Euro-Reef noise level, experience needed...

[labrown]

I have had a EuroReef RS-80 for a while now, and it tends to put out a lot of flow noise, mainly because the return water valve has to be above the water level in the sump to operate the skimmer. Has anyone found a way to alleviate the noise of water free-flowing into another body of water? I don't think the skimmer will operate correctly if the return pipe is submerged. Does anyone think it would be possible to slow the return, or obstruct it in some way for this purpose?

[ErikH]

"mainly because the return water valve has to be above the water level in the sump to operate the skimmer. "

????? Mine is submerged and works fine.

[ErikH]

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x315/erikharrison/Fish/Cuttle%20Tank/DSC_0274.jpg'


I don't have a bioload yet, so no real skimmate. When I first put everything in it went bananas.

[labrown]

Hmm, when I put it together the manual stated that I needed to keep that above water level, but it surely isn't it that picture. Maybe I will look again, I know I have that manual here somewhere...

Euro-Reef installation & set up instructions:

3. Be sure to trim or adjust the position of the outlet pipe so that the bottom where the water exits is above the water level. If it is below the water, it will cause the skimmer to surge and make a gurgling sound in the vent pipe. It will also make the skimmer difficult to adjust.

It was underlined in the book. I thought it might be important.

How does it affect the performance of your skimmer?

[tcinaustin]

I had my return water outlet submerged on my Rs-250 and had the problems with it surging (and overflowing) and gurgling. I did not want to cut the outlet pipe and deal with the water noise so after much experimentation, I ended up drilling 8 - 1/8" holes (4 around the pipe on 2 different levels) in the outlet pipe above the water level to alliviate the back flow which caused the problems. It works like a charm with no water noise.

[ErikH]

How old is the model you are using?

[labrown]

How old is the model you are using?

It is less than a year old. The holes above the water line make sense. I don't know if I am ready to start drilling in my skimmer, but it might be worth a shot.

[tcinaustin]

The holes are drilled in the pipe you cut above the water level below the down elbow. You would have to replace the pipe so it would release the water underwater, then drill the holes in the new pipe above the water line. Make sense?

[ErikH]

sink it first and check the bubble production. If all is well then I would let it ride. That may be a manual for an older model before they had an open elbow "durso-ish" design. Other than that IDK, mine is silent.

[labrown]

The holes are drilled in the pipe you cut above the water level below the down elbow. You would have to replace the pipe so it would release the water underwater, then drill the holes in the new pipe above the water line. Make sense?

yes it does make sense. I haven't had that extra pipe attached, I just let it come out the elbow because the skimmer is submerged pretty far into my sump. But I may try this with the extra piece I haven't been using.



sink it first and check the bubble production. If all is well then I would let it ride. That may be a manual for an older model before they had an open elbow "durso-ish" design. Other than that IDK, mine is silent.

Do you use the air intake control valve that is attached to the pump? Where is your foam level adjustment pipe at, closer to open or closed?

I don't really follow the highlighted part. Any examples?

[ErikH]

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x315/erikharrison/Fish/Cuttle%20Tank/Hole.jpg

There's the open elbow. The top is completely open to let air escape. I would call ER and double check with them, but both of my ERs have the outlets submerged.

The air is wide open, and the water level is very close to closed to keep the water high up in the skimmer body.

[labrown]

Ah, yes mine does have an open elbow. I guess I could just try it and see if my skimmer goes haywire.