KH?

[elm0]

What is the proper KH level for SW?
I just tested mine and according to my AP test it reads about 89.5ppm
Seems like it might be kind of low but everything else is in check, PH is about 7.5-8.0
I've lost a few livestock lately and trying to find the source

Thanks

[Richard]

That's pretty low. You should keep it around 125 to 175ppm.

[elm0]

Thanks for the info.... i thought it was low, what would cause that with out greatly affecting the PH, and what can i do to correct it

[elm0]

bump

[elm0]

could this have anything to do with the neusance algae problem i've been having?

[Richard]

could this have anything to do with the neusance algae problem i've been having?


Having a lower ph will encourage some types of nuisance algaes. Get your Alk up to 125 - 150 ppm and that will bring your ph up as long as you don't have elevated CO2 levels.

You probably have high nutrient levels, phosphate in particular, if your having a major algae problem. So you should look at those issues along with bringing up your alk. It would be nice if algae problems were always the result of one simple issue but they are usually caused by a combination of factors.

Also wouldn't be a bad idea to test your test kit against another test kit (salifert, seatest) just to make sure the AP kit is giving you a fairly accurate reading.

[elm0]

I also tested the phospate level with an AP test and it read zero, i do agree that i should have the readings tested with another test kit
how would i know if i have elevated CO2 levels and what would cause that
I've had a pretty major nuisance algae problem in this tank for a long while now, the best i can do is to pull it out manually, I got
3 lettuce nudibranch and beefed up my cleaning crew and they work day and night but the algae is out of control, the next thing i'm going to do is change my MH bulb, its about 9 months old, but its worth a try

[fishypets]

Before I hooked up my CA reactor I had a hard time keeping KH up. I found the Kent Marine Coral Builder works great and does not impact your CA that much either.

[JimD]

I would begin adding a two part balanced system like ESV's B-Ionic to get your levels where you want them, then drip kalk to keep them there. The kalk will also preciptate PO4 and may help with the algae problem. Even though its available, PO4 usually tests at zero when algae is present in the system.

[Richard]

how would i know if i have elevated CO2 levels and what would cause that


That's easy. Just check your ph in your tank and compare it to the ph of a cup of tank water aerated outside for 30 minutes. If the ph of the outdoor aerated water is higher than that of your tank then you have elevated CO2 levels in your tank. That could be from a Ca reactor, poor aeration or most commonly this time of year elevated CO2 levels in your house. For that you just need to open up the windows and get some fresh air in.

[GaryP]

Phosphate exists in two forms in water. They are meta and ortho phosphate. Your test kit only measures ortho phosphate. There is a kit for meta but its not something you will find in a LFS. Meta is the more abundant type of phosphate. Richard is correct, ortho phosphate may exist for such a short time before its used up by algae that you will not detect it with a test kit. The fish food you are adding on a daily basis may contain up to 1% phosphate by dry weight. This means that phosphate management is an ongoing thing, not a one time situation. Phosphate also acts as an inhibitor of calcification, the process by which corals grow. Phosphate control is one of the most important keys to succesful water quality management for the aquariaist.