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View Full Version : Will Weldon work on PVC?



Mr_Cool
Tue, 8th Jul 2008, 03:02 PM
I know I can use silicone, but I'd like to have a more permanent, harder bond. Anyone know if this works?

LoneStar
Tue, 8th Jul 2008, 03:05 PM
What are you attaching to the pvc? Acylic? Plastic?

Weld on #40 can bond acylic to pvc. Its the two part epoxy style. Most stores do not carry it locally so you probably have to buy it online. www.craftics.com sells it

Mr_Cool
Tue, 8th Jul 2008, 05:24 PM
Forget it. I wanted to bond PVC to PVC. But, I got another idea. Thanks anyway!

subsailor
Tue, 8th Jul 2008, 05:36 PM
? why not just use pvc glue?

profntbtr
Tue, 8th Jul 2008, 05:49 PM
i can't say enough good stuff about wet n' fast from weld-onsets fast and you can run water through it after only 10-15 minutes
don't use the stuff you get from home depot, oatey i think it is, i've had difficulty with that

profntbtr
Tue, 8th Jul 2008, 05:50 PM
if you are in san antonio they carry it at ferguson plumbing supply off nakoma

Mr_Cool
Tue, 8th Jul 2008, 05:59 PM
Well, I drilled a hole in a piece of PVC that is about 1/8 of an inch bigger diameter than the elbow I'm inserting into it. This leaves about a 1/16 inch gap all the way around. I know that Weldon #16 can "fill" gaps when used with acrylic. I was just wondering if I could do the same with the PVC. I wanted to have a pretty strong bond so that the inlet pipe would not move so much. I decided to just zip-tie the inlet pipe in place so that it won't move. Then, I can just put a bead of silicone around the elbow to seal the small gap. I know it won't look pretty, but I'm pretty sure it will work.

I'm trying to make a homemade "media reactor." I've use the Hiatt Method before, and had pretty good results with it. But, when I upgraded to a bigger tank, I took it off the system. I'm going to try it again and see what happens.

LoneStar
Tue, 8th Jul 2008, 06:39 PM
Weld On #16 will not hold pvc to pvc

captexas
Tue, 8th Jul 2008, 06:56 PM
Silicone may hold for alittle while, but if it's an area that will have any pressure on it or be flexing around when you move it, I wouldn't risk it. PVC is too cheap to not just go buy a new piece and redrill it than to risk getting water all over the place. Of course if this reactor will sit in your sump, then it leaking slightly into the sump isn't a big deal other than lessening the pressure inside the reactor and it's possibly filtering affect.

Weldon #40 would be the second best bet besides replacing the part, but it's not common locally and it's a bit more involved to mix/work with.

Mr_Cool
Tue, 8th Jul 2008, 09:45 PM
It will sit inside the sump. Basically, my drain line will come straight down into the sump. There will be a pipe that turns 90 degrees into the 4 in. PVC pipe. Inside the PVC pipe, it will turn another 90 degrees back up. The pipe inside the 4 in. PVC pipe will be capped and drilled with a bunch of holes (smaller than the carbon pieces, of course) so that there will not be any back pressure. I'm going to put the Hiatt carbon (Tri-based, or something) with the Right Now bacteria inside the 4 in. PVC. My plan is to leave the 4 in. PVC UNcapped so that the water can just pass out through the top. But, if there's too much water velocity and the carbon is pushed by the water over the top of the 4 in. PVC, then I'll have to cap it and drill a bunch of holes in the cap to let the water escape.

I want to let the water run through the whole cylinder of carbon before it is returned to the tank. But, I need to be able to disconnect the PVC cylinder from the drain line in order to periodically rinse the carbon. Whether the gap is "filled" with silicone or not probably won't make that much difference, though.

Anyone have any thoughts?