Aquacontroller Programming

[princer7]

My programming for pumps, lights, etc. got blown away on my Aquacontroller Jr. this morning. Somehow my husband deleted it and then tried to 'fix' it. :at_wits_end: Anyone like to share how they have theirs programmed with the code?

Here is what I had running.

- Halide #1
- Halide #2
- Refugium light
- Combined Other Lights (Cichlid tank & Biocube)
- Sump pump
- Powerheads & Skimmer
- Heater
- Chiller
- pH probe for Ca Reactor

[Dozer]

I just sold mine so I don't have it anymore or I would tell you exactly, but it's pretty easy to set up. Mine was a little different than yours because I didn't have my main lights or my pumps on it, and no chiller. Do you know the settings that you want (when the lights come on/off, when the heater comes on/off, etc) and you are just looking for help with the actual programming, or are you looking for suggestions on what settings to do?

[Bill S]

The manual is online - or was last time I checked at www.neptunesys.com (http://www.neptunesys.com)

[princer7]

Mostly looking for suggestions to make it work most efficiently. Never use the "init all" code or it will reset everything to factory defaults. :confused:

[Dozer]

check out the Neptune forum over at RC. Some great information over there. I kept mine really simple so I don't have any great tips. The only thing I would say is try not to have the heater and chiller constantly butting heads. Do you know what I mean? I like to leave some space in-between when the heater would go on vs. when the chiller goes on. I've seen some people set theirs up so that if the temp hits 80 the heater switches off, and if the tank hits 80.5 the chiller comes on. Then the chiller shuts off at 80, but now the heater is already switching on. That kind of thing. Leave a few degrees in there. JMHO, but I don't think a few degrees temp. swing is a problem- and it's less energy cost and less wear and tear on the equipment when heater and chiller aren't constantly going on and off...