heat problems

[jc]

I recently upgraded my t-5 ballasts to icecap 660. I can barely see an improvement in the amount of light output, but I definitely know they are being over driven because of the increase in temp. I went from 79 to 82 degrees. When I upgraded I added some new fans that push 110 cfm to the edge of the bulbs. I also left my old fans at the back of my canopy. What kind of modifications can I make to lower the temps? The canopy has a border in the back that I think creates a pocket where hot air is trapped. I was thinking about drilling a few holes in the canopy with a hole saw. Maybe a 2" hole every foot. As you can see the fans in the back don't blow against the water. They were added to bring fresh air into the canopy. Would it be best to point them down towards the water? Where is the best place to mount them? I am going to replacing the clear fans because they only push 41 cfm.
http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll412/jc1of2/Picture017.jpg

[topsoil]

I had a similar problem on my canopy when I went with VHO lighting. I focused on pushing the heat away from the bulbs. I ended up with 2 fans pushing air lengthwise down the tubes (right to left across the tank), and then cut 2 holes in the top left of the canopy, so the hot air could rise out. It worked for me, but it looks like you have more bulbs than I do. I only have 4. I never tried blowing cooler air across the water surface to cool the temp. I'm not sure what cfm I'm pushing, they were some extra computer fans I had picked up from Altex.

[JimD]

Moving air accross the bulbs to try and cool the tank will lower the operating temperature of the bulbs and possibly change the color spectrum, (K value) and could dramaticly change the overall appearance of the tank. Just a little diddy to consider. The most efficiant way to cool is through evaporation.

[topsoil]

I had heard that about metal halides. Is that true for fluorescents also? I had always thought the color on a fluorescent tube had more to do with the mercury/phosphorous interaction and the other elements that are coated on the inside of the tube. I can see the argument though.

Maybe if you can direct the air flow closer to the water and create sort of an air 'curtain', it can keep the higher temps at the bulb, but move the heat away from the water and maybe evaporate a little of the water at the same time.

[jc]

Great suggestions. As for the color change, I read up on it at reefcentral and could not find a definitive answer for t5 bulbs.

[alton]

T5HO Lamps have to run in a warmer climate but not a hot one.

[TinyTanker]

you have to orchestrate the air flow in a consistent direction dont have fans pushing against one another. The greatest way is to have a single direction across the lights from one side to another. Intermediate fans in the middle pushing in the same direction can assist.

[fjr_wertheimber]

One thing you need to bear in mind is that IceCap specifically states that when you overdrive bulbs with the 660 you need to have fans pushing air over the endcaps and ends of the bulbs to cool them so they don't get too hot.

[jc]

The black fans on the end are there to force the air across the bulbs per instructions.

[jc]

I added one more fan to the end of the lights. I also put two holes on the top of the hood. One fan is blowing directly down. The other was going to blow up to push the hot air out. The problem is the wires don't reach to the other fan. Should I cut it and add a length of wire or look for some kind of extension? I'm also thinking I should point the second one down. The temp dropped to 79-80.

[jrodriguez]

from what i see i bet its very beautiful. can only imagine :thumbs_up: