Custom Stand and Sump/'fuge question

[jrnannery]

Ok, I need to know who can build custom stands that will be able to incorporate a space beneath for a combo sump/fuge. I am looking for a very nice finish, something close to furniture quality. I will be available to do any grunt work like sanding, staining, polishing, etc.

The tank i am looking at is a taller tank, so I would also like to get a hood constructed. If you arei nterested in doing it, and need more info, please get in touch with me.

Now, here is the part of this that keeps it in "General," rather than "Want to Buy"...What size sump is appropriate for a 65-75 gallon tank? Your "drain" tube from the tank drains into an area that is filled with live rock rubble...what keeps that area from clogging full of junk and becoming a nitrate factory? Is it better to drill the back of a tank, or use a "weir" http://www.melevsreef.com/sump.html?

This will be my first "real" tank - not an all-inclusive nano. I would appreciate all the help I can get.

[jrnannery]

Me again...I have another question!!! When do calcium reactors and kalk reactors and nuclear reactors and all that stuff become important, or necessary, or...whatever?

[hobogato]

richard, i build all of the above, i charge material cost X 2.5. lmk if interested.

[jrnannery]

Thanks Ace! I am waiting to find out the dimensions on the tank, whether it is a reef ready, etc. When i do, I will let you know.

Care to have a go at the questions? :innocent

[hobogato]

sure... drill it. dont use an overflow box, they are a flood waiting to happen. i would go with a calfo style overflow, so the tank will be drilled on the back with a horizontal overflow box in the top of the tank for the water to spill over and go down the drain. not sure what the consensus is in the reefing world, but i have about 10X - 15X turnover of tank volume thru the sump per hour (depends on if you subtract for lr and sand). that would mean you will need a pump that does 700 gph after head pressure (for submersible, i would use a mag9). i would also recommend that you have the tank drilled with two holes for drains with each one large enough to handle the entire amount of flow from your return pump, this will prevent floods if a snail or something else blocks one of the drains.

as far as the live rock rubble becoming a nitrate trap, as long as the flow of the water goes thru the LR and not just over it, that should not be a problem. when i build sumps, i have the water that drains in to the first section (where the LR rubble will be) flow under a baffle and then over another baffle to get to the next section. this keeps the water volume in that section constant but allows the water to flow all the way thru the rock.

as far as size of sump/fuge - the bigger the better. use as much space as you can.

calc and kalk reactors are really convenience items. however, they can keep your tank more stable as you start to waiver in your diligence in testing alk/calc and adding buffer and calc supplements (this will be more of an issue once your coral load is high and they are growing)

[jrnannery]

Is it generally cheaper to have a "standard" reef-ready tank built, or to buy one from the LFS? I could research that one on my own, but I don't know who builds tanks. A check of our sponsors was unproductive.

[hobogato]

depends on the builder and brand tank at the LFS.