necessary. The formalin should be enough>
If caught early enough (they are still acting fine, eating good) is ich curable?
<yes... very much so. Can be cured without medication actually with fish in a bare bottom QT tank and faithful daily water changes from the bottom for 8 consecutive days to siphon out tomites of parasite and break its life cycle>
Should I still feed them every day, including vitamins?
<very important!>
I don't understand how I can still get ich -- that's what I bought this UV sterilizer for. . .can you provide an opinion?
<UV sterilizers do a terrible job of preventing Ich. You money would have been much better spent (and less of it) on a hospital tank that all new fish go through first. These quarantine tanks (QT) prevent Ich from entering your display through faithful screening and treatment. ***The problem with a UV sterilizer for controlling pathogens is that they have a narrow range that they will work in. The UV lamp must be less than 6 months old, the water MUST be prefiltered of all particulate matter (sediment free), the tank water MUST be crystal clear (heavy frequent use of carbon else discolorants reduce efficacy of UV light), the UV chamber must be frequently cleaned of sediment and organic slime buildup inside or light is blocked (just look at how much slime builds on power filter tuber in one month), the water flow must be rather slow as per mfg rating for kill time and the bulb must be sufficiently intense to handle the rate of turnover for the tank. And even after all of those things have been satisfied, it can only denature the parasites that are run through it... some may travel through the water and attach to fish without ever traveling through the UV! For disease control Ozone is easier, much more effective but easier to abuse. My vote is always for a QT tank for all new and sick fish>
Is the sterilizer helping at all?
<I doubt it if you weren't advised of the above and stay on top of it>
Also, my water quality is excellent, I haven't added any new fish in two months, and there have been no changes (new rock added, etc.) to the tank. . . what caused this ich???
<temperature changes are the most common reason (drops or fluctuations between night and day). Very common in spring and fall seasons when house temps fluctuate with seasonal swings and doors and windows opening and closing>
Thanks for your help. . .I'm trying not to get too frustrated but this hobby is TOUGH sometimes!!! :)
<your just not drinking enough <wink>. Anthony>
Mr Cob
Tue, 17th Feb 2009, 01:34 PM
ArmyWife how long was the tank set up before the move? Tangs need a more established tank, something like months old where the water is very stable. They are very prone to ick. I've wiped out ick before by adding a cleaner shrimp and after the ick is gone, he will continue to clean your fish of any dead tissue- very cool to watch. Make sure your tang gets its seaweed and you can add garlic to the shrimp you feed to help fight off the parasites. Just be careful you don't over feed, you don't want to compromise your water quality.
That advice I've tried and suceeded at.
Corky, you should read the sticky that Christina posted in this forum...Bill posted the link above. It might help. It helped me understand what was really happening in regards to ich. While your suggestions could help the overall health of the fish they are not actually cures to ich.
Armywife
Wed, 18th Feb 2009, 01:16 AM
Wow so many diffrent oppinions I did read both articals after I wrote the post at the time I wrote it I was in a panic and was grasping at straws... I went to a local pet store and purchased an organtic ick treatment. The fish seem to be doing well I have desided unfortunatly a very hard lesson. If I can pull it out of my bum then yeahhh for me but for now I have done the best I can do and hope for the best. The tank I purchased was 6-9 months old had healthy fish in it when I purchased it. I think it was from the tang but I like everyone else can only suspect where it came from. I am purchasing a quarintine tank tomorrow and will start the cycle on it and all new fish will be spending time in quarintine until deamed safe. I thank all of you for your comments.
Thanks
Armywife
Bill S
Wed, 18th Feb 2009, 10:23 AM
Just my $0.02. At this point, you have it. Feed them well (small amounts, several times a day), keep the stress level as low as possible, keep the water quality as high as you can, and they should beat it.
Not sure what "organic" product you bought - but if they really worked, everyone would be using it. And basically no one does.
Also remember - the person at the LFS may know less than you do. It is an unreliable source. A few years back, I took bad advice on a coral from a worker, who knew better. He was just interested in selling the coral. There ARE some good ones, but also some not-so-good ones.
mozartkt
Mon, 23rd Feb 2009, 02:11 PM
I agree, stress levels low, water quality high is your best bet at this stage
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