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View Full Version : Calfo on the 240 gal.



SACoastie
Tue, 20th Mar 2007, 11:41 PM
I have changed my mine after doing some investigating on the calfo setup and reading your responses. I decided it would be worth it to give up some space in the back of the tank for the extra tank space inside.

Anyway I'm having some problems figuring out how to do the returns. The tank is eurobraced with I think like 3 or 4 of glass around the top so I think the u-tube returns wont fit over. Would I then need to get the Loc-line fittings? Also in order to minimize 90 degree fittings I was hoping to go with all vinyl tubing (is this possible or am I crazy). The pump I'm using is the Coralife Turbo Sea1090 with a 1" output. If anything maybe someone could send me some pics of theirs to get an idea where to start (if its possible).

Also I just realized, what kind of elbows do I need for the return to sump on the bulkhead? And what kind of bulkhead fittings? 1" MPT to slip?
Thanks - James

brewercm
Wed, 21st Mar 2007, 09:17 AM
You could use the tubing that they use for hot tubs plumbing. It's somewhat flexible and can be glued to standard PVC fittings. That's what I'm going to be getting for my return line.
Somebody chime in with the name, I'm having an alzheimers moment. :unsure

dwdenny
Wed, 21st Mar 2007, 09:18 AM
spaflex tubing

Bill S
Wed, 21st Mar 2007, 09:36 AM
You aren't going to drill the back for the Calfo?

SACoastie
Wed, 21st Mar 2007, 11:33 AM
Yes I will have the back drilled for the overflows (2) to the sump. So I guess what I need to do is drill two more for the returns. I just don't know what to install for the returns i.e. 1" bulkhead fittings, 1 1/4" bulkhead, MPT outside, FPT inside?

Oh and I already have the spaflew tubing going to the sump. Thanks - James

hobogato
Wed, 21st Mar 2007, 01:11 PM
i wouldnt drill for the return lines, it is just as easy and effective to run up and over the edge of the tank with pvc and locline extensions.

SACoastie
Thu, 22nd Mar 2007, 09:05 AM
Great I'll go with that. Thanks

Ram_Puppy
Thu, 22nd Mar 2007, 09:22 AM
and wouldn't it suck to be on the 3rd or 4th hole and -poof- a crack forms. I cringe at the thought. :(

Bill S
Thu, 22nd Mar 2007, 12:45 PM
Yup. I'd put 2 holes, EACH big enough to handle the entire flow.

SACoastie
Fri, 23rd Mar 2007, 11:15 AM
Should I used treated lumber on the support frame in the stand, or is that overkill? And would I use some kind of thin padding under the stand to prevent damage to my wood floor (probly a dumb question)?

Ram_Puppy
Fri, 23rd Mar 2007, 11:38 AM
coastie, use what you feel is going to make you feel secure.

my 120 i build w/ 2x6 treated lumber for the frame of the stand, then paneled it out in oak plywood. it was massive massive overkill, but it made the wife feel good.

Bill S
Fri, 23rd Mar 2007, 12:13 PM
In general, I'd avoid treated lumber anywhere that could contaminate your tank or sump. It's not any stronger, it just resists rot better. You might consider it for the bottom framing. Loads on stands are compression loads carried by the columns - and 2x4s are amazingly stout for that. My stand, built by Oceanic, has only 8 2x4 columns. A short 2x4 column - say 2 feet or less - has a compression strength of over 2 tons!

SACoastie
Fri, 23rd Mar 2007, 10:10 PM
Awesome info Bill. Will use it in the build. Thanks for the reply.

Ram I am faced with your same issue. I have to make the wife happy. I had to promise to keep it full of water in the garage for about 5 days B4 bringing it into the house LOL. Anyway I'm gonna make it stout....very stout. Thanks 4 the feedback. - James