Lighting People?

[opium89]

So where's my lighting peeps? Wife wants a canopy on her new planted freshwater tank. What do I need to set her up with as far as lights go? I am thinking a nice set of T5s but I have never ventured into retrofits and canopy light so I need a little pointing in the right direction. What kits are good? What am I going to need? Any info appreciated!

[opium89]

Would this be a good option for about $220

http://www.aquacave.com/36-2-lamp-complete-t-5-brretrofit-kit-by-icecap-1843.html

Looks like to TEK kit is only about $100 or so.

http://www.aquacave.com/tek-2-t5-retro-kit-36br-2-x-39w-lampsbr-by-sunlight-supply-696.html

Is there a huge advantage to going with the IceCap kits?

[Paul28]

Go with the icecap it will overdrive the bulbs

[opium89]

Go with the icecap it will overdrive the bulbs

I have absolutely no idea what this means. Why would I want to "overdrive my bulbs"? And why should I spend an extra $120 so I could indeed "overdrive my bulbs"?

:lightbulb: O_^_0 <---Me overdriving my bulb.

[caferacermike]

Because overdriving them creates more PAR. A brighter bulb. Why spend another $120? Because Icecap is worth it.

The bigger better question I cannot believe has not been asked, see it's funny to watch people toss out answers to questions they do not know, what size tank? Dimensions? What are the plans of the tank, IE: CO2, what type of plant, fish? All of these could help make a better decision. Examples, some plants like Anubias can grow well in lower light situations, those of T12-5. Other plants, generally with the color red, must be grown under halide, 10K or less. Things like the depth of the tank can quickly influence what type of lighting is necessary.

With plants most any tank 16" or less in depth I'd choose T5 (but remember it takes lot of them, not just 2). If the tank was a lot deeper than that and had plants needing a lot of light, halide would be my only choice.

You do have one other option with a freshwater planted tank that you don't see mentioned with reefers, sodium vapor or mercury bulbs. They are much cheaper than halide but do not offer any color spectrum. Basically a dull yellow is all you'll get.

I'd give the very nice folks at Texas Hydroponics a call as this is what they are in business for.

[opium89]

Now we're getting somewhere! Tank is 36x18x20 (50 gallons) and the types pf plants will be mostly Glossostigma and Java Fern. As for fishes, she currently has about 15 cardinals, 3 angelfish and a few corys in a 20 gallon. We plan on adding some rams once the new tank is setup. I want to try and use T-5s if at all possible. I seem to keep getting conflicting information as to how much wattage I am actually going to need. Two bulbs are coming in at 78 watts which from some sites I have read is plenty if I am using if T5HO. At this point, I have read anywhere from .3 - 5 watts per gallon so imagine my utter confusion! We do plan on running some CO2 as it appears to be necessary with the Glosso...

I would be interested to hear some other suggestions for plants. Are there any good substitutes for Glosso to make a good ground cover? Perhaps something that is easier to maintain?

[caferacermike]

From the bottom up I'd start with ribbon style substrate heaters, a laterite or flourite substrate, lot's of driftwood (it'll keep the water soft and the PH low for the fish you listed), An Eheim 2215 or 2217 cannister filter (place some Peat in the mix), a light system with either 4 T5's the length of the system mixed between 6.5 and 12K, or 2 150/175 halides around 7-10K.

No sumps. Little to zero surface movement. The goal here is to trap as much CO2 as possible into the tank. Having an exchange will vent off CO2 and exchange it for fresh O2. Normally a planted tank has zero or very few fish. Your list was long enough that I'd think the fish could generate all the CO2, Phos, and Nitrogen needed to keep the tank running. Using a substrate heater allows the water to rise from the roots up, drawing cool water to the roots. The cool water brings fresh supplies of fertilizer with it.

[opium89]

If I get you right, are you saying I wont need a CO2 tank because of the fish load? Assuming of course I can trap the existing CO2 in the tank? I am also assuming that if the circulation is kept to a minimum then the I will be relying on the plants for most of the oxygen the fish need..Is my thinking correct?

[RayAllen]

Id sujjest you registering at plantedtank.net as well. Obviously they will be more fimiliar and give you several more answers. Im also a member there and its a great site.

[opium89]

Thanks Ray, I will check it out.