Lighting?

[FireWater]

I am so lost. I am wanting to upgrade to my new 90g and am currently researching lighting systems. I do not plan to run anymore sps than the two that I have, it will contain mostly zoos, softies, and lps. Anyway there is power compact that is good only to a certain depth, T5's, VHO, MH. Then when I think I am close to getting that figured out they throw different watt T5's, de and se MH's and 150 to 400 watt fixtures of different ratings. WHAT?! How am I going to pick the right one? The only things I know for sure is I am confused, pc's are probably not enough, I want a retro kit, worried about too much and everyone has a different opinion.

[Ross]

sounds like me with the stereo stuff! I'd seriously recomend going with metal halide, you will not regret it. Like you told me, spending a little more up front is better in the long run. You will be able to keep anything with the mh, and you will probably be hooked on sps before too long...I'd go with 2x250w SE metal halides, you will be able to keep anything you want and it wont break the bank.

[FireWater]

What about de's running cooler? truth or myth

[Ross]

truth, there brighter also. but more expensive.

[matt]

Actually you'll find if you go to Sanjay's site that many mogule base bulbs do at least as well as DE bulbs in PAR, especially with the same ballast, so the idea of DE being "brighter" is in fact a myth. IMO the nice thing about DE bulbs is the mini pendent which is an attractive and clean way of hanging lights over an open top tank. Plus, I really like the color of the phoenix 14K bulb, which only comes in DE.

That said, I'd agree with Ross that MH lighting is the way to go. Since it's a point source light, you get very nice glitter lines and shadows that mimick sunlight in the water. Light quality, more than any other single thing, is responsible for what our tanks look like and to me MH light is simply more beautiful than any kind of florescent.

I assume your 90 gal is a 4ft tank, like a 75 only taller? Just to offer some unsolicited advice, consider moving to a 120; it's also 4ft but 2ft front to back. Then you have 2 "cubes" side by side which you could light with 250W bulbs, either mini pendent DE or those great lumenarc reflectors with mogule bulbs.

[caferacermike]

Oh it is so confusing isn't it? I have a 75g that is "overlit". A friend of mine has a 100g with the same wattage. I'll break down what we run and are both extremely happy.

75g.

2x250w 14K pheonix DE running on Icecap ballasts with 2x 96w 20K actinics power compact. My pc's come on for 2 hours before my halides and stay on during the 6 hours of halide. They stay on another 2 hours after the halides go out. About 10wpg for at least 6 hours.

100g

3x250w 15K DE on Advanced ballasts with 4x 65w 20K PC's. 12 hour light schedule with halides on for about 9 hours. again about 10wpg.

One of the key things I've read about the halides is that they have a pulse to them as the light intensity fluctuates. This happens constantly while running. Somehting about this pulsing simulates natural sunlight and encourages growth.

Now I'm getting a 400g tank. I seriously cannot afford 4,000w per hour of lighting to simulate my current set up. I've been researching a lot about T5's as they are claimed to be about 4 times more intense than MH watt for watt. Supposedly a 54w T5 is comparable to 1 250w halide. I cannot back up that claim as it is only what I've read here and there. As a compromise I still intend to run 3x400w SE in lumenarc reflectors with about 300w T5 to fill in the gaps.


De's are not so much brighter, but the reflector designs are so much better and that the bulbs are smaller you can fit more fixtures in your tank.

[FireWater]

So if I go with the MH's, whether the se's or de's, what about supplemental lighting? Pc or T5 for the actinics? I guess 2-250W MH is enough for the 90g or 120g. Thank you for the responses guys. I did not know where else to go with help for this one. It seems just about every store had a different choice and experience.

[caferacermike]

If it were me spending my money I'd shoot for 2x250 DE 10-14K with actinic supplements from T5 or PC. Send a PM to KyleV as he is really enjoying his new fixture and really saved some cheese on it.

[LoneStar]

So if I go with the MH's, whether the se's or de's, what about supplemental lighting? Pc or T5 for the actinics?


You may or may not need supplemental lighting depending on the spectrum of the bulb you choose. 10k bulbs you will probably need some actinic support due to the more 'yellow' the color looks. 12k and higher, the bulbs put off more of a 'blue' hue. Now that was just a generic description of bulb color and it does vary from brand to brand. If you are going to add acticnic support, I've always been a fan of VHOs. T5's are the new technology and are really starting to outperform VHOs.



I guess 2-250W MH is enough for the 90g or 120g.


That should work ok. Just make sure you get GOOD reflectors. You want as much of your light focused downwards to your tank.

[caferacermike]

I only run supplemental lighting for electrical savings. I don't want to run my halides for 10 hours or more per day. I've also read that 6 hours is the most efficient amount of time that a coral can synthesize light. I run PC's so I can see my tank and not pay for exccessive electricity.

[LoneStar]

I've also read that 6 hours is the most efficient amount of time that a coral can synthesize light. I run PC's so I can see my tank and not pay for exccessive electricity.


Ditto on that. I ran my halides for only 7 hours. I had the VHOs on at night so I could actually see the tank after I got home late!

[Ross]

I have a single 250w bulb with no supplementation at all and it looks great. If you do get actinics though i'd get vhos.

[FireWater]

Thanks again everyone. Looks like I got some shopping around to do. Any advice on where to start looking for retro fit kits?

[Ross]

www.hellolights.com

they have killer prices and quality stuff, i have ordered alot from them and everything has been awesome!

[caferacermike]

I second hello lights.

[FireWater]

OK, One day wasted sitting in front of the computer. One question I forgot to ask is about the heat factor of the MH's. Also instead of the 2-250 watt fixtures what about 2-150 or 2-175 watters? Sorry about all the questions I just want to be sure to try and do it right from the start instead of posting later about troubles.

[Ross]

As long as the bulbs are like 8in off the water, you should be fine. A fan or two will help out alot! You could do 150 or 175 but the intensity of the 250s is MUCH more

[matt]

The best deal I've seen in a while is at the place that makes the lumenarc reflectors; I think it's reefexotics.com or something like that. You can get a lumenarc with socket and a M58 ballast for well under $200 if I remember right. The lumenarc reflectors are by far the best available. If you can find Sanjay Joshi's reef lighting website, you can search his articles and find a comparative test of reflectors. The lumenarc (called diamond light in the article) far out performed other reflectors.

[caferacermike]

175's are becoming obsolete. Even Sanjay refuses to test them.

[FireWater]

Thanks again for the help everyone. I have some good info to go through to help my decisions.

[LoneStar]

The best deal I've seen in a while is at the place that makes the lumenarc reflectors; I think it's reefexotics.com or something like that.


I second the Lumenarcs! Those are the ones I'm going to get. I've heard nothing but good things from them. Well worth the extra $50 as compared to a spider reflector.

[Ross]

There 269 for one with the bulb...quite a bit more. They are nice though, i have one over my tank and i love it.

[LoneStar]

The $200 estimate is sans bulb ;)

[Ross]

where did you find that price at? i went to www.reefexotics.com and looked in the parabolic retro fit part...is that right?

[caferacermike]

They are about $150 or less at coralreefbazaar. Fredric sponsors us. http://coralreefbazaar.com/store.php?cPath=43_48_57


OOPS, edited because I noticed you were saying WITH ballast.