Log in

View Full Version : what does this mean on cranberry milli?



bigmoe21
Sat, 5th Jul 2008, 04:20 PM
hopefully this isnt the stn or rtn thing..not sure so appreciate the help
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc47/bigmoe21/stnorrtn.jpg

Jonthefishguy
Sat, 5th Jul 2008, 04:34 PM
Post deleted.

JimD
Sat, 5th Jul 2008, 06:06 PM
...
Looks like it might be acro eating flatworms, hobogato had them a while back, maybe he'll ring in with some comparison pics. For now, I suggest putting it in a QT tank away from other acros if possible.

aquasport24
Sat, 5th Jul 2008, 06:13 PM
Treat it ,then cut the top portion and throw the bad bottom part away.

fjr_wertheimber
Sat, 5th Jul 2008, 07:08 PM
Looks like AEFW to me, but then I could be wrong.

clone
Sat, 5th Jul 2008, 10:46 PM
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=858834
maybe that can help
i hope its not but now you can read up and get the knowledg anyway

hobogato
Sat, 5th Jul 2008, 10:59 PM
actually moe, it doesnt look like AEFW damage to me. can you see small circular bite marks anywhere on it as pictured below?
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/hobogato/AEFW/AEFW.jpg
hate that picture! luckily it has been a year and a half since i have seen that in my tank.....

hobogato
Sat, 5th Jul 2008, 11:01 PM
i agree with aquasport on what to do however, and dip everything coming in from now on - you dont want to go thru what i did (http://maast.org/forums/showthread.php?t=34799)......

bigmoe21
Sun, 6th Jul 2008, 12:17 AM
so its actually an acopora? or do the worms eat everything? ok thanks for the responses ill read up on it...it doesnt appear to be circular at all..because theres still like one or two polyps where the white is..idk

JeffCo
Sun, 6th Jul 2008, 12:31 AM
It's not AEFW, was this the frag you got from me?
The marks that are about 1/4 inch from the bottom, if these were there when you got it from me, it's probably tool marks where I tried to get it with the cutters. the part on the bottom looks like it's starting to recede because it's not happy. Have you checked your ALK?

bigmoe21
Sun, 6th Jul 2008, 12:43 AM
yup its the one i got from you..but the white the 1/4" up wasnt there the first day..there were polyps everywhere i believe but i couldve looked wrong..not sure..and to the alk..no i havent will do so tomorrow..

Jonthefishguy
Sun, 6th Jul 2008, 08:16 AM
After sharing your pic around, it has come to conclusion that if there are no signs of "bug bites", or no signs protozoans are around, and the alk is in check, it possibly fell victim to a bacterial infection (RTN) which is more common than people realize with acros. This is something that has been puzzling the aquarist for sometime now. From this point on, Iodine dips would be beneficial for corals being added in your tank but even this is not a guarantee. It is only preventative measure and does not always work. Take careful note that NOT ALL corals can be dipped. The manufacture should advise on the box which ones cannot. As for the piece you have now, cut 1/2 to 3/4" above the infection dip it in lugol's or similar product and do not re-adhere the piece to anything at this time. Monitor the frag for a while to make sure it isnt spreading to the new piece. If the piece looks good after 1 month, you can then re-adhere it to a plug or rock. I will also advise that if you reglue your piece using GELGLUE, the glue dries hot, so care should be taken when waiting for it to dry. The glue forms a coat on the outer part within 30 seconds to a minute and can then be placed into the water. It will cool down the glue and the glue will harden.

DrMark
Sun, 6th Jul 2008, 09:39 AM
Good advice, John, especially about the glue heating as it cures.
mark

bigmoe21
Sun, 6th Jul 2008, 06:01 PM
i just got a salifert alk test kit..and i think im following the directions right but the vile wont turn orange or pink..can someone help..thanks

TinyTanker
Sun, 6th Jul 2008, 07:53 PM
Its your levels, I had the same thing occur, temp spike and phosphate and silicate presence just stresses the coral. Especially if its new to your tank. Change out phosguard and get a phos sheet, and new carbon, also if you want just cause do a 15 % water change. I do that. When my tank did that everytime, it was from a temp spike or something diying in the tank

bigmoe21
Sun, 6th Jul 2008, 09:46 PM
with the salifert kit..im doing it right i believe..swirling after each drop of the 1ml..does this mean my alk is either too high or too low out of range?

Bill S
Mon, 7th Jul 2008, 12:04 AM
The Salifert kit is straightforward. Add 2 drops of reagent to your water sample, then drip in the 2nd reagent. It should go from blue to pink at some point in time.

However, if you've recently added anything, like anhydrous baking soda, you'll need to give the tank 24 hours to "rebound" before testing. The alk spikes after addition, and then settles back down to "real" levels.

Richard
Mon, 7th Jul 2008, 06:38 PM
You might want to spend some time looking around your tank late at night with a flashlight. Sometimes rock/gorilla crabs or other unwanted hitchhikers can cause similar damage. It doesn't look like typical RTN to me, more like an injury with some secondary bacterial loss.

bigmoe21
Tue, 8th Jul 2008, 03:55 PM
ok well my alk is seriously high 14.7dkh...how do i lower it?

TinyTanker
Tue, 8th Jul 2008, 04:21 PM
check your levels and watch your calc reactor, water parameters when changed or if you didnt acclimate the piece can cause that, i have seen it a hundred times.

TinyTanker
Wed, 9th Jul 2008, 11:25 AM
adjust your effluent, and also adjust the water by doing a water change with buffer that will lower the alk. DONT LOWER IT TOO FAST, THE DROP CAN SLAP LIVESTOCK UPSIDE THEIR HEAD giving them whiplash and sending them into post stress, that sometimes wont show for a while.

When you do water topoff of RO use a reliable RO source and also prime and buff the water in accordance to the amount added. BUFF and PRIME will shock the system to the least