View Full Version : DI unit
dwdenny
Tue, 22nd Mar 2005, 10:22 AM
Anyone know where I can get just a DI unit. I have a RO unit that we use for drinking water but I wanted to put a DI unit on it to make the water better. Any information would be great.
Thanks
Doug
falcam7
Tue, 22nd Mar 2005, 10:38 AM
Check Tim Marvin is the local rep for
AquaFX (Reverse Osmosis Water Filters & Test Equipment for Aquariums, Home, Office, Business, Aquaculture and Hydroponics)
I am pretty sure I can get you a DI unit.
Thanks
dwdenny
Tue, 22nd Mar 2005, 10:41 AM
thanks for the info I will ccheck with Tim
Dozer
Tue, 22nd Mar 2005, 03:43 PM
www.airwaterice.com sells add on units and a bunch of other online vendors as well. Honestly I think I'm not going to bother with DI anymore, seems to be all the problems I ever have with my water are involved with the DI somehow.
Josh- Would you mind elaborating, or if you've covered this before maybe linking to other posts where you discussed your DI problems? You got me curious now :D
eric
Tue, 22nd Mar 2005, 04:29 PM
Just the last few days there's been a lot of talk about bothering with the DI or not.
http://www.maast.org/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=10460
Dozer
Tue, 22nd Mar 2005, 06:27 PM
Great info, thanks Josh! I appreciate you bringing it up. I'm going to do some research/thinking about going with RO only.
dwdenny
Tue, 22nd Mar 2005, 09:35 PM
That is good to know as I don't have to purchase more stuff. I already have the RO unit.
OldSalty
Tue, 22nd Mar 2005, 10:11 PM
Me to, fed up with DI, dont see any diffrence expept my wallet. But if you want DI heres the place to go. www.aquaticreefsystems.com. 1 micron carbon block filters $9.99 (these are $25 at home depot) 1 micron sediment $5.99 DI cartriges $19.95. Check it out, ya wont be sorry
dan
Tue, 22nd Mar 2005, 10:20 PM
i'm doing the same. taking the DI out and replaceing with another carbon
NaCl_H2O
Tue, 22nd Mar 2005, 11:07 PM
Hey guys, I have one of those "Starts with a 'K' ends with a 'T', etc." brand RO/DI units (60g/day model). I am pushing a HUGE amount of water through mine. I top off my 700g system (I would guess 10-20g per day) AND I top off my SPA with RO/DI :D with another 50-100g per week! With RO/DI in the SPA it has had better water quality than ever before, and the amount of chlorine required is MUCH less.
Even with this HUGE volume of RO/DI, my DI cartridge does pretty good. I change it maybe every 3-4 months?
I have heard that low volume through an RO/DI is actually worse than high volume? Something about brief on/off cycles (a few gallons or less) not being good for the filters & membrane?
Anyway, I'm happy with mine. Haven't tested the TDS before the DI, but after the DI, TDS is stll at 1-2 ... I changed all the filters about 30-45 days ago.
alton
Fri, 25th Mar 2005, 03:08 PM
Go to aquariumwaterfilters.com/library they have a great article on Chloramine Removal and the effect it has on D. I. units. Its fairly easy to see why some have there D. I. unit go bad so quickly and others seem to last forever
Richard
Fri, 25th Mar 2005, 03:55 PM
Test your tap water for phosphates and nitrates. If you don't have high levels of either then there isn't a big reason to use DI IMO. Just a good quality and properly functioning RO unit will work fine IMO. I was going to just get an RO unit but as I was ordering I thought what the heck and got one with DI. I will stop using the DI cartridge once use up the extras I bought (only one left).
I have one of those "Starts with a 'K' ends with a 'T',
When I posted that I wasn't saying they didn't/couldn't work well. Just that it seems a number of people have had trouble getting the RO membrane seated correctly. I've never even seen one so I don't why that is.
AquaFx
Mon, 4th Apr 2005, 11:24 AM
Placing the carbon after membrane will reintroduce things you do not want into your water, Phosphates being the main thing.
I am trying to find out why the TDS is so high coming out the membrane Fiji2000 is giving him so much trouble.
But honestly, not not follow RO water with a carbon for your tanks. For drinking purposes, this is common, to polish the taste from the holding tank back out.
Also, if you DI are exhausting FAST, you do need to find out why, They only exhaust if there is something in the water. Therefore you do need to get rid of it with DI or some other method.
Now, we do use DOW Filmtec first run membranes, even these sometimes do not perform to specs. If this happens (that is what I think is going on with figi2000) the manufactures needs to replace them. Other things that can be to blame, are chlorine break through, this destroys a membrane and would cause the same systems.
Let me know if I can be of any more help
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