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hoho19
Sun, 29th Jan 2006, 06:43 PM
Can I get everybody's opinion on the setup of my fuge/sump and main tank.

These pictures are pretty big so I'm going to link them. I couldn't figure out how to use my gallery so I'll link them from my home computer.

Front view of the tank
Marked to show what's what (http://puddleglum.hohimer.us/reef/fronta.jpg)
original for reference (http://puddleglum.hohimer.us/reef/front.jpg)

Overhead view of the tank
Marked to show what's what (http://puddleglum.hohimer.us/reef/overheada.jpg)
original for reference (http://puddleglum.hohimer.us/reef/overhead.jpg)

Eyelevel view of the tank
Marked to show what's what (http://puddleglum.hohimer.us/reef/eyelevela.jpg)
original for reference (http://puddleglum.hohimer.us/reef/eyelevel.jpg)

Sump (A modded 10 gallon tank..don't mind the silicone job..it was my first :D)
original for reference (http://puddleglum.hohimer.us/reef/sump.jpg)

Sump from the top
Marked to show what's what (http://puddleglum.hohimer.us/reef/sumptopa.jpg)
original for reference (http://puddleglum.hohimer.us/reef/sumptop.jpg)

And finally....
A view of it all put together (http://puddleglum.hohimer.us/reef/whole_tank.jpg)

Thank you to everybody that has ever posted on the MAAST Forums. This was designed by looking at other peoples ideas.

Now for the fish!!!! :D

NaCl_H2O
Sun, 29th Jan 2006, 08:03 PM
WOW, that's a lot of PVC on a small tank :o

I assume the line off the closed loop pump going to the right is for some "future" need ... or maybe for draining/water change? You realize you will need to prime that closed loop pump to get it going, and it may not restart after a power outage.

Also, I don't think I understand the "Drain" plumbing. Water won't travel upward and over to the sump, even if you get a siphon started first. Maybe tell us your thoughts on the drain plumbing?

hoho19
Sun, 29th Jan 2006, 08:30 PM
WOW, that's a lot of PVC on a small tank :o

I assume the line off the closed loop pump going to the right is for some "future" need ... or maybe for draining/water change? You realize you will need to prime that closed loop pump to get it going, and it may not restart after a power outage.


Yeah it's a drain line for water changes etc. I have already tried out the closed loop and it can be primed at top. I have tried the power outage senario by unplugging it. Restarts great. I may do some research into preventing mishaps...though there shouldn't be any water spillage because it's a closed loop. Unless the power outtage makes a hole in my PVC :P



Also, I don't think I understand the "Drain" plumbing. Water won't travel upward and over to the sump, even if you get a siphon started first. Maybe tell us your thoughts on the drain plumbing?

Hmmm. maybe I mis-interpreted some drawing some where. How does a weir work? You have a primed section .... A HA I figured out my mistake. I should make the drain like this...
http://puddleglum.hohimer.us/reef/weir.jpg

Then I can prime it. Does that look better?

NaCl_H2O
Sun, 29th Jan 2006, 08:37 PM
Hmm, I'm skeptical :unsure Your drain is based on maintaining a siphon, and that siphon keeping up with the volume of water coming in from your return pump. Similar principal to a HOB overflow, but they usualy have 2-3 "J" tubes in case one stops. Will the end of the drain in the sump be underwater? If not, your siphon will stop during a power outage.

Also, a large snail in one of those inlets will cause a flood - you should add a strainer of some type on the inlets.

Test it, and if it works ........

Bill S
Mon, 30th Jan 2006, 12:17 AM
You want your drain line to be as close to the top of the tank as possible. The higher they go, the more they tend to get bubbles/air locks in it. I have a similar set up on my 55 with a 10 gallon sump next to it. I ended up plumbing an air line into the top of my siphon and connecting it to a powerhead, which sucks out all of the accumulating air. Works well, but kind of rigged...

scuba_steveo
Mon, 30th Jan 2006, 12:27 AM
I have to give you credit for doing research and asking question before getting too far into it. Good concepts. I agree with NaCl H20 about the drain. One snail in the wrong place and you got a problem. Also, I am not clear on how the fuge gets water to it.

TheOtherGuy
Mon, 30th Jan 2006, 01:43 AM
I have to give you credit for doing research and asking question before getting too far into it. Good concepts. I agree with NaCl H20 about the drain. One snail in the wrong place and you got a problem. Also, I am not clear on how the fuge gets water to it.

And it will happen. Most likely right after you leave the house for the day or 30 seconds before you leave and you are late for work. :o ;)

GaryP
Mon, 30th Jan 2006, 05:28 AM
Murphy was a reefer.

What Steve was referring to as a weir is basically an overflow box. The little saw tooth arrangement that water flows over is called a weir. What we call an overflow box is the same thing as a weir box in industrial terminology.

hoho19
Mon, 30th Jan 2006, 09:06 AM
I have to give you credit for doing research and asking question before getting too far into it. Good concepts. I agree with NaCl H20 about the drain. One snail in the wrong place and you got a problem. Also, I am not clear on how the fuge gets water to it.

The fuge supposedly gets water diverted from the main "drain" line. In the picture of the sump top you can see it going toward the wall. The sump is what goes directly down into the 10 gallon and the fuge is towards the back with a ball valve.

hoho19
Mon, 30th Jan 2006, 09:09 AM
Thanks all for your suggestions. I'm going to play around with them. I might just end up buying an overflow box. I was so close to putting sand and rock and I just didn't want to pony up some more money, but as I've figured out that's what this hobby is about...Honey can I use a couple dollars for something for my tank....what is it this time....etc.

Oh one more thing that I want to try and I'll ask first and try after work...
Do you think a pump driven drain and a pump driven return would work better in my setup than a gravity based drain and a pump based return?

Thanks

brewercm
Mon, 30th Jan 2006, 09:29 AM
Do you think a pump driven drain and a pump driven return would work better in my setup than a gravity based drain and a pump based return?

I'd never recommend a pump driven drain. That would be almost impossible to get bot pumps working together exactly the way they are needing to. Second if one goes out or starts to slow down you will have a disaster.

A system should be designed on the fact that your drains are rated higher than your return pump. The system equals itself out then by using an overflow box that is set to have the water at a certain hight in the tank. You have a constant flow of water through your sump that is rated at whatever your pump is sending back.

Hope that makes since.

LoneStar
Mon, 30th Jan 2006, 01:21 PM
Do you think a pump driven drain and a pump driven return would work better in my setup than a gravity based drain and a pump based return?

I'd never recommend a pump driven drain. That would be almost impossible to get bot pumps working together exactly the way they are needing to. Second if one goes out or starts to slow down you will have a disaster.

A system should be designed on the fact that your drains are rated higher than your return pump. The system equals itself out then by using an overflow box that is set to have the water at a certain hight in the tank. You have a constant flow of water through your sump that is rated at whatever your pump is sending back.

Hope that makes since.

Physics will kill that idea, sorry (the pump driven idea that is). I agree with what brewercm said. You will get a constant flow if you have water pumping in and gravity flowing it out. Just make sure your drain can handle the flow from the return pump. If you pump in and then pump out, you will see that the 'pump in' pump has to push a lot harder and loses its gph flow, because of head height. The 'pump out' pump barely has to work to push the water out of the tank so it will be moving water at a different rate than its counterpart.

It would make a cool science experiment if you could equal both pumps out to their specific flow rates at different levels. ;)

LoneStar
Mon, 30th Jan 2006, 01:22 PM
You could pick up scrap acrylic fairly cheap and save money by making your own overflow box. Regal Plastics in town sells large scrap pieces for a $1 a pound, and it wouldn't take much to build one for your tank.

hammondegge
Mon, 30th Jan 2006, 01:30 PM
here ya go hobo http://www.melevsreef.com/sump.html
there is a weir style overflow diy on this page. other useful information on plumbing and sumps throughout the site. g'luck