View Full Version : HELP... My DIY stand does not seem stable.
Hanali
Tue, 18th Dec 2007, 01:56 AM
Ok so all the planning and all and Now I DO NOT TRUST MY STAND. It is top heavy and anyone touching it makes it wobble some. I love the size and all and to some point this is all a REAL DUH REALLY moment, but did not expect this. Changing lights may cause me to tip it or fixing the live rock...
Anyone out there got any ideas how to stabilize it now that it is up?
Here are some pics... any help would make me feel better.
tomanero
Tue, 18th Dec 2007, 04:53 AM
It's hard to see the back of the stand but to stabilize it you need to support it side-to-side, front to back.
It looks like there are only uprights supporting the weight top to bottom.
A wood "X" drilled into the four back corners will stabilize it side to side.
Add one piece of wood to each side section (cut the ends at 45 degrees)
Mount each from the top corner to the opposite bottom corner on each side of the tank.
Now you're stable.
Let me know if you have any questions.
hobogato
Tue, 18th Dec 2007, 07:59 AM
steve is exactly right on the lateral support. since you were going to skin it anyway, you may want to go ahead and do that. the plywood (or what ever wood you skin it with) on the sides and front will give it the lateral support it needs there. you may want to add some bracing as steve suggested on the back or a sheet of plywood there too.
Bill S
Tue, 18th Dec 2007, 08:30 AM
Dittos on either the bracing or skinning. It will make a huge difference.
ou812pezz
Tue, 18th Dec 2007, 09:35 AM
does it wobble side to side or back and forth? If side to side then bracing is required. Skirting as mentioned will help with as well. If back and forth then you need to expand the base. By expanding the base, I mean, add on a lip to the bottom of the stand with 2X6's (flat on the floor) and trim it with a 2X4.It creates a pyramid affect. The wider the base the more stable the stand.
l base of stand
[ l 2x4 vetical
[___l 2x6 flat
hope that helps
coraline79
Tue, 18th Dec 2007, 11:02 AM
From the side view you tank looks top heavy. The feet are in negative alignment with the sides of the tank. All of the lateral weight is balanced across that plain. I agree with one of the above post a little. you need to increase the "stance". move the feet out to the edges or get bigger blocks of wood for feet. If you have wobbling due to the actual structure. The cleanest looking thing to do is route a piece of half inch ply into your rear legs. This will give the stand a very good amount of stability. This is the same idea used in the flimsy target bookshelves. they give you a piece of press board to nail in with tacks to the back, and stabilizes it. Yours would be a robust version of this.
Hanali
Tue, 18th Dec 2007, 01:21 PM
Yeah it is front to back wobble.
So here is the question. It is sitting on the floor right now with the full tank weight on it pressed tightly into the carpet. Do I need to remove the pressure to attach more to it?
Today I may pickup a sump and may drain a ton of the water to stack 2x6's under it, like a tower-computers feet.
If I do not require that kind of pressure though... well it just plain seems easier to apply the skins now.
RayAllen
Tue, 18th Dec 2007, 01:24 PM
I think it would be best to remove the tank and then make the mods. Only been a day so it will not hurt anything. The carpet will just make it a little more difficult to get accurate measurments, but it may be doable.
Hanali
Tue, 18th Dec 2007, 01:43 PM
Yeah I am thinking that maybe best too.
Sigh... just has to stay up till after work when I have help.
BIGBIRD123
Tue, 18th Dec 2007, 09:22 PM
Yeah I am thinking that maybe best too.
Sigh... just has to stay up till after work when I have help.
Small sacrifices now will make your tank more secure and alleviate the stress of knowing if it will be stable or not...this will make for more "enjoyable" viewing of your tanks progression.
Welcome and Happy Reefin'..
Steve
Hanali
Wed, 19th Dec 2007, 01:35 AM
THANKS GUYS!
It is more stable now. Rudy from the group came by and gave it a look. He gave me some ideas and gave it a push to see how bad it was. He seemed pretty sure it was really safe and just me over thinking. Also gave me some ideas how to make it more stable without bringing it down.
I did 1 out of the 3 ideas and it is already a hair more stable. Tomorrow I will attach it to the wall.
Thanks for all the help from everyone here.
tomanero
Wed, 19th Dec 2007, 10:58 AM
Rudi?
Who's Rudi?
LOL
Hanali
Wed, 19th Dec 2007, 12:18 PM
Doh! Kind of bad with names. Called Rudy about a sump. Steve.
Ops. :)
razermouse
Sun, 23rd Dec 2007, 01:19 PM
New pictures?
Hanali
Sun, 23rd Dec 2007, 10:29 PM
This is the tank. There seems to be some issues with it right now. Gravity is 1.026 and there was an ammonia ****e but things seem to be going down. Here was yesterdays readings.
PH: Odd reading
nitrate: 10
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: .25
Gravity: 1.026
Will do another reading later tonight.
erikharrison
Mon, 24th Dec 2007, 10:37 AM
If possible you should add about another 2" of sand to your fuge! It will help with NNR. Natural Nitrate Reduction
Double check your salinity with a fishy store.
razermouse
Mon, 24th Dec 2007, 12:28 PM
I highly recommend that you invest in a true refractometer. They actually aren't that expensive and they accurately measure salinity and specific gravity compared to hydrometers. I do not trust those... This is where I bought mine:
http://www.northcoastmarines.com/refractometers.htm
Bill S
Mon, 24th Dec 2007, 01:00 PM
Steve,
I'm sorry - and I'm really not trying to be rude here - but I disagree with you on refractometers. Just search the posts here about some REALLY GOOD reefers losing significant livestock from inaccurate refractometers. While they are a great tool, they DO need to be regularly calibrated AND matched to a good quality, laboratory grade floating hydrometer. Just 'cause you calibrate them to calibration solution doesn't make them right (is the solution right???). Using solely a refractometer is good way to get in trouble.
Do they occasionally break? Yup. So buy 2. They are about $20, and as long as you use a consistent water temperature, they are ALWAYS accurate. Unlike ALL of the other tools for measuring salinity, unless you break them (and that's kind of obvious), they work and they are accurate.
Now, on the other hand, swing arms are less than worthless. 'Cause you'll never know when they sloooowwwwly decide to go south.
razermouse
Mon, 24th Dec 2007, 01:11 PM
Bill,
No offense taken! The swing arm floating hydrometers are the only ones that I've used (bought from the LFS). Can you recommend where to buy a good quality floating hydrometer?
Bill S
Tue, 25th Dec 2007, 10:44 PM
Most decent LFSs offer have decent ones. Just look for the BIG ones.
I'm GENERALLY a guy that 1) embraces technology, but, when it comes to this hobby I'm more prone to 2) simplicity and redundancy. Just about EVERYONE who has been in this hobby for any period of time has done something drastic that was REALLY, REALLY STUPID! You know, the realization that is followed by: "what _________ was I THINKING!".
Hanali
Wed, 26th Dec 2007, 02:34 AM
The salinity did drop a good deal the next time I checked it. My hardest time is reading the ammonia though... it is all the same shade of green to me.
Anyway new readings as of yesterday.
PH: 8.4ish
Nitrate: 10
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: .25
Gravity: 1.022
I do need to add more sand. Am going to purchase 2lb of grunge after the holidays.
Also am going to buy that hydrometer that sits in the sump from River City.
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